no shutter parking but there is easily accessible manual inching knob underneath. Makes it possible to make the electronics box much smaller and save about 40% of the costs by leaving the shutter parking out. 

Kind of "semi-open" structure so that the inching knob can be accessed easily. Funny looking design after all and should work well in use. Relatively small and lightweight too. Not optimal for handheld of course but one could arrange some kind of shoulder pad to be mounted on the tripod plate to make it more ergonomic, the can't be integrated shoulder compatible back part because that would block the inching knob.

This is the first draft. If getting orders will refine the design. Would need the orders this year in December latests and could then make the motors in Spring2026 and send them somewhere between March and June.

Price from 850 to 900usd with shipping depending on how many orders there is. 20% paid when placing the order and the rest in February 2026.

First up is the adapter probably everyone is familiar with because it seems to be the default adapter included with most ACLs - it threads onto the TS mount on the camera and allows you to mount a Cameflex (CA-1) mount lens to the camera.  It has the big threads on a knurled ring that spins and fixes the adapter to the camera, the locating pin that matches up with the camera mount to keep it from spinning on the camera once it's cinched down, then the Cameflex mount in the center, which is a bayonet-type mount which allows you to push the lens in the mount and twist it clockwise to lock it into the mount.

Duncan

The new one is next to a Type 24 to show actual size comparison. Need to tweak it a bit as I'd like to use a push button instead of of a flip switch. The worm gear is a test print for the moment. Will be sorting out the gearing at the precision engineers next week and getting the new motors for the precision speed tests.

Cheers

Marek

I have narrowed down the specs of the new motor enough that wanted to post a new thread for it. As with my other current projects, I am making the development work in steps and advancing to a new steps necessitates that the orders come in time and pre payments are made as planned to finance my development work.

The basics:

- a completely new crystal motor for the Eclair NPR. not a modification of existing motor, I am making this out of scratch

- possible to make if there is at least 3 pre paid orders to finance the materials and research. I can't use my own savings on this project right now because need every penny for move in the Summer

- the motor has internal crystal speeds of at least 24fps and 25fps, user switchable. There may be additional speeds if there is room for the larger electronics and extra selectors additional speeds would need. prepare only for the two speeds because the main goal is to make the motor AS COMPACT AS POSSIBLE for handheld etc. use and every extra bell and whistle makes it larger and more cumbersome which is why I try to avoid adding any unnecessary extra features

- will be smaller sized than the Alcan motor. the exact size will be determined in Summer when making 3d printing tests of the body of the motor

- price is 1200usd + shipping. I won't try to make it cheaper if there is extra headroom, will try to instead make it better if there is extra budget left. it is affordable as a new motor already and cheaper does not make sense for products which are meant to last for years and years of use

- Availability: needs to be ordered and paid for in March2024 or absolutely latest before April 20. The final motors will be delivered in late Autumn, likely in October or November. Prototype available to look at after the Summer. You will get a good working motor which has the promised specs or more and which looks as nice as was possible to make with the budget, it just takes lots of time and budget to finesse the exact outer shape of the body so this is why there is no photos or renders yet.

- body will be either 3d printed or machined from solid aluminium depending on how many orders there is. I will make it as good as possible with the available budget. if there is minimal amount of orders then a sturdy print should be fine and on the other hand would be much lighter than aluminium body

- integrated tripod mounting threads, does not need separate boot/support structure. the main use for this motor is handheld etc. use where the small weight and size has best benefits but tripod use of course possible as well

- either 24v operating voltage OR 12v if I can arrange custom bldc motor drives made and there is enought orders and the 12v drives don't make the motor considerably larger and heavier.

- no shutter parking because it would make the motor much larger, heavier and more expensive. the NPR has a manual inching integrated and the goal of the project is to make the smallest and lightest motor possible for it which contradicts with shutter parking systems

Single handle version...
An aluminum angle with a vertical face on the RH side. Chinese rossette for a side handle. 9 pin cannon connection safely hidden behind vertical face. Chinese 15mm iris rod clamps screwed to a riser at the front of the horizontal face.

The two handle version...
An aluminum C section so you have vertical faces on left and right sides of camera, rossettes each side for handles. Same 15mm iris rod clamp idea. A single rod clamp at the right rear for battery mount options.

