Mahesh Shimpi Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Hello All, I am not sure if this topic has been discussed on this forum before. If it has been please guide me to the correct thread. I am making a short film that is entirely setup with a night backdrop around a campfire. Never tried this kind of filming before. I would appreciate all the ideas/feedback to show me how to light up such a set. I am specifically looking for cheap/creative way of doing it. I was able to get a good light from the campfire itself, but would be interested in knowing how to create the moonlight effect effectively. I own a Lowell's 44 piece light kit. Will that suffice? If not what is the minimum I have to do to get it right. The location I will be working at has plenty of trees so moonlight cannot be lighting up entire area. Thanks Mahesh Shimpi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Savige Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 I too would like to know this. Has anyone tried bouncing light into Lee 272 (soft gold reflector)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian dart Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 (edited) hi, for fire effects check out www.magicgadgets.com i used 2 of their 2k flicker dimmers for the camp fire scenes on "van diemans land". you can select flicker speed and intensity, lowest light level to highest level and it randomly flickers between the two. with one running to two 200 watt globes covered with full cto, and one running to another two 200 watt globes...hidden around the campfire and cut from camera by blackwrap i also had a readhead with full cto thru a 4 x 4 half white dif as an ambient it gives a very realistic fire light effect. i also had a 1.2 hmi punched thru the background for a moonlight effect. hope this makes sense.... most gaffers will have these flicker dimmers so you could possibly hire a couple. hope this helps. cheers, ian Edited June 24, 2009 by ian dart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mahesh Shimpi Posted June 27, 2009 Author Share Posted June 27, 2009 Thanks Ian. That surely is helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delorme Jean-Marie Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 hi if you light with only the fire i'll be : natural, low level, redish, high contrast and hard shadows now my advice would be to lower the contast, cool a bit the color and level up the scene. i'd try to keep the natural effect of the flames rather than to use a flicker box. don't try to light the fire itself, it's useless. for close ups you can cheat the fire with a torch close to the actor. my advice, breif the set decorator to bring a lot of wood to burn 'cause you'll need to keep the fire at the same level of intensity for 8 hours. i just lit a scene at night in an oasis in the desert with 3 fires, 3 tents 20 people, a palm tree oasi and the sand dunes..... it was tuff. I had 2X10K 3X 2K 3X 1K and 1 X 4X4 all tungsten i'll let you see as soon as the footage is edited i was at 500 asa T2,8 with the 5d2 canon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mahesh Shimpi Posted July 1, 2009 Author Share Posted July 1, 2009 Great! thanks....I liked the idea of holding a torch close enough to the subject on the close-up shots Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elliot Rudmann Posted July 1, 2009 Share Posted July 1, 2009 (edited) Great! thanks....I liked the idea of holding a torch close enough to the subject on the close-up shots I'm sure the actor(s) will love that too, especially when there's a gust of wind :rolleyes: I'd play it more cautious, let the fire's natural flicker do its work, and just manipulate the supplemental lighting for close ups. Edited July 1, 2009 by Elliot Rudmann Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian dart Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 (edited) hi not sure if having actors sit around a roaring fire is a good idea those things put out some serious heat. and keeping it consistant for 8 hours would be hard work. i found that the light put out by the fire was overshadowed by the ambient at the stop the dop wanted. two flicker boxes running out of sequence looked better than the real flames. and once it was set up you dont have to reset for the close ups the complete set up was run off one small genny. cheers ian Edited July 2, 2009 by ian dart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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