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Kodak Double X 7222 advice?


TW Foley

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How do you get the most out of Double X 7222 16mm? I know it is rated at 200T/250D, but if shooting night interiors, lighting with CFLs in table and desk lamps on screen, should this stock be rated at 200? Or would it be better to rate it at 250, 320, or even 400 and have the lab push process it? I don't mind grain, but some nice contrast would be good.

 

I know it really depends on the type of look I want, but I'd like to know what each ISO setting on my light meter would result in.

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How do you get the most out of Double X 7222 16mm? I know it is rated at 200T/250D, but if shooting night interiors, lighting with CFLs in table and desk lamps on screen, should this stock be rated at 200? Or would it be better to rate it at 250, 320, or even 400 and have the lab push process it? I don't mind grain, but some nice contrast would be good.

 

I know it really depends on the type of look I want, but I'd like to know what each ISO setting on my light meter would result in.

 

Are you stuck with the Kodak? I mean, if you haven't already bought it, you might look at the Orwo stock. They've got 400 ASA, and I've seen it pushed to 800, and it looks BETTER than Double X processed normally. Honestly I quit using Double X because it just looks like crap to me.

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Are you stuck with the Kodak? I mean, if you haven't already bought it, you might look at the Orwo stock. They've got 400 ASA, and I've seen it pushed to 800, and it looks BETTER than Double X processed normally. Honestly I quit using Double X because it just looks like crap to me.

Haven't purchased any stock yet. Just wanted to get some advice on the Double x, but now that you mention it, I may look into Orwo N74. When you say 'processed normally', do you mean you rate it at 800 and don't push process it? I'm shooting mostly night interiors and night exteriors, trying to use as much available light as possible.

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Haven't purchased any stock yet. Just wanted to get some advice on the Double x, but now that you mention it, I may look into Orwo N74. When you say 'processed normally', do you mean you rate it at 800 and don't push process it? I'm shooting mostly night interiors and night exteriors, trying to use as much available light as possible.

 

TW, go to vimeo, and search for "orwo" and sort by newest. A fellow named Rob Houlihan has 1080p clips you can view and download, featuring the Orwo 100 ASA stock, shot and processed normal, and the 400 ASA rated for 800 and pushed one stop. They're very informative. It sold me on Orwo over Kodak.

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Unfortunately, i called orwo yesterday about getting some film and the guy said they didnt have any in stock and won't until next week, so I am stuck with Double X. Have you shot Double X at night and what did you rate it at?

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Unfortunately, i called orwo yesterday about getting some film and the guy said they didnt have any in stock and won't until next week, so I am stuck with Double X. Have you shot Double X at night and what did you rate it at?

 

Really? I just ordered some Sunday, and it's being shipped due in end of this week. Did you contact Orwo North American? They have a website set up where you can buy.

 

I've not shot double x at night, and honestly I wouldn't try it, at least, not without lighting. That poop is ugly even in daylight, and available light at night? Yuck. Pushing would just exaggerate the grain as well. Try youtube and searching for double x for film tests people post. Tons out there, and you can see what you're getting into.

 

I mean, for the cost you pay to push the stock, you might be better off buying 500T color, processing as normal, and doing black and white in post, that is, if you want a bit tighter grain.

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Really? I just ordered some Sunday, and it's being shipped due in end of this week. Did you contact Orwo North American? They have a website set up where you can buy.

 

I've not shot double x at night, and honestly I wouldn't try it, at least, not without lighting. That poop is ugly even in daylight, and available light at night? Yuck. Pushing would just exaggerate the grain as well. Try youtube and searching for double x for film tests people post. Tons out there, and you can see what you're getting into.

 

I mean, for the cost you pay to push the stock, you might be better off buying 500T color, processing as normal, and doing black and white in post, that is, if you want a bit tighter grain.

Yeah I talked to them yesterday evening. He said he just sold his last 400' roll and won't have any in til next week. I bought a 300 watt equivalent compact fluorescent, a 200 incandescent and a 150 CFL for lighting. Looking to buy a couple more just in case and will use them in chinese lanterns. There's streetlights too so I think I'll be OK. Definitely gonna push it to 400 though. I don't mind the grain, and I did look into shooting fast color stock and converting to b&w, but i figure, what the heck, i might as well just shoot true black and white.

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I'm glad it's not just me, I think generally DoubleX looks ghastly and I still can't understand why Kodak dropped PlusX yet kept double. *shrug* Almost everything I've seen shot on it looks a bit nasty.

 

It might be worth checking out Woody Allens Manhattan which I think is mostly 5222 and looks really nice in places. Other than that, the things I have seen that seemed to work were high contrast.

 

Good Luck!

 

love

 

Freya

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  • 4 weeks later...

How do you get the most out of Double X 7222 16mm? I know it is rated at 200T/250D, but if shooting night interiors, lighting with CFLs in table and desk lamps on screen, should this stock be rated at 200? Or would it be better to rate it at 250, 320, or even 400 and have the lab push process it? I don't mind grain, but some nice contrast would be good.

 

I know it really depends on the type of look I want, but I'd like to know what each ISO setting on my light meter would result in.

 

 

I shot a short on Double X a while ago with both controlled interior lighting and available night street exterior lighitng. I think I rated it at 160ISO just to get a slightly thicker negative. I didn't end up pushing it because I already thought it was a fairly grainy stock, especially since it hasn't been updated in forever. You'll notice the grain most when a lot of the image is in the middle gray exposure zone which I did in a restaurant scene with a lot of brick walls in the background. I think the best way to get the level of contrast you want is to control it with your lighting. I got stuff I liked when the lighting was contrasty. I'd certainly test it before deciding to push it to make sure you like the look, since it's an older stock, I wouldn't expect it to hold up as well as modern stocks.

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