Recommended Light Meters

[Guest Daniel J. Ashley-Smith]

So far I have saved £200 and I'm looking around for a real pro light meter. (Not that I'm a pro, but what the hell, I've got to spend this money on SOMETHING film related)

 

I know the real descent light meters go up to like 500, but I am willing to save, IF it's worth it.

 

What light meters do you guys use? Personally I need something that can do both cine and video, although I don't won?t all those extra features that only cost more, i.e. flash meters e.t.c.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks,

Dan.

[John Ealer]

So far I have saved £200 and I'm looking around for a real pro light meter. (Not that I'm a pro, but what the hell, I've got to spend this money on SOMETHING film related)

 

I know the real descent light meters go up to like 500, but I am willing to save, IF it's worth it.

 

What light meters do you guys use? Personally I need something that can do both cine and video, although I don't won?t all those extra features that only cost more, i.e. flash meters e.t.c.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Thanks,

Dan.

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Spectra IVA incident

Minolta Spotmeter F spot.

 

Both are rugged and reliable. If you're just starting, it might be worth looking into a single combined unit to save a bit of money, but I personally like having the incident and spot meters separate...perhaps just out of habit.

 

J

[Glenn Hanns]

The seconic L508 is a great meter for a beginner, It doesnt give you shutter angle variants to your stop but anyone can calculate these.

[Mark Sasahara]

I have been using my trusty Minolta Flash Meter IV for many years. I had a Pentax spot Meter V, but now I've got the Pentax Digital Spotmeter. I don't really use it that much.

 

Good meters, in no particular order. Some are Cine only, most are primarily Stills, but can do cine/video. Prices in $USD @ B&H Photo:

 

Konica Minolta Auto Meter VF $219.95 Stills and cine, flash

Spectra Pro IV-A $372 .95 Cine only, no flash

Gossen Digipro F $243.95 Stills and cine/video. Flash

Luna Pro Digital $210.00 Stills and cine/video. Flash

Konica Minolta Flash Meter 6 $429.95 Stills and cine, flash

 

I have left some out, the more expensive Sekonic and Gossen Meters. Do your research and find out more about these and other meters so you will know the differences and which ones will suit you needs. Handle the meters and try them out, how do thy feel and which feels best? What are the features you want? There is no substitute for doing the research. You can also get used, but take it to a good meter repair place that can accurately calibrate and check it.

[Mark Sasahara]

There is also the good old Sekonic L-398 Studio

Someone else is talking about meters too

http://www.cinematography.com/forum2004/in...?showtopic=4691 . I must say I like it, but a lot of my students had no clue and were initially very confused, but this was for a beginning photoclass, not really gung ho photo/cine phreaks.

[Rik Andino]

There is also the good old Sekonic L-398 Studio

Someone else is talking about meters too

http://www.cinematography.com/forum2004/in...?showtopic=4691 . I must say I like it, but a lot of my students had no clue and were initially very confused, but this was for a beginning photoclass, not really gung ho photo/cine phreaks.

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The L398 was the first meter I learn to use back in school

It took me about 3 days to learn how to use it

(It took me a little longer to really learn how to use it...

Or better yet to learn how to control exposures and measure everything)

 

Not to demean your students they should be fine individuals ( I dunno)

But I feel the L398 is fairly easy you've got a mind of the technical aspects of film.

[Rik Andino]

The seconic L508 is a great meter for a beginner, It doesnt give you shutter angle variants to your stop but anyone can calculate these.

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The L508cine (which is the one I have) allows you to change the shutter angle

It's a pretty cool trick...

Check the manual maybe the standard L508 has that same function

It's just a complicated combination of numbers too difficult to always remember.

 

But if you find it--it's cool :)

[Morgan Peline]

Minolta has now come out with the Flashmeter VI combined spot and incident:

 

http://kmpi.konicaminolta.us/eprise/main/k.../Flash_Meter_VI

 

I want one!

[Dan Salzmann]

Very stylish but it does not offer variable shutter angle readings or readings in lux and footcandles all of which are offered by the Sekonic 508C.

[Greg Gross]

For three days this week I shot 16mm and used my Spectra 4A with very

good results,keep in mind though that I'm a professional photographer. I

like this meter a lot and I think that most of the time it will be my choice.

At times I may want to use a spot meter. As you know with close-ups and

medium close-ups you'll have concern for proper skin tone. I'm speaking

now of facial tones. Taking the meter reading from the subjects face must

be done correctly for good results. The meter has to be close enough and

you have to position it so that other areas are out of the meter's view. You

do not want to block light from the meter or cast shadows on the meter. My

Spectra 4A is straight out of the box, I've only used it for dv,this was first

time for film. I was very pleased with the dailies(b&w) skin tones were where

I wanted them to be. Now of course I practiced good technique with the read-

ings. I might add that for some of the scenes the "eye of the photographer"

would have been acceptable. All of my associates(like me) favor seperate

meters. Combined meters are not very popular in my circles, please be ad-

vised that with a combined meter; try it out before you buy it. I'm not saying

they are bad,however sometimes not convienent to use. I'll be shooting more

next week and comparing my eye to the meter. I do own a Minolta F spotmeter

and I'm very pleased with it. I guess that most of the time I'd be shooting at

175 or 180 shutter angle. Some meters have cine scales marked in fps and

the 24fps(maybe boldly printed). The scale is marked in fps, 64,32,16 etc. .

Of course you know at 24fps you have 1/50(rounded off for the scientist).

Once you have your fstop you can set the lens. Most of the time you do not

have to be more precise than 1/3 of a stop. Best regards and good luck find-

a meter for you that works,pleasure for you to use.