The ideas that I thought about before beginning the exercise.

- All load taken through the 3/8" mount under the camera base. 

- The hand held rig will fit straight onto a tripod.

- Maybe a shoulder pad can fit to the quick release plate.

- Need good access to the original switch even if switching with the 9 pin cannon on the RH side.

- Rod mount must be close enough to the body so that follow focus can reach prime lenses.

- Develop some extension to the rear that allows battery position to the rear. Maybe a single rod offset from the mag.

The sketch below shows the ACL II version.

If I get a chance I will make an an AUTOCAD drawing so these are easy to make
Cheers,
Gregg.
 

There are links to more pics at dropbox under each heading. Any problems with access let me know. I may edit this later if any errors or improvements needed.

I also listed this on the Cinemarketplace forum  ..https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/103570-eclair-acl-components-and-parts/

1) ACL II S16 BODY, no motor or eyepiece
pics at dropbox.. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/fs7ao30o45ffyd9preapg/AEJhWgq9P1hq6-PZjIJan1U?rlkey=a5tusjicswi72qi6bp7aeru99&st=w8sxyd47&dl=0 

The item is with a technician at Panavision getting a new 9 pin Canon motor connector. It may be with him for a month 'till he has time after hours, so there is time to consider how best to sell it and take questions.....

 My spare ACL II body, no motor, eyepiece or handle module. S16 conversion by Visual Products. VP conversions are about the best, with really nice, simple ground glass markings. The ACL II base, I don't know if it was a bespoke factory original or someone's aftermarket piece. The machining, apart from the front shape, looks the same as factory standard, including the labeling. The rod mount is almost integral at the front.... looks really useful..no plate needed.

Needs a CLA and a couple of hopefully small repairs...

I've never used it, but ran scratch tests to assess it (scratch free). Sounded like the shutter was just lightly ticking against the body. Also, one of the motor mount threads on the body is striped, so probably needs a thread insert. I emailed Paul at Visual Products and it sounded like the shutter ticking noise might get fixed within a CLA. It may be something easy like the mirror connecting rod.  If it's difficult then maybe a couple extra hours. 

There could be a couple of options on how to sell this....I could sell as is. When the connector is replaced we could assess the noise. Or, I could send it to Paul at VP for CLA, repair then set a price

A thought re the stripped motor mount screw.... That one screw has only a very thin section of body casting to anchor to. The other 3 screws are threaded into much stiffer sections, so I wonder if 3 screws are probably enough. I can ask Paul later. 

Added notes...
If there is a new 9 pin Canon connector in one of the photos please ignore it. It's not included.
The 9 pin Canon connector at the side grip location..has a big chip out of the plastic surround. The metal pins are all good and the connector works just fine.

EDIT: For the latest prices scroll down to last post. 

2) ACL multispeed motor

pics at dropbox https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/ef8hntmi8lswndudmlwjo/AKYnbwbJWNZXU0aLn9Ezps4?rlkey=2uofa0lgo7xo7fy7ni2bbhdjw&st=9yvsy87o&dl=0

Heavy duty, late model Thomson crystal sync motor (MIMUL) with crystal speeds of  8fps, 12fps, 24fps, 25fps, 50fps, 75fps.   Mirror parking on camera stop (meaning the mirror always stops in the viewing position).  Serviced by Andrzej (AZ Spectrum) in July 2023 and  not used since. Cosmetic condition quite good. A couple scratches and paint chips that the techs touch up.

AZ Spectrum invoice in the photos.

PRICE.   $1300

3) FRENCH ACL MAGS
dropbox pics at https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/peubt0fb83952tjzbict6/AMVW4xSgubP7MAUtm5BrUG8?rlkey=ogxfip3ppmrtm1nngh593b7uq&st=ruyb70g9&dl=0

All mags are late model French with the separate little pressure plate over the gate. Like an SR, the film is held in a precise gap by the long pressure plate, and only the little plate over the gate applies pressure.

- 400' French ACL mag, S16, machining looks nice. Fairly tidy looking. Needs CLA, but really just lubrication. ("Pat 1"),  #SD-503, with cap. PRICE USD800

- 400' French ACL mag, standard 16. Fairly tidy looking. Needs CLA, but really just lubrication. ("FR3"),  #SC-797, no cap.   PRICE USD650 (you can buy a 3D printed cap on eBay for USD55)  EDIT: SOLD.

