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Noob - Soft bedroom Scene on a small budget


Guest jeff

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David,

I think I like Primo lenses. The grain is so smooth here. I rarely hear cine-

matographers talk about texture here on the forum. I like the texture here

that has been created with your lighting set up. The third shot of girl leaning

over twin is awesome. He almost appears to have "butterfly" lighting on his

face but seen form side(profile) with camera slightly higher than him. I like

the tightness of the frame,its powerful! I would love to light women like this.

Thank you David for sharing your craft,art with us.

 

 

Greg

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I haven't built the softboxes personally myself but usually they use porcelain sockets and lightbulbs in a grid pattern on strips of wood (the outer box is foamcore); a bunch of 250 watt worklights in the softbox may be overkill for video.

 

12" deep will probably work but 16" may be better.

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Happy New Year everyone!

Yes, I agree David, I plan on starting tests with different setups (kinos, large softboxes and bounced light) next week.

 

If I make the large softboxes that I mentioned above (2- 4' X 6' units that can be combined), how deep should I make it? I was thinking about 12". I was considering putting in a lot of 250W worklights (1 about every 1.5 square foot). The frame would allow for relatively fast sheet changes to as well. I was planning on muslin and bedsheets as the materials to try first.

 

Do you think this is worth trying?

 

Does anyone know if the is a Kelvin difference between quartz worklights and Halogen "Par" spot/flood lights?

 

Do you mean muslin and bed sheets for diffusing in front of it ? If so you'd better use diffusion that are designed for it at this distance (216, 250...) It won't make such a big difference on the look and you'll get more "power", and no hassle in seting and problems it might burn.

 

12" = 1' deep sounds fine to me. mind that the inside surface is white as to reflect the light.

 

Pars and quartz are supposed to be 3200 K If you use dimmable light, mind the temperature decreases when you dimm them.

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Jeff,

I wasn't sure what you had in mind for a bedroom scene,what mood?

Creatively in my mind I was thinking about a woman lying on the bed

in a satin slip. Man along side of her with shirt un-buttoned at top and

tie loosened. Appropriate color of tie for scene,color of image. He's in

boxer shorts and still has his socks on. They are holding hands. I would

use large soft lights,but problem is that I have in mind a slightly cool look,

slightly blue, so as not to make it sexy. I would then like to use a practical

on bedside stand to light woman's face. I would want light to fall off below

breast line of woman,so that it did not light the rest of the satin slip(rest of

slip would just be lit by fill). I would light the man with just fill thrown back

from a reflector. Problem is that of lighting woman with practical and still

maintaining the slightly blue,cool look. Well this was just a creative idea

and of course would have to fit the mood of scene,story. I always have

these lighting ideas going through my head and no matter where I'm at I

like to look at the lights available and try to figure out how to light a scene

at that particular place.

Greg

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Ok.. Ill address this then...

 

Pimping, Do no harm, Someone elses problem>

 

I assume that the comment regarding "cinema snobs" may refer to me since I was harsh to the original poster of this thread.

 

Pimping is the process where someone plays helpless so as to get as much as possible out if the willing, saving themselves time and money with no return to the folks who extended themselves.

 

This "noob" character is pimping the forum in my opinion.

Do no harm: This guy is a train wreck waiting to happen. There is no point in participating in the creation of more crap being imposed upon us over the airwaves.

Someone elses problem: I mentioned on another thread I was GM at a large Post Production facility (two edit suites, two drive in stages, 15 employees) in the early 90's. I saw and had to deal with this type of "client". They waste lots of time, you have to sort out their mess, they never want to pay and they never come back if you force them too.

 

This is an act overtly or covertly , taking advantage of the good nature and tendency to help of a group of folks who inhabit this list.

 

This DIY clown and will end up on someones doorstep asking for even more help, maybe yours.  A TV Spot is one of a number of elements required for a successful Television compaign. The folks who handle media buying and placement would laugh at this guy.    The last direct response TV Commercial I did had a test run which cost 25K for 125 spots on Discovery/TLC/Animal Planet/Trio over 10 days. If this guy can't afford a couple of lights how can he afford to even a test run.

 

If anyone on this list wants to examine my credentials email me and I will give you acces to my ftp demo site.  I suppose I could post a picture of the two dozen or more telly, mobius, clio awards but there in a box somehere in the garage and I am editing today

 

Im simply asking how to make the lighting on a simple shot using homemade lighting equipment... thats all.

 

I help out people all the time in my line of work (computers) for free. Its really no biggie... except to people like you I guess. too bad.

 

The test marketing we plan on doing will be based on localized cable TV late-night rotators in a single city due to the business plan. We are not markteting something that can be delivered to our customers by UPS... so our marketing must be rolled out city-by-city. This is not a national campaign.

