I don't shy away from doing this myself if it appears to be a rather easy thing to do. Although I'm not experienced whatsoever.

In that case: What kind of oil do I need and what should I look out for?

Thanks! (and sincere apologies if this has been posted before..)

I added the photos and process to my website, hopefully if future film enthusiasts find such a camera they can easily find some information on it.

https://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/Kiev-16U.php

https://canon-s8-repair.yolasite.com/kiev-16ue.php

Cheers, Gareth

Other people have installed my 2-speed and 10-speed motors to K3 in the past separately using their own methods. When making the 4-speed Universal Motor, I developed a universal style installation kit which makes the installation process standardized and the necessary motor holding plate and axle adapter are available as CAD files for all people who purchase a suitable motor from me. Even for those who purchase the 4-speed motor electronics without casing as I am developing a 3d-printable 4-speed motor body where those electronics could be installed and then used with the same Krasnogorsk mounting parts than the "factory made" motor units assembled by me. 

Here is a link to the tutorial videos I made about the installation process. At least of the method I think is most practical when installing these   https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXvIUtmF3OxuiM_ycDLanahHpvIbTNyN1&si=UxWQs_HibXRYwSgh

I like to install the side plate to the camera using M3 screws with some screwholes tapped with M3 thread and others made oversized and using nut on the other side. One figures out the approximate plate position, drills some of the holes. Tests with motor to find exact position, locks down screws, removes motor, marks more holes, drills, then finishing the holes with threads if needed, then reattaching plate and testing again, then locking down when good placement is found. 

The camera needs to be disassembled for installation to get to the necessary areas for drilling and to protect movement, gears and viewfinder system from damage and metal dust from drilling and cutting. A hole needs to be cut for the motor axle to the edge of the camera body outer casing. Tutorials show this process well. 

The spacer between camera front and main body needs to be slightly modified to make cutout for the motor axle and the end of the axle adapter. There is cad files of my self designed replacement spacer with different thicknesses available which already has these cutouts added, one can 3d print a test version and fine tune it with tape to correct ffd when waiting for a metal version to be made in China or other affordable place making custom cnc machining or metal 3d printing. If the original spacer is in good condition then it is easiest to make the necessary cuts to it with Dremel or similar multitool.

This thread is especially for questions about the installation process and for guidance if someone needs help on the process. There has been so many questions about the specifics that it is easier to post them on a public thread so that others can find the same info too and lots of time is saved.

15mm rods at correct height and centering. The multiple tripod mounting threads on optical axis rather than the one offset thread the camera originally has. 

lots of extra 1/4" mounting holes to add heavy duty handles or a set of additional rods, or for rigging this to a car etc. 

The plate is fastened to the camera so that the rod mount is in contact with the camera's front part, thus preventing pretty well the plate from twisting even when it is only mounted with one screw to the camera body.

Plate is mainly meant to be sold at very good package price with my Konvas motors but it is possible to purchase these separately too if needed. Probably will include a set of basic black aluminium rods with the plate but will see if getting orders for these.

It is basically a replacement for the original speed control box of these motors as it is getting hard to find the original boxes nowadays. I am making a as-simple-as-possible device with couple of speed presets and which works at 24 volts. No displays or anything fancy. The device is way smaller than the original konvas controller, I am intending using the same casing than my Eclair 16-speed and 12-speed controllers use so very compact.

Price 450usd and should be finished in the next following months.

It is needed to replace the motor connector with new different one and to internally connect the wires inside the motor handle differently so that the motor works at 24 volts instead of original 48 volts. This modification is simple enough to be user made but I can arrange it here too if needed.

Let me know if wanting to order a controller like this. I have possibility to make crystal sync modification for 15epss too but they cost about a grand and most users don't need the features so wanting to see if this simple more affordable device would have use for them 🙂 

Hey guys. Wanted to share this.

My friend is launching a US based Kinor service business. He’s personally helped rebuild units for me. He does great work, is very professional, and knowledgeable. If you have a Kinor 16 system, he can do a lot, from CLA work to custom jobs. Reach out to him through his website now, and share it around if you can!

https://loskinop.wordpress.com/

The adapter is a little more complex than on my other 4-speed mounting kits so the price is a little higher, for preorder 900usd with 4-speed motor and later on 980usd if there is still stock available. 

I need to replicate the big round mounting plate to hold the motor which is why it costs a bit more than other 4-speed mounting kits, much larger aluminium parts which are more expensive to cnc machine. 

The standard 4-speed crystal motor rund the Konvas 1m fine with the 200ft magazines so it would work fine with the older 1KPC which has those smaller magazines too.

If I get orders before January could start working on it in Spring2026 and hopefully shipping in April. 

(straight finder 1KCP with the original rheostat motor)

So I recently purchased a full Kinor 16 2SR kit.  The general condition and whether it ran was unknown.... but it looked really interesting and odd.  The kit came with 100 and 400ft magazines, three motors, two viewfinders, and cabling.  I researched what I could, and was not surprised by how little I came across! 

It took hours to find out what lenses it would accept, and how rare they were.  On one site, a person stated they were under the impression between 100 to 200 were made.