- 200' French magazine,standard 16, in as new condition, friction feels low, but should have lubrication soon, #D98, with cap.  PRICE USD800....EDIT: SOLD

4) ACL MAG PARTS SELL        EDIT: On eBay this mag has been parted out into several items.
dropbox at https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/ahux7jypyku5ls9u7f449/ABc2z_xeJVOUdHABIouUYtw?rlkey=y0r1oxtpnatyz6dz274w6hq4l&st=mf9hn5z0&dl=0

400' English mag for parts. 
Has a French throat, otherwise is all English. Missing feed side door, platters.
Belts, spindles, rollers, guide shoe assembly all good. Drive sprocket, I cant remember what the ball bearing was like. 
Partly disassembled, I could probably disassemble completely and just ship the bits and pieces, leaving the body and door behind.
USD100 as is......
USD120 just the bits and pieces, no body/doors....

Support plate assy with guide shoes and rollers, complete less sprocket assembly (MIN 445 E/A)...New
Later model French. No mounting screws. One of the recommended mods if running high speed. See the Eclair ACL Parts Catalogue (not the UK one), page4, shows pics of the different plates.

Drive sprocket spindle assembly for French mag (315 E..?)....used
Ball bearing and shaft feel ok but shaft has a little bur right near the tip that needs smoothing before reassembly. The "pulley" on the assembly body that drives the take up belt has some little dents and burs that will need to be smoothed out (mostly just careful straightening.
PRICE USD120 for support plate assembly and sprocket assemblies together.....

French 400' mag doors...New.
Brand new alloy doors, L/R. No latch hardware. There is one white disck for the big latch knob. (MIN 717, 727)

Sound deadening for French 400' take up door...New  (MIN 707/708)
It has laminated layers. There is a lead impregnated layer.
The factory screwed up when they laminated the rear part of the sound deadening, with the layers in reverse order. To use it, one would have to delaminate it and glue it back in correct order. The outer surface of the black vinyl stuff may then have old glue to clean off. Maybe one could use new vinyl for that part.
USD160 for doors and sound deadening together...Shipping

French 400' footage counter face plate. New. (MIN 748, 749, .. ?)
Has 3 layers:  printed metal face plate/ clear plastic/ inner metal face plate.

PRICE USD150 for doors, sound deadening and footage counter face plate together...Shipping

5) Arri S adapter for Eclair ACL   EDIT: SOLD
dropbox pics at https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/z02yjls363fa5kqavubia/AMgsr3uilOWRww8QTE-G0iQ?rlkey=zuljlulh4so0vwmjv3cmchrn6&st=wxzcuqjh&dl=0

TS/Arri-S (standard) adapter for Eclair ACL.   This mount will let you use older Arri,  Zeiss,  Schneider lenses,  also old Cooke Kinetal.  The Kinetal will turn OK in the lens port if it is loosened a tiny bit (normally have a light smear of lubricant).   This is the standard Arri S adapter that was sold with the ACL cameras.  Good condition, all thread movements smooth,  some signs of use,  some wear on the anodized coating on the front flange,  but nothing that should affect FFD.  Rear flange good.   Just what's in the photo,  no front or rear cap.  There are proper caps for an Arri S port that you could buy somewhere,  or scrounge up used ones.  Being a Kiwi I have used a plastic cap off a vegemite jar.  I can maybe find a spare one to go with.

PRICE.   $450

Since its costing me comparably very little money i will try to learn how to work on these cameras myself. I've been reading a lot about them and am very intrigued by their design! 
Especially the osczillating mirror is incredibly fascinating.


I will update this thread over the next weeks with more detailed pictures

Enter 226971959657 in the ebay search bar.

I’ve searched all around this forum and through Google but couldn’t find anything specific on how to actually turn the vf. 

Bernie installed it a couple of years ago and told me to: “force it a little, but it will turn every way. It’s designed to be tight so it doesn’t move around during shooting.”

But whenever I get it to turn,  with a huge amount of force I might add, the vf mount seems to come a tad loose and I can move the vf ever so slightly when it’s supposed to be tight.