 

We are trying to save our startup costs by producing a simple ad with simple effects... I want to produce a nice-looking ad but we dont expect clio's.

 

I have written patents, learned plastics molding, worked in 3D programs, performed programming, worked in AUTO CAD, used premier on a limited basis, as well as other things. I have the capabilities to learn the skills I need to produce this ad (and yes the post as well) without it being a "trainwreck". Things have changed since the early 90's... people have the opportunity to produce thier own work now without being depending on specialized equipment like you had access to.

 

Im sure your experience is extensive and thats great. There are some nice folks trying to help me out of good will and that is a very nice thing to do nowadays.

 

Thank you for spitting in their faces for the efforts of trying to help someone.

 

Have fun flaming me to death... I will ignore anything you feel so compelled to add from this point on.

 

Jeff Del Vecchio

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Guest Andy Sparaco
The test marketing we plan on doing will be based on localized cable TV late-night rotators in a single city due to the business plan. We are not markteting something that can be delivered to our customers by UPS... so our marketing must be rolled out city-by-city. This is not a national campaign.

 

 

Your local cable company will produce a TV commercial for you for free or almost no cost. Why waste your own time and money to do what you could have done for free. While it may not be creative extravaganza it will be Broadcast "legal" and will have your name spelled properly

 

Why don't you go and pimp them and then you'll be ready to do your own commercial, or maybe wise up and focus your time on activity on getting your product ready for market. Maybe have some business cards printed.

 

Regardless of how many patents, how smart you are to DIY your own commercial always ends up the same way- a debacle. There is no one in this entire forum who considers their first project to be worth even remembering. If your product is so good do it a favor and get it some help.

 

I'm doing you a favor by delivering some news you don't want to hear.

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Do you mean muslin and bed sheets for diffusing in front of it ? If so you'd better use diffusion that are designed for it at this distance (216, 250...)

 

Yes, I forgot to mention that -- bedsheets are too dense for softbox diffusion. I'd get something like 216 or if not, "tracing" paper (1000H paper).

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From Laurent -

 

Do you mean muslin and bed sheets for diffusing in front of it ? - Yes

 

If so you'd better use diffusion that are designed for it at this distance (216, 250...) It won't make such a big difference on the look and you'll get more "power", and no hassle in seting and problems it might burn. -OK, Thanks laurent... I plan on using fans to dissiapte the heat... the sound used wont be from the stage.

 

12" = 1' deep sounds fine to me. mind that the inside surface is white as to reflect the light. - OK, thanks

 

Pars and quartz are supposed to be 3200 K If you use dimmable light, mind the temperature decreases when you dimm them. -Got it... thanks for clearing that up.

 

Thanks for the idea too Gregg, I do want to have some practicals on the nightstands adding a little light. I guess I will need some bounced light in addition to the softbox.

 

 

From David-Yes, I forgot to mention that -- bedsheets are too dense for softbox diffusion. I'd get something like 216 or if not, "tracing" paper (1000H paper). Thanks David.

 

Jeff

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Great.  Another round of wonderful and insightful replies from people who act like this is cinema-"snobbery".com. 

 

John,

 

Looks to me like it was just Mr. Sparco's comments that weren't positive.

 

I agree with you though. There have been surpisingly beautiful photographs taken using household bulbs, or hardware store flo units. Pro lights save time, but if you've got a lot of time to play, you can learn how to control light without spending any money.

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Guest Andy Sparaco
John,

 

Looks to me like it was just Mr. Sparco's comments that weren't positive.

 

I agree with you though. There have been surpisingly beautiful photographs taken using household bulbs, or hardware store flo units. Pro lights save time, but if you've got a lot of time to play, you can learn how to control light without spending any money.

 

 

I was unaware expressing a different opinion other then one which is "positive" was a requirement of this forum. My apologies I will delete myself form the forum.

 

Ba Bye

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I was unaware expressing a different opinion other then one which is "positive" was a requirement of this forum.

 

Positive opinions are not required, they're just more helpful.

 

Your input and experience here is valuable, but your posts in this thread seemed a bit harsh. For example you said that a google search for lighting supply near Bend, OR returned results, but you didn't include them in your thread.

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From Laurent -

I plan on using fans to dissiapte the heat... the sound used wont be from the stage.

 

Jeff

 

No need for such a thing. Just make cuts in the box so that the air circulates well from down to up. But don't put more than 2500 W for each box (Just say this because the soft boxes I have in this size are 2500 W, don't know what would happen if more power was used...) Also, if you put several lamps inside, you can put a switch for each or every couple of lamp, that will help you controlling the power...