 

Greg Gross

[Chris Keth]

If you would be interested, I'm looking fo sell my Gossen Luna Pro Digital F meter. I just bought a spectra and just don't need it. I've had it for a year and it's had very, very light use (no pun intended).

 

I'm looking for $150 ish since it's nearly new.

[Yusuf Aslanyurek]

Pentax V and minolta F is measuring infra zone up too 1200nm

sekonic dual spot F is expensive but is best by sensivity. its sensitive up to 1100 but less than minolta. (lux)

I've made test by special machine which is giving light waves

I dont know whats name in english, in russian; spectraphotometer.

 

minolta is cheat and good, but if you will buy it you have to put IR cutoff filter.

[Kevin Zanit]

That?s the difference between the 508 and the 508C. The C has cine features (like shutter angle, etc) that the other does not.

 

There have been a few threads in the past with this question, so if you search I posted a more informative answer in one of those.

 

Kevin Zanit

[Yusuf Aslanyurek]

better don't buy cine models if its have big diffirence $$$

easly you can calculate all this things (e.g. fps, shutter angle)

better to buy best by spectral sensivity and comfortable one.

[Kevin Zanit]

I don?t know about the above advice.

 

If you have worked at the end of a long day, you would know doing math is the last thing you want to do. It?s true that most of these things are simple, but one error and you just cost production more than the difference in your meter?s cost.

 

I have done stuff with like a 200 degree shutter, at 48fps, with a filter requiring a 2/3 stop compensation. I can do all the above in my head, but it?s a lot easier to dial it into my meter, and then every reading I take has all that done for me.

 

 

Kevin Zanit

[Yusuf Aslanyurek]

yes kevin but because of this you cannot make this big errors,

for example to shoot 48fps you will open 1 stop, even if you will not open it will not be this error which is will cost a spotmeter :)

if you have money enough buy sekonic 778 its calculating also fps.

[Kevin Zanit]

I don?t want to risk a one stop under error. If you are already playing it risky, then add a stop under you can be royally screwed.

 

Consider also that most people's metering technique is not always dead on either (mine including).

 

I used a 508C, the price difference from the 508 to the 508C is minor. This meter is for cinematography after all.

 

 

Kevin Zanit

[J. Lamar King IMPOSTOR]

I gotta side with Kevin on this. I find it better to have the meter do the calculation if at all possible. My mind is usually preocupied thinking about the relative footcandles in various parts of the scene. I like to preset it ahead of time and not worry about it.

 

I used the 508C for a few years but I've now gone to two seperate meters. I'm not too embarassed to admit that I've been tripped up a few too many times by not having the switch in the proper place for spot/incident. Its never caused any serious errors because I've always caught it. It's easier on my sanity to use one meter for one thing at a time. I love the Minolta spot and I'm glad I got one before they discontinued them.

Edited February 15, 2005 by J. Lamar King

[Kevin Zanit]

I messed up in my post, I said I "used", it should read "I use".

 

I like the meter a lot, but I to have been guilty of the above problem J. Lamar King refers to.

 

Every now and then I will take an incident reading with the spot switch on and the lens cap on and get error or something. I turn to the gaffer, "Um, either my meter is wrong or we got a big problem . . . " ;) and he then points to the switch.

 

It is a sight to see him (my gaffer) all "metered up" as we call it. Sekonic 558, Minolta Color III, Suunto, and flicker meter. As well as two walkies.

 

 

Kevin Zanit

[Rik Andino]

Every now and then I will take an incident reading with the spot switch on and the lens cap on and get error or something.  I turn to the gaffer, "Um, either my meter is wrong or we got a big problem . . . " ;) and he then points to the switch.

 

Kevin Zanit

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Yeah it happens to anyone who use the L508C

And this is yet another's great reason to have gaffer...

A DP I gaff for from time to time makes this mistake occasionally

And I'm always the one to save him :)

Gaffers are good.

[Sam Wells]

if you have money enough buy sekonic 778 its calculating also fps.

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I have a 778 and it's a very good meter but requires calculations - it has no 48 for instance; easy enough to figure but..... as long as they've got a microprocessor in there..... why didn't they...

 

-Sam

[J. Lamar King IMPOSTOR]

I messed up in my post, I said I "used", it should read "I use".

 

I like the meter a lot, but I to have been guilty of the above problem J. Lamar King refers to.

 

Every now and then I will take an incident reading with the spot switch on and the lens cap on and get error or something.  I turn to the gaffer, "Um, either my meter is wrong or we got a big problem . . . " ;) and he then points to the switch.

 

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It's worse if you've got the cap off and you're really reading the set wall and the exposure is a believable one!

[Kevin Zanit]

Ah, good point. That could really ruin your day.

 

I have gotten in the habit of putting the cap on all the time (I am actually not a huge spot meter user, so I run into this issue less often than some).

 

 

Kevin Zanit

[Rodrigo Llano]

I shoot the last year two sitcoms with my spectra 4A with good results. Exact measures, good handle and good reading: Just a consideration, Always have a extra battery with you, because ussually you did´t put atention in the low batery display.

Remember that the temperature conditions afect directly to the batery life...

[James Gray]

Hey man, most DOPs ive worked with use sekonic, ambiant and spot functions - these have been mentioned by others and thats not why I messaging you,

 

a dop friend of mine in sydney once told me many of the best dops carry 2 meters, and valways spare batts. as you can imagine if one meter screws up there is hell to pay if you dont notice so its all good to compare readings regulaly.

 

also buying lx meters on ebay saves a lot. but if they are abroad get them to write 'in for repare' as tax issues arrise.

 

good luck mate

 

j