I wonder if anyone can tell me if it's easy to fix the footage counter on a regular Arri SR-2 magazine.

This is the small rotary counter on the take up side ( ...not the feed side / arm roller gauge ).

I'm guessing there's a belt between it and the plastic mag-to-camera drive gear.

Any advice would be most welcome.

Many thanks,

John S :(

Are there any recommended UK used film gear suppliers that might have these - or do I need to look on eBay? I would prefer a camera that has been CLAd.

I see on eBay that there are a number of suppliers from Japan that state that their cameras are pristine/like new/have been CLAd. Has anyone had experience with purchasing from Japan?

thanks

Gillian

By the BL3 and Bl4, it wasn't. What changed?

Generally speaking, I am planning a multi-speed motor with a small display and film counters, all integrated into the motor body and relatively compact. Planned price is about 1600usd + shipping to allow using higher quality parts (very high quality brushless motor drive, proper machining for metal parts, enough resources to test thoroughly, etc) and would need couple of orders to move the project forward. There will be a deposit charged (amount depends on how many orders there is, something between 30% and 50%) which will enable me getting a used Arri16S body for tests and the materials for one prototype motor so that I can finish the device this year.

Sounds expensive, about 1600 for a motor? well, the used Tobin motors are not cheap either (about a grand a piece, very hard to find, they are old and used and likely not serviced in last 20 years so not in pristine condition anymore) and this is much more advanced device with better speed options and counters etc, completely newly made and made of high quality parts. I was originally trying to make a new motor for 1k a piece but that does not seem to be possible without cheaping too much on the materials and motor drive so I will rather make it more expensive and add extra features instead to make it worth it.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7371415

This design is intended the fit snugly into the Arriflex ST and S/B magazine cavity when the 400ft magazine is not in use. This design features a small tongue each end to catch into the camera body cover hold-downs. Using a nail file or sandpaper will enable adjustment if the cover is too tight. As you can see from the pictures the finish looks a little rough. This can depend on the printer you use, or how you print (with supports etc) I have held a torch to the outside of the camera and no light gets past the cover. The cover clicks snugly into place and will not fall out.

I have printed the cover in brown so all its features are clear and easily seen. Printed in black material will help the cover look tidier. I originally created this cover to use on my own camera, but thought it might be handy if offered to others.

Both of my ( standard SR II ) magazines footage counters have never worked .... the 'actual' counter on the side, not the take off 'remaining' counter.

I recently shot a short film having to use 100ft spools...... it was difficult to gauge the roll's end. :(

Has anyone ever fixed one ..... is it easy to do without risk of damage ? ( i'm fairly competent technically ).

Many thanks,

John S

I'm looking for old firmware / SUP packages (the older the better, pre-2015 preferred) for any ARRI camera. I've already checked ARRI's website, but it seems like most older versions have been removed. I also looked on the Internet Archive, but I couldn't find anything there either.

Thanks in advance!

I recently bought an ARRIFLEX 16S (an earlier model). Apparently it was one of the cameras used by the film department at School of Visual Arts in New York. It's in really nice condition overall and everything seems to be working well, except for one thing, the tachometer consistently reads around 22ish fps. It's very steady, but it never goes up to 24 fps.

At first, I thought it might be a power issue. I was running it from a V-Mount battery through the DC8 output, so I picked up a Du-All 8.4V NiMH battery to test it and... the tachometer is still showing the same reading.

I'm wondering if this is a common issue with these motors, if it could be something in the camera itself, or if perhaps the tachometer is simply out of calibration while the camera is actually running at 24 fps.

I'm based in Vancouver and don't know of any places locally that could check or service the camera. If anyone has recommendations, I'd really appreciate them. As a last resort, I could send it to the US for service, but between shipping, customs, and repair costs, it could end up being more expensive than buying another motor or having it serviced somewhere in Canada.

I've attached a short video showing the issue.

Appreciate any help or advice. Thanks!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Un61anLCkbfPrDd_UZKuXz9v--bQEjhK/view?usp=sharing

I have opened it up; it is not a rheostat type motor like the well known original ARRI motor. But I guess it is not that much better. It is just a potentiometer that controls an LM317 which then regulates the voltage supplied to a DC motor.