 

I actually wonder that someone already posted a thread about building such devices, if I am correct. Just perform a research on this site as well as on studentfilmmakers.

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Guest Andy Sparaco
Positive opinions are not required, they're just more helpful.

 

If this was the the Brain Surgery Forum you would positively suggest DIY Brain Surgery?

 

This fellow does himself and his product a disservice. He is least likely to create an effective TV Commercial for his product. Those are the positive facts known by anyone with experience in the TV Spot Business.

 

What is the best course of action facilitate a costly mistake or speak the harsh truth.

 

Please delete my membership

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No need for such a thing. Just make cuts in the box so that the air circulates well from down to up. But don't put more than 2500 W for each box (Just say this because the soft boxes I have in this size are 2500 W, don't know what would happen if more power was used...) Also, if you put several lamps inside, you can put a switch for each or every couple of lamp, that will help you controlling the power...

 

I actually wonder that someone already posted a thread about building such devices, if I am correct. Just perform a research on this site as well as on studentfilmmakers.

 

I looked fairly extensively in this forum (lighting) for something that pertained to what I am trying to do but only found one that was in the "ballpark". It had some good info, but I wanted to start a new thread to develop more detail.

 

Thanks for the pointers on the wattage, Laurent, I will keep that guideline in mind. I was thinking about 1500W for each 4 X 6 section so I dont pop any circut breakers. I wont be using a generator.

Do you think that 1500W is enough for that size of box?

 

I will use the idea of using multiple switches (or dimmers) for more control as well.

 

Thanks,

 

Jeff

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1500 w as a basic unit sounds great to me. You know these softbox we have at our school and that are very common have two lamps. 1250 W each, with its own switch. Again, mind with dimmers that the color temperature decreases.

 

Yes, I got that Laurent...thanks.

 

I was thinking of using 6 - 250W lights per box with 3 dimmers in each box. (each dimmer would control 2 lights).

The thought was to dim some of the bulbs and leave the others at full power.

 

As I dimm the lights and the tempurature decreases, would that make the scene more red/yellow? Kind of a warming effect?

 

Thanks

Jeff

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As I dimm the lights and the tempurature decreases, would that make the scene more red/yellow? Kind of a warming effect?

 

exactly - that can be interesting though, for this kind of scene, so you don't have to gel the sources to get something warm, but power and color temperature will be linked...

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This is a long thread and I may have missed something, but earlier Mr Mullen mentioned Chinese lanterns.

I love working with these. Give me a SB & honeycomb, and a single CL and I'll make beautiful 2 light pix any time. Our young friend might want to check these things out..

 

DinoG

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You could also cut a blind pattern out Black wrap or card board and use it as your key with a 1K...even less.

 

It doesn't have to be blinds, but it can cut down the light coming in as well. Get a nice colored gel if you desire and you are golden.

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  • 4 months later...
Here's a bedroom scene in "Twin Falls Idaho" that I lit with two 4' 4-bank Kinos with 1/2 CTO, placed end to end, on a "menace arm" (a speedrail pipe cantilevered from a combo stand). I wanted a soft backlight on the bed that covered their bodies from head to toe, hence why I needed the two Kinos end to end. I was planning on using a Chinese Lantern but I figured I'd be spending all my time flagging it off of the back wall, but that would have been lighter and easier to float over the bed. 35mm Fuji F-250T, Primo lenses.

...

 

David, such impressive images. Did you use any diffusion on the lens?

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This is how you can get a Look on No Budget situation...

Do not coveer the windows

- Stretch black nylon stocking over the lens to soften the image

- Balance your camera to Tugsten

- Set your F-sto to reuired level as looking through viewfinder

- Use one light from window direction with blue gel on it for directional moonlight

 

make sure your moonlight light creates a narrow shaft of light rather then going broadly

 

 

http://www.lightextreme.com/

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This is to answer a post about buying lights at home depo-

 

I'm a couple of years late on this post, but the home depo or any other stores like that have good lights. You can get the work lights for about 8 bucks. That was 8 0r 10 years ago. But the work lights have a bracket on the bottom for setting on the floor. And the lights can be positioned while the bracket remains stationary. Take a saw and cut the bracket in half. Take one end of the bracket off the light keeping the other end still attached. The inside of the bracket is hollow. You can shove the end of a light stand up in it. Then, keeping the light attached to the bracket, you can still position it while the bracket remains stationary on the light stand. I made three of these. And bought two other ones to leave on the floor. I shot one or two shorts using them and made them black and white. It wouldn't be a good idea for the commercial unless it was black and white, make sure you have even light, then soften it in Pro. People might make fun of you though.

Edited by kelly tippett
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