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Constructing China Balls


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I like China balls for a lot of reasons. I normally use the medium and large ikea balls and yes, wattage is based on the socket you put in them. On those plastic ones Ikea sells; I'd not really want to go too high of watt. if you can find nice ceramic ones, then I can see around 300 watts in them pretty well.

You might want to put some diffusion material over the bottom hole of the china ball to get rid of the hot spot which comes through there and soften it up.

They're very nice as a soft wrap source. I often bang them off of a C-stand's arm and boom out as a fill light.

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Ive used the Lantern Lock Version with a vertical strip of 3 FAY lights, measuring around 1500w. It was a 3 foot chinaball. Worked just fine. In other ones, we had 1k bulbs and 500w. The main problem with the is controlling their spread, which means keeping tons of scrap duvytyne on standby and maintaining them since they are so fragile. There is a purposed for them though.

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China balls are good for beer gardens and student films.

 

I think the wattage is a function of the socket of the cord. You can definitely get a 250w bulb in one.

 

That's a brave statement when you'd be hard pressed to find an electric crew that doesn't carry at least a few of them.

 

To the OP: You can go to homedepot and get a cheap extension cord and porcelain socket and wire them yourself. They're super easy to do. If you really want lots of punch, you can order the type of 2-pin socket that is in smaller fresnel fixtures so you can get a 500W lamp in a larger china ball. If you do that, make sure to be careful with it, though. There is a pretty serious danger of setting the thing on fire if you're not careful.

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Yeah, I've been seeking controversy ever since I read that Norman Mailer article in the New Yorker!

 

I've used chinese lanterns many times, and they are certainly an effective, low-cost, way to light a space, but I hate all the "fixing" (scraps of duve, etc.) they demand once you try to make them an actual source.

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Yeah, I've been seeking controversy ever since I read that Norman Mailer article in the New Yorker!

 

I've used chinese lanterns many times, and they are certainly an effective, low-cost, way to light a space, but I hate all the "fixing" (scraps of duve, etc.) they demand once you try to make them an actual source.

 

I know a gaffer who bailing-wires them to the bottom of a table-topped flag. Once that is done skirting it seems much quicker and easier.

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Guest Evan Pierre
China balls are good for beer gardens and student films.

 

I think the wattage is a function of the socket of the cord. You can definitely get a 250w bulb in one.

 

To OP be sure that you have porcelain sockets for the bulbs, plastic can melt.

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China balls are good for beer gardens and student films.

 

I think the wattage is a function of the socket of the cord. You can definitely get a 250w bulb in one.

 

Every gaffer I've worked with carries them. I use them all the time on commercial productions.

 

You can go above 150w, but you need ceramic bases as mentioned. Also, they are an extreme fire hazzard. You should make sure you have an extinguisher handy, especially if you aren't using something like a lantern lock. It's very very easy for the bulb to come in contact with the paper and then you've got a BIG problem.

 

They are a great and unique light source. Especially handy because they are light and quick to rig and are great for steadicam walk-alongs. They do tend to spray the light around a bit though.

 

 

jb

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You might want to put some diffusion material over the bottom hole of the china ball to get rid of the hot spot which comes through there and soften it up.

 

If using the paper or silk china balls, I'd be a bit nervous about covering the holes at the top and/or bottom because of the fire risk. Try running the china ball (with the top and bottom holes open) and notice how much air moves up through the china ball. I would have thought that most tungsten lamps would get dangerously hot without that airflow.

 

Given that the original poster was talking about making "DIY" china balls, has anyone tried building their own china balls using fluorescent fittings? I'm thinking of somehow suspending a single fluorescent tube (with a protective plastic sheath) inside a china ball for a really soft, cool-running lamp (but, granted, it won't output a huge amount of light).

 

Many thanks,

Jack

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I can see that being an issue; but, at the same time; I don't think with a smaller bulb and just covering the bottom hole it'll be a problem. I normally don't run over a 200W in my balls, i mean they are only paper and so far no fire/burning smell. It helps to have the biggest ball you can; of course, to keep the bulb away from the sides and also allow all that airspace to help keep things cool. Though you do well bring up something to be mindful of.

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I've been looking around and it seems ceramic bulb holder are readily available from reptile supply shops. I think I might modify ordinary lamps for use as practical and motivated lights. Do you know any bulbs that'll produce less heat and still supply about 150 - 250 watts of light?

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I am wondering about if anyone built a china ball that is wireless meaning battery driven? I am thinking of using it as a fill in some exterior shots where i am moving alot with the actors (hand held) cu but they are walking through a big area that i cant control by lighting it..low budget school project.. there are street lights but as they go in and out of them its pitch black...

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  • 10 years later...

Is it a very bad choice to use cfl bulbs? 

I am preparing for my first commercial that I need to light using soft lights, or bounced hard light. To cut expenses in renting, as I have no lights, I thought of constructing 2x 60cm china balls with a 85W or 125W cfl in each.

What do you think? Is the color rendition of a CFL so much worse than renting an aputure 120d/300d, or equivalent led, or 1k/2k Arri fresnel with CTB gel?

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Most CFL is kind of crap.

And aside from that the output it kind of crap.

But, they can and will work in a pinch. It does depend on which CFL bulb. I have used the Kino branded ones, and they worked fine.

For LED, Quasar has bulbs which work find, and in the past Cree made a good 100W equiv 6000K LED which worked fine.  The problem is, with CFL and LED, is that there are so many out there now you really need to test which-ever one you'd going to get on camera.

I would say (and though I'm not a huge fan of the 120/300d) If it's a paid gig, i would 100% get one of them, or go with a 2K Gelled. Or even renting older Kino Flos, which seem to be able to be had for a song (as everyone in LA seems to be throwing them away) would be a better choice.

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