During disassembly I have found many similarities with the Kinor CX series cameras.  I also learnt how much magnesium oxidises when left without maintenance!

I have created a page on my website to detail my progress towards restoring it to running condition.  I have also relied on numerous websites for information, these are referenced at the top of the site page, as well as email exchanges with Olex, an definite compendium of knowledge.

I also have the help of a local electrical winding business assisting me with powering up this magnesium beast.... it weighs alot...  

https://aussiecinerepair.wordpress.com/kinor-16-2sr/

Here is some of the information I have placed on the site:

This camera series were produced from the 70’s to the 90’s and were intended for professional use, either for studio or field work, news or content creation such as advertisements.  The 2SR, (2CP in Russian) was primarily designed for filming and recording sound to film, either in a studio or with a journalist. These cameras were purportedly made specifically for television studios in Russia.

The 2SR and 2SR-M were made by the Moskinap factory (MKBK) in Moscow. The 2SR has a three lens turret. The 2SR-M has a single mount design. The 2SR series lens mounts are apparently the same dimesions as the KMZ SP-16 and krasnogorsk-2 cameras.

The 2SR runs on 9 volts, has a shutter angle of 170 degrees. There are some sources that state early versions of the camera had a variable shutter. The camera features it’s motor in its hand control. The drives come in mains or battery options.

The camera body is made of magnesium and is quite thick to assist with sound recording, purportedly coming in at 44 decibels. The camera weight is 8kg. The 2SR-M comes in at 36 decibels and weighs 9.5kg.

If anyone has one or knows someone who has, email me at danthemanporto@hotmail.com

Thanks

I have a question for my footage. As you can see on the lower left part (on top of the lower perf) there's a reflection that actually (probably) belongs to the preceding or proceeding frame (not sure which). When changing the gate and performing some mirror swapping (long story) I did remove a small black guard as I thought this would be visible on the frame Ultra16 frame.

Is that my issue or is this some sort of pressure plate weird reflection? Maybe shutter timing? 

Frankly it's not such a big issue as I may end up not using this part of the frame, is it remotely possible this is a development and/or scanning issue? On the other example (crop of left side on another frame) I can actually see the film code on top, wasn't that supposed to be more to the left or have I completely lost it?

Either way that's all..

Is there anyone here still actively shooting with Kinor 16 cameras and who would like to purchase a custom made crystal sync motor for it?

The price of the motor + the modification work is around 650usd + shipping.

It is a 12-speed crystal sync modification with variable non-crystal speed knob for speed ramps. Does not have a display or other advanced features (adding a display would raise the price a lot so I think it would be more practical to not include any displays to keep the motor relatively affordable). I am removing the old electronics housing from the top of the motor and installing a black aluminium box in the place of it which houses the new electronics.  The speed selector of the new motor can be either on the top of the motor or on the back or the right side of it.

Please let me know before August 2022 if you are interested in this Kinor motor. I will need to know well beforehand modificating my own motor if anyone wants to buy this spare one so that I can modify them at the same time.

I'm trying to restore a Kiev 16u.

Most things work well for now but I can't find all lightleaks.

I did find leaks from the hole to the pistol grip and the frame counter. After tape the quality is a lot better but not completely good.

I have tried to tape the film door and the front front to body but it dint help.

I have the original rubbereycup, can the problem be light from the viewfinder?

I'm pretty sure it is not in development because my super 8 films looks good.

Example

Regards

Fredrik

No marks on spool, beginning ore end of the film.

Can't se any rimjet.

Anyone know what it can be?

Would like to try to develop it.

Was looking for a long time for this AKS-4 camera.

The camera set has never been used and is in new condition

It is a very nice and well made Arriflex 35 copy.

Can someone tell me more about? Cant find near zero

Infos about it on the internet

Thanks in advance

Stefan

I bought a K-3 a few years back from a Youtuber (who obtain it from Max of Russia). My intention is to get back into film mostly as a personal hobby. The camera has a Ultra 16 gate with a PL mount 'front plate' and with a 'full frame' 35mm lens. I'm hoping to find a wider angle lens preferable in a super16 form factor.

My question is with the flange distances of PL lenses in general. Somehow my FF lens works on my camera. So with that, can any PL lens work on a PL mount cameras like my K-3?

I'm hoping someone can clarify this for me.

Cheers

However, when the motor is stopped, it stutters. It stops, restarts, stops, and starts again - about 2 to 4 times. Rarely, if I release the button softly, it might stop at once.

What can be causing this? Does it need more max current capacity that requires a battery?

English translation of the Kinor 16 CX-1M/2M user manual:

 https://www.mediafire.com/file/3sxe9trod2nrrm1/Kinor_16_CX-1M_and_2M_Manual_English_translation.pdf/file

Russian Language version of the Kinor 16 CX-1M/2M user manual:

https://www.mediafire.com/file/sdppuyembuh92x9/Kinor_16_CX-1M_and_2M_Russian_original.pdf/file

In the next week or so I will be adding a modern user manual with more pictures and information that is not covered in the original manual.