I assume the little screw beneath the vf can be unscrewed a little and helps it turn better. But I don’t know if that’s actually how it’s supposed to be done. 

Anyone who can help me out?

(Attached a picture of the vf with markings to visually explain what I mean. Green = the little screw and Red = the vf mount that loosens.

I was trying to get familiar with changing the shutter angle for my Eclair NPR. In the process, I wanted to run the camera, when it was making a weird noise, I accidentally turned the knob on the left which changes the shutter and the camera turned off suddenly which was dumb of me to do that as I know that there is a problem. Since then, the camera is not functioning. It uses a perfectone motor. 

So I detached the camera body from the motor to see whether the source of the problem is from the camera or the motor and its definitely from the motor as it wouldn't work.  I checked the fuse like in the pictures and I am not sure whether its the fuse. I use a Vlok battery of 14.4v, I know that the required is 12V, I bought the camera on ebay months ago and the seller said its okay to use the vlok 14.4v and it was running fine. I tested the camera last week and the battery with the camera was running fine. So I doubt whether its the battery. 

I am not sure why the motor wouldn't run, Is it the fuse, do I need to replace it? Is it the battery, should I use it with a 12V battery. I don't have access to it,I'd have to buy it which will take a while. Is the motor damaged? How can I know? What is the solution? 

I live in london so other than Les Bosher I do not know anyone who deals with Eclair NPR. Please guide me. I have a music video coming in a week and I need to fix it before. 

Please see the pictures. Thank you.

Regards,

Dharmik 

IMG_2839_optimized_500.heic IMG_2838_optimized_500.heic

Cheap prices. If they are any good it's very useful.  Am I right that a Zeiss Contax CY mount would be good with this?  Good news for ACL and NPR.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254767178231?_skw=eclair+acl&itmmeta=01K0JF0CNDK8KFZYNVPEST468J&hash=item3b514ea1f7:g:ZNIAAMXQWlFRx8OM&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e0flTXqkpxenrnVjGtw9kN891lZQxUhjVZtfY6UuymvPEv1cfbUXV28Mhb1PX1vOlW6JN09y8MyMZNF%2FjBHBzkgPGlSx%2Bvr6AYNqQLoUTbjoPMnJTbSYbCaCrPXkTi2d14MjtsDjEQVdvYF4H%2BiJs%2BIh7SI67GEuSSBUUYas94xtuM1qJqUzJQ7jeD%2BfMS1eG6gT3w5hH2k7BHP90ONcCc1m%2BFyh%2BYnWza0mQl9MRKrZ2m7kCljBIqS1pjFF9maR0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_DKgc-EZg

Posted 1 hour ago by Bill Reiter

As you may have noticed on other threads, I am developing a new crystal sync motor for the Eclair ACL.

The main goal is to build a completely new crystal sync motor which does not use any of the original ACL electronics because my first customer has a camera which does not have any motor at all. Thus I am building a motor model which is not based on any of the original motors but is entirely built from new parts, including a new brushless motor and new control electronics.

The current schedule is to have the first model ready at the end of August2022. After that the design is finessed enough so that others can order these motors too ?

There is still some details to sort out and I am still writing the firmware for the system parts, starting the testing phase in mid July. I don't want to post any images at this stage because there is still some things which can change in the design and it is often a bad idea to post detailed prototype images anyway unless the design is final... but here are the parts of the specs which are pretty much locked now and should not change much:

-  it entirely replaces the old motor and the original internal electronics of the ACL

- it is NOT more compact than the original ACL motor. It will be bigger sized for sure. BUT it has very advanced features compared to any of the original ACL motors including the display and very advanced crystal speed possibilities so it is totally worth it to have a slightly larger new motor

- there will be two models of the new motor: 

   *A customized model which has the control electronics built into the original camera base (this is demanding custom installation work, is a bit more expensive and you need to ship the camera body to me so that this custom modification is possible to do at all). The display is small because there is no room for a larger one.

  * The main model which has the new control electronics built into a separate box attached to the motor itself. This model has all the new electronics enclosed into one unit and you should be able to install this to the camera by yourself because all the controls and power connectors go directly to the control box and nothing goes through the original camera base. The main model has slightly large display as well (still determining the maximum size but it can be up to double the size compared to the custom model motor).

