Nikkor lenses on Bolex Rex 1

[Andrew Hamilton Watts]

Hi all, lately I’ve been eyeing a telephoto lens for my Bolex. However, as is no surprise, the prices for a lot of the classic ones are now crazy. I do have a good amount of Nikon F mount lenses for my SLRs and I know there are adaptors. I’m just curious for those who have used Nikon F lenses on a Bolex, is there anything I need to be aware of? Certain focal lengths that won’t work or shooting wide open creating issues with the prism on my Bolex? It also seems to me that a big Nikon lens mounted on the front of a Bolex is putting a lot of weight on the turret, does this cause issues?

 

thanks so much!

[Simon Wyss]

33 minutes ago, Andrew Hamilton Watts said:

a big Nikon lens mounted on the front of a Bolex is putting a lot of weight on the turret, does this cause issues?

It does, with my brain and soul.

Where does this obsessive wish come from to have large lenses on a camera that was made for smaller, more compact, more lightweight, and optically perfectly fit ones? I don’t get it.

C-mount optics are good enough, actually better, can be had for little money and look exactly right. Also the choice is wide. It’s vast.

[Andrew Hamilton Watts]

6 hours ago, Simon Wyss said:

It does, with my brain and soul.

Where does this obsessive wish come from to have large lenses on a camera that was made for smaller, more compact, more lightweight, and optically perfectly fit ones? I don’t get it.

C-mount optics are good enough, actually better, can be had for little money and look exactly right. Also the choice is wide. It’s vast.

I agree that it does not look great and takes away from the mobility of smaller cameras.

I have nothing against C mount glass either! But I’m not sure about the affordability of it. Som Berthiot or the Angenieux 12-120 are like well over a grand. If there are cheaper zoom options I’m all for it! Just I don’t know where to look…

[Dom Jaeger]

You should have no problems with focal lengths longer than 50mm, and even under that you will probably be OK unless you shoot at wide open apertures.

When using heavy lenses you should definitely be using the bottom lens port locking screw to help keep the turret stable, but it doesn't really help with the top of the turret potentially deforming. As zooms became more prevalent, later Bolex models introduced a top lock for the turret, which helps with that. It's something that can be retro-fitted to earlier models like yours. It depends somewhat on just how heavy  and long the lens in question is. Avoid transporting the camera with heavy lenses fitted, or subjecting the camera to bumps and knocks. 

I agree that the price for some C mount lenses has become rather ridiculous, but you should be able to find 3 to 6 inch teles for around $100.  For example:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256875339492

https://www.ebay.com/itm/387268208684

https://www.ebay.com/itm/226182882613

https://www.ebay.com/itm/326255729161

 

[Andrew Hamilton Watts]

1 hour ago, Dom Jaeger said:

You should have no problems with focal lengths longer than 50mm, and even under that you will probably be OK unless you shoot at wide open apertures.

When using heavy lenses you should definitely be using the bottom lens port locking screw to help keep the turret stable, but it doesn't really help with the top of the turret potentially deforming. As zooms became more prevalent, later Bolex models introduced a top lock for the turret, which helps with that. It's something that can be retro-fitted to earlier models like yours. It depends somewhat on just how heavy  and long the lens in question is. Avoid transporting the camera with heavy lenses fitted, or subjecting the camera to bumps and knocks. 

I agree that the price for some C mount lenses has become rather ridiculous, but you should be able to find 3 to 6 inch teles for around $100.  For example:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256875339492

https://www.ebay.com/itm/387268208684

https://www.ebay.com/itm/226182882613

https://www.ebay.com/itm/326255729161

 

Lovely! Thanks for the info and some options. Man, the Rex 1 sometimes bugs me lol. It never dawned on me that there is a lower or upper turret lock depending on the model. Are C mount TV lenses just generally a no go? Even if I were shooting outside stopped down? 

[Simon Wyss]

Let me take you around the rock to have a different look at it.

Instead of investing in a RX-1 that affords a narrow finder view on a small round base you might want to find a

• different model which opens optical freedoms a RX model doesn’t, or a
• younger RX which at least gives a wider finder view on a large base.

With different model I mean a Standard one, H 16 S on the name plate from serial number 203551 on. A Standard H incorporates the rackover focusing and framing system that goes back to the Bell & Howell Standard Camera, model 2709. You have 100 percent of the light coming from a lens on the frosted front of a glass prism behind the upper lens port. Through a magnifying loupe you see the image on the prism. The reflex finder gives you 25 percent of the incoming light at best. The first Standard with that critical finder system bears the number 7531.

Older Standard H models up to serial number 100,400 have 190 degrees shutter opening, later 170. Together with the wider shutter angle you have a deeply engaging claw made from steel plus lateral film guidance according to the norm (today ISO 466). H 16 S since 1963 have a bigger rectangular body base with three tapped bores for fixation. But what counts most is that the Standard models have nothing between the lens and the film but air (and the shutter). You can use almost any optics there are, be it a C-mount one, be it a LEICA lens via the original Leitz adapter or something else. For framing you employ a side finder attached to the camera lid. If a zoom lens, I’d search for a modern one. There are very compact ones, not that long and wieldy. TV lenses can be so-so, some are excellent.

A third approach could be to purchase a bayonet model, SB/SBM/EL, and a Vario-Switar 12,5 to 100 (Aspheron or not). This is a sturdy and optically satisfying equipment. It all depends on which direction you’re taking in cinematography.

[Andrew Hamilton Watts]

5 hours ago, Simon Wyss said:

Let me take you around the rock to have a different look at it.

Instead of investing in a RX-1 that affords a narrow finder view on a small round base you might want to find a

• different model which opens optical freedoms a RX model doesn’t, or a
• younger RX which at least gives a wider finder view on a large base.

With different model I mean a Standard one, H 16 S on the name plate from serial number 203551 on. A Standard H incorporates the rackover focusing and framing system that goes back to the Bell & Howell Standard Camera, model 2709. You have 100 percent of the light coming from a lens on the frosted front of a glass prism behind the upper lens port. Through a magnifying loupe you see the image on the prism. The reflex finder gives you 25 percent of the incoming light at best. The first Standard with that critical finder system bears the number 7531.

Older Standard H models up to serial number 100,400 have 190 degrees shutter opening, later 170. Together with the wider shutter angle you have a deeply engaging claw made from steel plus lateral film guidance according to the norm (today ISO 466). H 16 S since 1963 have a bigger rectangular body base with three tapped bores for fixation. But what counts most is that the Standard models have nothing between the lens and the film but air (and the shutter). You can use almost any optics there are, be it a C-mount one, be it a LEICA lens via the original Leitz adapter or something else. For framing you employ a side finder attached to the camera lid. If a zoom lens, I’d search for a modern one. There are very compact ones, not that long and wieldy. TV lenses can be so-so, some are excellent.

A third approach could be to purchase a bayonet model, SB/SBM/EL, and a Vario-Switar 12,5 to 100 (Aspheron or not). This is a sturdy and optically satisfying equipment. It all depends on which direction you’re taking in cinematography.

I really wish I had this sort of sage advice before I had bought my Rex 1 a few years back lol. I was really hooked on the reflex idea and I’m slowly realizing that it might not have been the deal breaker I thought it was at the time. 
 
I really would not be opposed to getting a Non reflex body - but unfortunately where I am (Canada) even those are getting very difficult to find. Or are missing parts like the critical finder loupe, etc. 

Using Leica M glass is sort of a wild idea, I never realized they made an adaptor for that…