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DIY Processing + S8 Pushing/Pulling


JB Guillot

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Hi everyone,

I recently got back into analog photography and (re-)discovered with interest that some of the motion picture films are used by certain photographers and even home-processed (Kodak Vision 3 series seems appreciated).

As a not-complete-beginner in home-processing for stills (mainly B&W to be honest), I see some opportunities for me discover new horizons by doing the same for S8.
Apart from the obvious question of appropriate hardware and chemicals (Internet is my friend), I was wondering if some of you guys have experience with home-processing S8 and what is your take on this ?
Are the results worth it ? Does it open some new creative opportunities for you ? Do you process your negative color stocks in C-41 or ECN-2 ? ...

Also related to processing, I was wondering how does S8 handle pushing / pulling.
To be honest I always shot S8 at box speed because of the extra costs involved when pushing/pulling film in most regular labs.
Up to now I've always shot daylight and outdoors but I came across situations where the max box speed available in my bag was not enough to get proper exposure (overcast days in the woods for example), maybe pushing the films could have saved the day ...
I assume negative stocks are better mediums for pushing/pulling ; do you have experience in pushed/pulled S8 stocks ? What were the outcomes ?

Thanks for your insights and experience.

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I would join the FB group: “Home Movie Processing”.  The moderator and others are international experts at this.  They process color, B/W, negative, reversal, cross process and alternative processing in natural home ingredients.   I myself have developed B/W negative in Caffenol: Ground coffee and vitamin C powder.  They can answer all your questions.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Since you asked here though, I will answer.  I have pushed and pulled both new and old films.  I have pushed my own Super 8mm EKTACHROME 160A films up to 3 stops, and yes, there was a huge increase in film grain, and some contrast increase, and possibly some color shifting, but shooting at low available light levels, color was odd anyhow.   Remember, you can't really increase the film's sensitivity, so what actually happens is that this is compensated processing to get the film's density up near normal.  Those areas within a scene that fall well below the film's sensitivity rating, and thus are below the Characteristic Curve's Toe range, won't have any density anyhow.  You can only build density on those areas that actually affect the film's silver halides.  This can be done a variety of ways, but for 1 to 2 stops, usually just adding time to the Developer will suffice.  For going higher, and/or for very poorly illuminated scenes, film can be stagnation processed to allow shadow areas to build more density yet keep the highlights from blowing out.  This works best in B&W film, but can be done with color.  

As you mentioned, yes, working with Negative film, either Color or B&W allows some extra leeway for both exposure and processing, compared to Reversal Films.  However, Reversal films can be pulled and pushed processed as well.  Rating a color reversal film at a Stop lower and processing it that way, for film shot in bright light and a very contrasty scene, will lower the effect contrast in that scene.  So there's all kinds of options.  As mentioned above, the film processing portion of this forum might yield more helpful insight and information.

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