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Nizo pro vs Nizo 801 macro


Julia Behm
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Would be great to get some advice on this. I just bought the Nizo professional on ebay to start shoot super8, and hasn't used it yet. Just realized that it shoots on 25 fps instead of 24 fps I'm thinking of instead finding a Nizo 810 macro since I'm planning to edit it together with my digital footage which is 24 fps. Will I see a lot of difference beetween 24fps and 25 fps when it's super8?

I've found a Nizo 810 macro much cheaper so maybe it's more worth it. Anyone with recommendations or that have experience between the two? It's also the extra light meter batteries that differs, are they easy to find?

Thanks! /Julia

 

 

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Television used to show cinema movies shot on 24 fps with 25 fps having no problem with sound or images. So the difference doesn't really matter.

Advantages of the Nizo Pro in comparison with the Nizo 801 macro:

1. The Schneider Macro Variogon lens 1,8/7-80 mm of the Nizo Pro is multicoated.

2. The Nizo Pro is equipped with a pilot tone generator for lip-sync sound with a separate recorder.

3. The Nizo Pro unlike the 801macro does NOT need extra lightmeter batteries (PX625).

Disadvantages of the Nizo Pro:

Parts of the Nizo Pro (behind the release button) are so narrow and difficult constructed, that it is very problematic to do repairs there.

Best regards

Harald

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The 24/25fps speed variation is nothing, you'll never know the difference either way.  Two of the major significant differences, aside from the professional double system sound connection port etc....is that the Pro version still has power to the camera body when the grip is folded back, providing a lower profile and center of gravity when used on a tripod.  Also the meter battery issues aren't an issue.  Your choice for meter battery power are the expensive and short lived Wein zinc air PX625 1.4 volt batteries, or buying the specially made LR44 battery shell holder which has a resister built in to drop the voltage down nearer the required 1.35 volts.   Or, you can just use the 1.5 volt batteries and use the camera mainly in manual mode.  Once you know the meter deviation due to the batteries, you can still use the built in light meter, but then just manually adjust it compensating for the difference.  Once you get used to it, it's pretty easy.   In automatic mode though, you might suffer from under-exposure.

As for editing it with your digital footage done on a digital camera, it's apples and oranges.  You can just shoot/film with the NIZO at 18fps and save film.  Once transferred it'll look just about as good as if you had shot at 24/25fps, but you'll have gained an extra 50 seconds of run time. You could always do a test and see for yourself if you'd rather shoot at 18fps or 24/25fps.

Both camera models of NIZO are well made, and unless you truly need the extras on the 801 Pro version, you might do well and save money with the 801 Macro.  Also, if you can find the external Braun Nizo power supply, or make one up yourself, you can power the camera that way when the handgrip is folded away, but the standard model doesn't have tripod sockets, so you'd have to make up a holder for that also. I have used both cameras, and still found the standard model to be quite steady when tripod mounted despite the socket being on the bottom of the handle.  Only you can decide which is best for you, and then just sell the one you don't want....usually plenty of folks that want a NIZO out there in the Super 8 world.  Hope this helps.

 

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Michael,

Thanks for your advise.

One thing I want to find out is about time exposure,  was told only Pro have B mode like taking photography,  I want  a long exposure say 15seconds or even a minutes for night sky shot,  do you know like 800 or 560 can do?

Or only Pro?


Thank you!

Kenneth

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Hi Kenneth. It's Martin, not Michael. Anyhow, the Automatic B is a nice feature and was also offered on some of the BAUER cameras.  The drawback to it, like with any automatic metering system is that as light changes, even briefly, it will adjust and thus even if you have this feature on the camera, you can turn it off and use it manually, just as on the S-480/S-481/S-560/S-561/S-800/S-801/S-801 macro/S-Pro-800/S-Pro-801. 

So, if you were to use the Automatic B, and a car whizzed by or some other light source, the camera would speed up it's time lapse run to adjust the exposure and then go back to where it was once the brief light source was gone.   This is akin to say, panning a scene and your auto-exposure darkens the sky etc because of a brighter white cloud or skyscrapper or glint off a window or rock wall on the Grand Canyon.  In manual mode, you just set the time lapse interval based on the long exposure per frame you require;  and the camera can be set for an exposure as long a one minute per frame!  All of the ones listed above.  Unless you truly need or want the Automatic-B feature, any one  of those models listed will allow a long open shutter timed exposure using the time lapse function. The fade-in/out lever is moved to the full rear position and you depress a small button to allow it to lock in place. This locks the variable shutter in the full open position. The exposure is now timed by the interval rate, which is anywhere from about 1/10th per second at the 2fps setting all the way down to a Full Minute at the 60 second interval setting.

