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HDTV 9 X 16 options for super 8


Marty Hamrick

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Here we have the age old problem of putting the rectangle in wider rectangle.As I understand super 8 has a few options.Widening the gate such as what is done with 16mm to super 16,what is called Super Duper 8 (gay ass sounding name but whatever),and Pro 8mm's Max 8(better name similar idea).Or you could just shoot as is and crop for 9 x 16 when you shoot.Then there's anamorphic,which intrigues me,but I'm sure this could open up a can of worms too.

Not too hip on carving into the gates od super 8 cameras.Not much there to carve into and I don't see much difference on what is gained.

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I think Pro8 carries a couple of anamorphic lenses -- 16x9 and 2.39:1 (classic "scope"). Of course, I'm not sure if those are available for all cameras. They would seem to be good options if you're looking to get the most widescreen resolution out of the standard Super 8 frame.

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Here we have the age old problem of putting the rectangle in wider rectangle.As I understand super 8 has a few options.Widening the gate such as what is done with 16mm to super 16,what is called Super Duper 8 (gay ass sounding name but whatever),and Pro 8mm's Max 8(better name similar idea).Or you could just shoot as is and crop for 9 x 16 when you shoot.Then there's anamorphic,which intrigues me,but I'm sure this could open up a can of worms too.

Not too hip on carving into the gates od super 8 cameras.Not much there to carve into and I don't see much difference on what is gained.

 

I am one of the people behind super-duper 8 and I think there is much to be gained. Some viewers of our feature Sleep Always have described it as some of the best super 8 they have seen and the wider image area gets a lot of the credit. It's not perfect, as has been discussed at length in many places (and I am the first sto admit there are issues), but well worth it nevertheless in my opiion. Max 8 is not just a similar idea - they are doing it "right" - recentering the optics etc. But you have to contend with their prices.

 

You can crop any image to any aspect ratio in post but you are just masking. If you expose more film emulsion to begin with then there is more information to work with - and more to be gained.

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The way to go is with a macro prime lens and an anamorphic adapter so that you get the best results. In 10mm preferably. Your best bet for maximum results are either a Beaulieu with a macro prime or a Leicina Special with a macro prime, and then add an anamorphic from Century Precision Optics.

 

Following this advice will keep your costs to a reasonable level and give you maximum resolution.

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I am one of the people behind super-duper 8 and I think there is much to be gained. Some viewers of our feature Sleep Always have described it as some of the best super 8 they have seen and the wider image area gets a lot of the credit. It's not perfect, as has been discussed at length in many places (and I am the first sto admit there are issues), but well worth it nevertheless in my opiion. Max 8 is not just a similar idea - they are doing it "right" - recentering the optics etc. But you have to contend with their prices.

 

You can crop any image to any aspect ratio in post but you are just masking. If you expose more film emulsion to begin with then there is more information to work with - and more to be gained.

 

 

I've seen some clips from "Sleep Always" and they do look great.I commend you on that project.I've worked on some 16mm projects where the equipment I was given was a,I guess I'll say,"after market" super 16 conversions.It was a crap shoot as to whether you got one that didn't end up with a reshoot or an expensive post production fix.Such problems would be magnified in super 8.

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  • 7 months later...

has anyone tried the century optics 16:9 adapter on a 1014 or 814, Im looing at this combination, though i dont know to much about the 1014 lens. specifically focussing, is it an internal barrel focussing or does the outside rotate, ie will i have to set the horizontal allignment (dont want skewed images) every time i adjust focus. there is always the option of building rails to hold the adapter horizontal, anyone experimented with this.

 

thanks, this is my first post so be nice. im currently in malaysia and we're a bit short on 8mm cameras here. i want to buy a 8/1014 though im having trouble finding out theis particular piece of information on the web.

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Guest shutter bug

if you want to go 16:9 you can get the century optics or other specific 16:9 anamorphic lens, have it set so it is mounted on the lens mout of a beaulieu, then get an adaptor fixed to the front so it will take lenses on the front.

 

its a better option to have the anamorphic between the lens and the film plane

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if you want to go 16:9 you can get the century optics or other specific 16:9 anamorphic lens, have it set so it is mounted on the lens mout of a beaulieu, then get an adaptor fixed to the front so it will take lenses on the front.

 

its a better option to have the anamorphic between the lens and the film plane

do you mean a ground glass converter that i can attach other lenses too.

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if you want to go 16:9 you can get the century optics or other specific 16:9 anamorphic lens, have it set so it is mounted on the lens mout of a beaulieu, then get an adaptor fixed to the front so it will take lenses on the front.

 

its a better option to have the anamorphic between the lens and the film plane

 

That won't work.

 

Anamorpic lenses are not spherical telextenders.

Since telextenders are spherical they shift the entire focal plane.

Anamorphics use cylindrical lenses. They work in only one dimension, whereas a spherical works in two, horizontal and vertical.

 

A rear anamorphic will not shift the focal plane of the main lens like a telextender.

The main lens can't be shifted away from the film. So the anamorphic is focused on the film plane and has to be small enough to fit between the film and the rear element of the main lens.

 

Only long lenses and 35mm zooms have the space between the lens and film plane to fit an anamorphic.

 

A front anamorphic really gives the best picture quality. The rears are more convenient except for speed.

 

So the Century has to go on the front of the lens.

Also the focus is fixed at some hyperfocal distance at the wide end of a zoom, so it can't be used for zoom through or at the long end. Only the wide end.

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