Cheers, Gareth

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/16mm-Soviet-movie-camera-SP-16-magazine-Konvas-Kinor-Arriflex-Eyemo-AKS-AKC-CP/192738101731?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KMZ-Kinor-16-SP-Soviet-Russian-1961-Professional-16mm-Cine-camera/183615491213?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Movie-camera-Konvas-KSR-2M-with-Crystal-Synchro-motor-17EP-16APK-Mattebox-5-Mags/323397686825?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

For those that want to try 35mm!

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KONVAS-1KCP-movie-film-camera-w-25M-8M-motor-28mm-50mm-135mm-lens-woody-box-grip/312149938239?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

There are some seriously nice kits coming up very cheap, and although most have unique lens mounts, lenses for these cameras are very cheap considering the alternatives.

All it takes for the adventurous film maker is a daring heart, a touch of confidence, and thanks to Google translate, an English user manual!

it would maybe be sensible to permanently rename this forum section to "Soviet Gear". 

I think it would both honor the heritage of the cameras better and would clearly distinguish them from the modern Putin country which has nothing to do with these cameras anyway except the language on the manuals and labels.

So what do you think, naming this forum section to "Soviet Gear" to better indicate the heritage and origin of these interesting cameras?  ?

With all 3 lenses, the focus was extremely stiff and could only be moved with some effort. Since the lenses are relatively small and are quite close together on the turret, you only have the chance to turn the focus with your thumb and index finger while shooting. The aim of the overhaul was to make it possible to move the focus again without effort.

First of all: since I didn't know at all how the lenses are built and how to get to the focus gear, I took apart everything that was possible. Also the lens elements.

In retrospect, this was not necessary at all, you can get to the focus without taking the glass apart. In case someone needs/wants to clean the lenses from the inside, I'll mention the steps anyway. If you don't necessarily have to get to the glass elements, I would advise to skip this step. The lenses are very simple and you can get them together again without any problems, but it took me an extra hour to get it dust-free...

Here we go:

1. Before you pick up a screwdriver, you should first mark all the important positions on the lens, so that you can get everything back together properly. To do this, I set the focus to infinity and the aperture to 2. These are the respective end stops. Then mark this position on the brass above the thread with a permanent marker (yellow arrow), so that in the end all elements are exactly as they were before disassemby.

2. Loosen the tiny screws from the focus and aperture ring. You don't have to unscrew it completely, just a few turns. This minimizes the risk of losing the tiny screws. Carefully pull the focus and aperture ring from the barrel and immediately mark the position of all rings again. In this case, I scratched a thin scratch into the paintwork (red arrows) because I was worried about removing permanent marker when cleaning.

Be careful with the ball under the aperture ring so that it doesn't say goodbye (unless you want to "de-click" your aperture anyway). It is best to remove it with a magnetic screwdriver and clean the hole (yellow arrow). Then loosen the 3 screws slightly on the ring that was under the fucus ring (the last one before the thread, with the white line on it) and pull the ring backwards.

[3. Optional: Remove lenses / can be skipped]

Mark the position of the rear lens. I used the two screws as a marking. Loosen the rear screw, remove the ring and remove the two lenses. Be careful not to mess up the order of the lenses during disassembly.

Before removing the front lenses, be sure to mark the position of the retaining ring on the housing (red arrows) with a little scratch. The retaining ring holds all three lenses together in the front part and has to sit in exactly the same place again at the end!

The lenses have very little play in the tube and tilt slightly when reinserted, so that when screwing on and tightening the retaining ring, you might think that everything is sitting correctly again, even though you are only pressing the ring against a tilted lens element. The marking helps to see whether all lenses are really in the right place again.

Loosen the retaining ring (be careful not to slip off...) and carefully tilt the lens forward so that the lens elements slowly slide out. All glass elements are encased in brass sleeves. Actually, not much can happen...) Again: remember the order.

4. Now remove the last black throw ring. It is only secured with a small screw, but the ring is secured with 50-year-old, hard grease. In short, getting the thing down was an act and was only possible with the use of cleaning spirit and gentle force. If you are looking at the lens from behind, the ring must be unscrewed COUNTERCLOCKWISE.

5. When focusing, only the position of the two rear lenses changes. The rear tube moves in and out minimally. The position of the tube is fixed with a small screw, which runs in a guide slot. I have marked the position of this guide slot and the position that the tube has at infinity position.

6. When you have disassembled the throw ring from point 4 and you take out this little screw, you can remove the rear brass tube.

7. All that's left now is to unscrew the small screw that blocks the Focus's end stop (yellow arrow). Then you can unscrew the last brass ring and wonder how hard grease can get...

I scraped off the crust with a plastic spatula, and then cleaned, degreased and regreased all parts, both the threads and the inner running surfaces of the brass tube.

8. Assemble in reverse order. All the markings I made gave me the assurance that everything would fit as intended.

When tightening the screws, it is important that you do not tighten them one after the other, but only a few turns all around, i.e. screw 1 a little, then screw 2 a little and also the 3.

Then again screw 1 a little, etc.

If you don't pay attention to this, the rings will sit crooked and or wobble.

Finished: