Premium Member Jason Anderson Posted November 26, 2008 Premium Member Share Posted November 26, 2008 I am interested in shooting a 3d film on 16mm, any suggestions as to what cameras I should use or if you know of some titles that were shot on 16mm or 8mm and what technique was used. jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Millar Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 I am interested in shooting a 3d film on 16mm, any suggestions as to what cameras I should use or if you know of some titles that were shot on 16mm or 8mm and what technique was used. jason Unsure why this is in the Bolex forum, but if you want to do 3D you'll xtal synced cameras to keep temporal lag to a minimum. The general profile of a wind up with a motor is too wide in that when it is put next to another for the required parallax is a little too far apart for optimum separation - the EL and EBM models may work well however, especially the EBM which is the thinner of the two. I suppose you only need one EBM (on the left from behind) the other can be whatever as long as it is xtal synced and has the same lenses etc. The way around using just one camera is having it sideways to the action with two front surface mirrors at 90deg (well, actually 80 something and 90 something degrees). Probably better cameras suited to it - but hey, this is the Bolex forum ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Neary Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 Bolex made a 3D attachment for their cameras, I suspect it's a bit hard to find these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Jason Anderson Posted November 26, 2008 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 26, 2008 Thanks for the responses, yeah, there is a lens attachment that splits the frame into two parts, Does anyone know the work flow for such a setup? http://www.retrothing.com/2006/08/3d_bolex_16mm_m.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member David Auner aac Posted November 27, 2008 Premium Member Share Posted November 27, 2008 Thanks for the responses, yeah, there is a lens attachment that splits the frame into two parts, Does anyone know the work flow for such a setup? http://www.retrothing.com/2006/08/3d_bolex_16mm_m.html IIRC you put the attachment on the camera when you shoot. The film is processed normally (I think) and when you project it, you put the same attachment on the projector. There is some info that thingie in Andrew Alden's Bolex Bible. If you want more info I could look it up for you. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Simon Wyss Posted November 27, 2008 Premium Member Share Posted November 27, 2008 I have one or two of the simple Kern C-mount stereo lenses, not the projection lens. I did some trial work in 3-D about 15 years ago. It is quite fascinating. Now, if you're on the chase for such optics, try to get hold of the "big" Bolex-Kern stereo lens which is the one with a circular housing front. In it there are two sets of prisms that allow shooting closer and close-up. In a third position you have no prisms in front of the openings so that the lenses look parallel forward. The paired lenses are 5.6 mm apart (two simple coated Yvar triplets 12.5-2.8, fixed focus at 3 m or 10 ft.). The stereo base is 64 mm. One set of prisms will allocate the view on 3½ feet, the other provides for 2 feet. Domestic stereo lenses were given the inscription Kern-Paillard Stereo, those for export Bolex Stereo. A protruding 11 mm diameter bushing must be set on the camera turret instead of the washer under the central fastening screw. The project started in 1950. First devices came to the shops in 1953. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Jason Anderson Posted November 27, 2008 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 27, 2008 IIRC you put the attachment on the camera when you shoot. The film is processed normally (I think) and when you project it, you put the same attachment on the projector. There is some info that thingie in Andrew Alden's Bolex Bible. If you want more info I could look it up for you. Cheers, Dave Thanks, that makes sense, but if I wanted a digital copy as well, may be more tricky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Jason Anderson Posted November 27, 2008 Author Premium Member Share Posted November 27, 2008 I have one or two of the simple Kern C-mount stereo lenses, not the projection lens. I did some trial work in 3-D about 15 years ago. It is quite fascinating. Now, if you're on the chase for such optics, try to get hold of the "big" Bolex-Kern stereo lens which is the one with a circular housing front. In it there are two sets of prisms that allow shooting closer and close-up. In a third position you have no prisms in front of the openings so that the lenses look parallel forward. The paired lenses are 5.6 mm apart (two simple coated Yvar triplets 12.5-2.8, fixed focus at 3 m or 10 ft.). The stereo base is 64 mm. One set of prisms will allocate the view on 3½ feet, the other provides for 2 feet. Domestic stereo lenses were given the inscription Kern-Paillard Stereo, those for export Bolex Stereo. A protruding 11 mm diameter bushing must be set on the camera turret instead of the washer under the central fastening screw. The project started in 1950. First devices came to the shops in 1953. Thank you for the info What do you think about syncing two bolexs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Simon Wyss Posted November 27, 2008 Premium Member Share Posted November 27, 2008 Why not, lab gets twice the footage to work on . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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