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What mirrorless camera fo you recommend for video?


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On 12/18/2020 at 12:01 AM, Patrick Baldwin said:

I think I have just had this flickering. I had three Z6's using exactly the same settings as part of a multicam. 5000 ISO @f5 25fps in 1080 10bit N-log. Only one of them is exhibiting this flickering! Only in the darkest scenes of the performance. It was an intimate play so they were basically looking at the same thing. Brighter scenes on the offending camera were fine. It actually looks like LED flickering but clearly isn't. Worrying if it is that random. I would be interested to hear any ideas on how to make it usable in post. I am expecting it to be unusable when I get to the edit. 

it is pretty random flickering in most cases. you will have to try to keyframe it out the best you can.  make a correction node which has just the green channel pulse adjusted out and then enable/disable it when there is a green "flicker" frame keeping it otherwise disabled. check the rgb waveform or parade to find out how much the flicker pulse lifts the green tones and how to reverse its effect.

lots of manual work but should make the shot usable and the audience will probably not notice the flicker anymore

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9 minutes ago, aapo lettinen said:

it is pretty random flickering in most cases. you will have to try to keyframe it out the best you can.  make a correction node which has just the green channel pulse adjusted out and then enable/disable it when there is a green "flicker" frame keeping it otherwise disabled. check the rgb waveform or parade to find out how much the flicker pulse lifts the green tones and how to reverse its effect.

lots of manual work but should make the shot usable and the audience will probably not notice the flicker anymore

Thanks for that. As you say a LOT of manual work. I am on FCPX so probably even harder!

Thanks again.

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On 12/25/2020 at 5:35 PM, Tomasz Brodecki said:

Those are apples and oranges, there are separate uses for small cameras (with their portability/low mass/usefulness in tight spaces) and large cameras (with complete control laid out on the body, multiple robust connectors, efficient cooling, displays, battery life etc.).
 

Because they don't make a single product from the latter category above, so there is nothing to advance to and maintain compatibility, unlike what you can do with Sony (E) and Canon (EF) systems. And as for Z-mount lenses, you can't use them on cinema cameras (unlike F-mount lenses), because of the 16mm flange-focal-distance.
 

I totally agree with this. Not to mention that even movies shot with LF nowadays end up using t-stops that negate the potential advantage (or disadvantage) in depth of focus.

I think it doesn't make much sense purchasing native Z-mount lenses.  I mean, the camera bodies themselves are not very good (I mean they are good for photography purposes but they are not top notch in any way) so it makes no sense to commit to the Z-line of cameras in the long run. In couple of years you will want to switch to another camera line and then you have lots of unusable expensive lenses in your hands which need to get rid of. 

What DOES make sense is to purchase the older Nikon F mount lenses (pretty much every model which has the mechanical aperture tab on the back of the lens's mount) . They can be adapted to most other cameras and you can use them with the Nikon Z line of cameras too with the Nikon's own adapter and have full electric controls. I am regularly using the kit zoom 24-70/4 with the Z6 when shooting making of stuff but I don't use any other Z-mount lenses or would ever want to purchase them over the NF mount ones

Edited by aapo lettinen
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1 minute ago, Patrick Baldwin said:

Thanks for that. As you say a LOT of manual work. I am on FCPX so probably even harder!

Thanks again.

I would try Resolve for the correction. or if wanting to use fcpx you could maybe make a correction LUT in Resolve for just the flicker removal and import it then to the FCPX and keyframe it there

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