- The new motor has a graphical user interface based on a selector knob and a small oled display. This control method is in both motor models though the display size may differ a little from model

- Features:

- internal speed presets set by me during the manufacturing. the test model has 9 preset speeds but more can be added up to about 30 presets (though large amount of presets makes the menu pretty slow to use so I recommend from 9 to 12 preset speeds). All the most common sync speeds like 23.976, 24.00, 25.00, 29.976 and 33.333 are added by default.

- two user customizable speed presets which can be set by 1/1000th fps accuracy. These are for those special needs when you want to have a oddball speed like 19.225fps for artistic purposes etc ?  for all the normal needs the built in preset speeds are fine so you should not need these very often

- maximum speed of the motor will be at least 48fps, probably more. I am still testing couple of different bldc motor models for this use and can tell the exact maximum when the motor choice is locked

- all speeds are crystal sync

- most likely the motor has a input for external speed controller (sold separately, made by me). Will test this next month

Some of the features of the user interface:

- speed preset menu to select the preset fps (from 11 up to 30 presets. typically one wants about 12 or so to keep it easy enough to use)

- possibility to adjust the custom user preset fps speeds (two user speeds possible to set)

- counter showing the remaining film in the magazine by 1 meter accuracy. When changing the mag you can set the new film roll length by 1 meter accuracy

- audible warnings on/off

- battery voltage meter

- length of the last take and previous take in meters

- take limiter feature: you can set a maximum length for a single take, after which the camera stops automatically. Helps to save film if you want to shoot standard length takes for for example b-roll mos material

- counters and presets are saved into memory and they will stay there if power is lost

Targeted price point for the "standard" model is somewhere around 1000 - 1100usd. The price of the custom model depends on the work needed on the modification but probably it is somewhere around from 1300 to 1500usd.

Will post more later when locking more design details :)

Any help appreciated. Boris Belay will know.

Gregg.

http://backglass.org/duncan/eclair/eclair_npr_brochure_01.pdf

http://backglass.org/duncan/eclair/eclair_acl_brochure_01.pdf

http://backglass.org/duncan/eclair/eclair_npr_price_list_19740603.pdf

http://backglass.org/duncan/eclair/eclair_acl_price_list_19740513.pdf

If you can't stand the huge file sizes and just want to see the info, I also made 100DPI versions:

http://backglass.org/duncan/eclair/eclair_npr_brochure_01_100.pdf

http://backglass.org/duncan/eclair/eclair_acl_brochure_01_100.pdf

http://backglass.org/duncan/eclair/eclair_npr_price_list_19740603_100.pdf

http://backglass.org/duncan/eclair/eclair_acl_price_list_19740513_100.pdf

I also sent these links via the contact form at eclaircameras.wordpress.com so with luck they'll show up in that central repository too.

Duncan

I checked the footage counter and saw that about 10 meters of film remained. When I examined the film on the magazine, specifically the section passing over the pressure plate, I noticed that one of the sprocket holes seemed damaged. We immediately stopped shooting, and yesterday, I decided to remove the film from the magazine.

First, I cut the exposed section to preserve the remaining 10 meters of unexposed film and placed the magazine in the changing bag. Upon opening the lid, I discovered that the film had become severely tangled on the left side of the magazine, where the transport mechanisms push it forward. It seemed as if a piece had gotten stuck, causing the rest to bunch up. Fortunately, the right side, where the film winds onto the take-up core, was intact. After carefully untangling everything, I managed to neatly roll the film onto the take-up core and store it in the film can.

My question is: does anyone know why my camera started acting up? Has anyone experienced this issue before? My initial thought is that the film wasn’t tensioning properly onto the take-up core—perhaps because there was no space left around it—causing the jam. What do you think? Could this be a magazine-related issue instead? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Attached are some images of the damaged film sprocket and a rough sketch of how the film was jammed.

So, let's start:

1. Super16 inc. / Bernie O'Doherty. Currently not taking any new work / March 2021
2. Les Bosher Does he service cameras or only modify them for S16?

Moderator comment: The latest edited version of the techs list should be on page 5. If it gets moved, a link to it, wherever it is, will be in the pinned thread Useful links for Eclair ACL on the forum.

Best,

Steven Jackson

Brussels, Belgium