Deepak Bajracharya Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Namaste, I would like to know if any specific path to be followed on making 35mm print from footages shot by SI2k mini both in front of camera and during post. I will go for 2.39:1 scope framing for 35mm scope print with 24p and 2k resolution. Let me know the sensitivity of the camera in terms of ASA ( may be 400ASA?? ) so that I be able to maintain the lighting ratio using my light meter. I think it is not wise to set the aperture just by looking on the lcd and laptop computer. Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deepak Bajracharya Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 This project is 60seconds advertisement, half of it to be shot in chroma key destined for theatre. I wont have much time to work with the look set menu so I just would like to know if anybody has previously tested and determined the sensivity of this camera so that it be comfortable to use light meter and maintain the lighting ratio and set the aperture. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Drysdale Posted September 2, 2007 Share Posted September 2, 2007 This link might help: http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?...8036#post738036 One of the guys behind this film out test is on DVInfo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deepak Bajracharya Posted September 4, 2007 Author Share Posted September 4, 2007 Namaste, Thank you very much for the link. I finished the one day shooting last Saturday. Now the issue is that whether I would be able to bring back the footages in post that is overexposed by one and half to two stops. I had a 320ASA setting on my lightmeter, lit and kept the aperture accordingly. But in 30% of the total shot, my editor on the laptop recording the footages told me the shots were dark hence I opened up the aperture with one and half to 2 stops. After finishing the shooting, when we previewed, those shots were actually overexpoed. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Drysdale Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 You should treat this like reversal film, it's best underexposed rather than overexposed. If you can correct the overexposed material would depend if you've lost any information due to clipping. If you look at the Silicon Imaging web site you'll find tutorials on how to use their displays. Best way would be to test your camera to work out its ASA and use the histograms etc to ensure that you're not clipping your highlights once you've set your exposure from the meter. I wouldn't use a laptop screen to judge exposure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Rodriguez Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 I agree, with Brian here, the laptop screen is a bad idea for exposure, especially gamma accuracy, unless you KNOW that it's calibrated properly. So that is why we've offered so many exposure tools in our software. You have a histogram, a false-color zone metering system, and a spot meter. The ASA of the camera it it's default 10-bit LOG state is around ISO250 for 3200K lighting, although you can push it to around ISO320 and use a .look 3D LUT and the internal color-corrector's non-destructive gamma/offset/gain controls to normalize the brightness to proper levels without incurring a noise-hit (again, it's non-destructive, so you can always reverse it in post). But definitely if you opened up another 2 f-stops from a nominal ISO320 exposure you're gonna start clipping quite a bit . . . at that point you only have around 3.5 f-stops or slightly less from middle grey to white clip (normally exposed at ISO250 you would have 4.7, and at ISO320 you get a little over 5 f-stops from middle-grey to white clip). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deepak Bajracharya Posted September 5, 2007 Author Share Posted September 5, 2007 Thank you very much for the suggestions. My editor said the shots looked okey in the post. Actually I didnot have time for the prep so I had to go like this. These references will prove benificial for the future. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deepak Bajracharya Posted September 5, 2007 Author Share Posted September 5, 2007 I didnot have any professional monitor during shooting besides the touchscreen and laptop. Used set of Illumina primes, 12mm lens slightly vignetted at the left side of the frame. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Rodriguez Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 Do you have a newer camera with the P+S Technik design or one of the older prototypes? We've been using a 12mm Zeiss Superspeed and there is no vignetting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deepak Bajracharya Posted September 16, 2007 Author Share Posted September 16, 2007 Do you have a newer camera with the P+S Technik design or one of the older prototypes? We've been using a 12mm Zeiss Superspeed and there is no vignetting. This is one of the older prototypes with PL mount. Thank you. Regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch Gross Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 On the old prototype design there was an inner mounting ring which would cause the vignetting. It's a problem on some zooms as well. That's why it's called a prototype. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deepak Bajracharya Posted September 22, 2007 Author Share Posted September 22, 2007 Namaste Mitch, I understood this. Just curious, I have used the 8mm and 9.5mm primes as well but they didnot vignette. thanks and regards, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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