It would be interesting to know who built this 🙂 

I have a project coming up where we need to shoot at 120 fps. After some testing, we figured out that the highest we can actually achieve in 2K is 90 fps (close enough), and only when shooting ArriRAW in 16:9.

If I switch to ProRes (which is what I'd prefer), high-speed is capped at HD.

I'd really rather not dive into ArriRAW, since neither I nor my editor have any experience with Codex offloading, transcoding, etc.

I guess this isn't really a yes-or-no question  I'm more looking for input on the ArriRAW pipeline.
Is it possible to convert the footage to ProRes 4444 when offloading from the Codex drive?
In a perfect world, I shoot ArriRaw for 2k 120 and convert it Proress ASAP, is this possible?
 

I am searching for an article written in 1990 by Kurt Ropin about the design of the Arri 765, called: Designing a 65mm Motion-Picture Camera: The ARRIFLEX 765

It can be found here, but I am not an SMPTE member sadly:

http://dx.doi.org/10.5594/J03852

If anyone who is a member could find this article and share it, I would be deeply grateful. I am very curious to learn more about this camera.

Thanks!

Many thanks!

Any advise would be welcome !
John S 🙄

Can someone instruct me how to change the footage counter of 2C's CE motor base from feet to meters?

Thank you. Much appreciated.

Ville

If the frequencies are generated by a microcontroller like an arduino and a signal generator like the AD9833 they wont be in perfect sync. 

Online, i found the following document (PDF) that talks about a 3200 PPF signal on pin 8. I presume PPF stands for pulses per frame, which results in a 16khz to 240khz range. (5-75FPS)

Does anyone have any documentation on exactly what kind of signal the camera expect? just a square wave? what voltage level? duty cycle?


attached below is the same PDF document, hopefully preserving it in case the website shuts down in the future

Film camera accessory connectors.pdf

It will be a simple motor based on my 4-speed crystal motors, no shutter parking but has a flat bottom with tripod threads and I am investigating if I can attach 15mm rod mounts to it. Works with 14.8v vlock batteries via dtap cable.

It is already possible to order them, price is 1000 euros including vat for EU sales / 1000usd for outside EU 0% vat.   (I am working on A-minima and NPR projects from 16th March until 2nd April and may not answer during that time but before or after is fine. I am starting working fully on the project in late April and all orders needs to be in before June for the first batch so that I can order cnc machining in time. I can make a second batch sometime later but they would be more expensive.)

I've uploaded some grabs.

I just got an sr3 advanced that’s been giving me quite the headache. After fixing gate centering at Italian tech I tested the camera and seem to have a ghosting effect on my footage.

Anyone seen this before? Is it shutter sync? (It’s very small but noticeable on the image )

lenses used:

12-120 Zeiss optex (colimate on camera ) 

6mm and 9.5mm ultra prime ( thought they were colimate so we didn’t check colimator seems like they are off. So don’t pay attention to the wider shots. 
 

Ghosting is apparent on fire tool signal of zoom shot inside and outside o the zoom shot when I come behind a truck ( the metal tubes seem duplicate) 

Ghosting images : https://imgur.com/a/8mUGEIO

any help or leads appreciated! 
guilherme 

Thanks to a friend who works in recycling, I've come into possession of an Arri 16S, S/N 7321. I'm a little confused about loading film in it - it has the 'old' style pressure flap (Google translation of a German term, in a 1969 Arri parts manual...) that doesn't have any rollers, just contoured surfaces. It's also missing the drive belt cover plate, though I recall seeing it mentioned in a thread here that the 'early' cameras didn't have them? Also, no film loop guides... See image.

Basically, my question is if anyone has any advice or old manuals pertaining to the specific idiosyncrasies regarding these earlier Arri cams. Does the lack of rollers/additional guide post (?) in the film feed path mean there's a higher chance for film to get scratched or misfeed? Are there any other 'early' features that I should look out for?

I am purely an amateur, so I don't intend to use this for commercial shoots or anything, just the odd personal project here and there.

Thanks.

Thank you,