Just use an exposure guide, your own exposure knowledge, or a good hand held light meter to determine the exposure time needed for your scene.  You can also set the aperture manually if you require more depth of field in the scene as well.  I would set the aperture manually anyhow, since any bright stray light could cause the aperture blades to move briefly due to the light meter.  I have filmed under full moon light in a courtyard using KODACHROME 40 years ago and got nice exposures.  There is so much you can do with this feature, not only for a nice long exposure of a scene, but also for those nice car light streaks on highways and elsewhere.  Only your imagination is the limit for many things.  Good luck in your decision making and future film projects in Super 8mm!

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Martin,  I am sorry,  I always short memory and easy to mixed up name,  please forgive me.

Thank you very much for your explanation and comment on those Nizo camera.  I also have a search on Bauer,  found that A512 also have the long exposure,  time interval,  and it is 1mm wider! What do you think?

I am still doing research in eBay for any suitable camera,  you given me a wider selection!

 

 

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While the BAUER cameras are pretty good to very good, those later ones which use an early CMOS chip for all the fancy features is similar to the one used in the NIZO higher end sound cameras....and sadly due to age now, many have failed or will fail.  The advantage of the earlier NIZO S-xxx cameras is that they are basically electrical/mechanical, with the only low end electronics onboard for that Automatic B function on the later ones.  You can do long exposure and time lapse quite well on the ones I stated above.  The BAUER 512 is nice, and the earlier C-Royal and D-Royal models have all kinds of features as well.  However....many of those due to age now may not work fully.  If you find one that works fine, so be it.  I still think the more servicable NIZO S-xxx might be a better option.  That extra 1mm of lens width isn't enough to persuade me.  IF you truly need ultra wide angle, just get one of the aux Ultra III lenses for it, or use the CANON Ultra Wide which works fine also, or any one of the other after market ultra wide lenses, quite affordable on eBay.  I have a BOWER which is awesome, and it's also made under other names, same lens attachment.  Or just buy a specific Super 8mm camera for ultra wide angle.  The ELMO FS-20 is 4mm at its widest, but this is a plasticky sound camera, and so often many of their later plastic bodied models have running issues or don't work at all.  Good luck in your choices, there sure are plenty.

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  • 1 month later...

I own the 801 macro but i used both and to be honest I'd change mine with the pro for a couple of reasons:

1 - the pro does not have separate batteris for the light meter although I it is not so difficult to find the light meters batteries (I use these WeinCell MRB 625 - 1.35 V)

2 - you can use the pro on a tripod without having to unfold the handle, which I find very handy

I think these are the reasons for me and from my experience that make me go for a pro but to be honest I do not know the price difference between the models. I think the price makes the distinction.

Mario

Edited by Mario Zorzi
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  • 2 years later...

I am new in Super 8 world. Nizo is my dream brand specially 801 Macro.  By the way.. I  decided to buy a Nizo 801 macro. The seller is located nearby my city. I have tested some basic functions at the time of purchase. Every function like film drive at all speed,power zoom ,exposure meter .. was fine at the beginning.  But at some point, the seller pressed the R button ( located on top of camera ) to check the dissolve function. After that, the film drive motor stopped working( but all other functions like power zoom, exposure etc. works normally)  We tried a lot , followed the instruction manual, battery reset etc. but nothing worked. Can anyone  please tell me is there any way to fix this problem? Thanks in advance. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

The R button on top is for the Dissolve Film Rewind Feature.   Normally, one you depress this, the variable shutter closes while the camera is running thus depressing the trigger continuously,  the camera stops momentarily, then rewinds the film back to the starting point.  Then to fade in over the fade out etc, you will need to depress the R button again after first pressing and holding the trigger in.  The camera will cycle thru and clear itself. If it does not, then the cycle is jammed. Sometimes playing  with it a couple times will clear it.  I hope this helps.

 

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