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Processing Kodak Double-X 7222 for fine grain


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Hi,

 

I am planning to shoot a project with Kodak Double-X 7222. I will develop the rolls at home using a Lomo tank (50'+50').

 

I have already done this once, using Rodinal as a developer. The results were beautiful (as always with Rodinal), but the grain was unacceptably high. For this current project, I am thinking of using a fine grain developer - probably Microdol or Microphen, but I am also considering the T Max developer.

 

Has anyone had experience with developing this film at home? Can you offer a good "standard" developing time for any of these developers when using them with 7222? How about dilution? Also, if anyone has experience with T Max, please share it with me.

 

 

Thanks,

Nitay

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I would look into Pyro. Pyro works to increase accutance, reduce grain, and dyes the film providing a contrast mask. The great part about that is you never get blown out highlights. As long as you have your shadows, you'll always have details in your highlights. It really is a wonder developer. I've used it to develop 7222 before. No matter what though, you still have grain. It is a not real fine grain film, you'd want Plus-X for that.

 

T-Max and the Ilford counterpart are really designed for T-Max and Delta films, I don't really see them doing much if anything for older emulsion technologies. Also, keep in mind that traditional fine-grain developers mask grain in a way that counters sharpness, since it is the grain itself that provides the "idea" of sharpness/accutance. Fine-grain developers were really popular early on since b&w film was much more grainy than what we use today. By the 50's/60's film was becoming much finer-grained.

 

My suggestion is to go for a film that is finer-grained rather than trying to find a developer to reduce the grain in a higher-grained film. That said, try pyro. Other than that I don't know if you'll get the look your looking for using 7222.

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I developed a short roll of 7222 in Tmax and it certainly had a good amount of grain. But, I am using a Morse rewind tank and it really agitates the hell out of the film. So, a lomo spiral tank will probably give better results.

 

I agree, Pyro is a great developer. Check the Photographer's Formulary webiste / catalog.

 

You may try Accufine as well. Great developer. I use it for 4x5 work.

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