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Rebalancing for gimbals (is there a faster way?)


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robin is correctw, to cameras are the solution. one permanently in gimbal mode. second one for studio/hh/steadi/etc.

if you only have one body, there are no real short cuts. but you will get better and more efficient at switching modes as you do it more often.

on my last show the production wanted to use our ronin-built body for second unit, to avoid renting one for them. but they needed everything that day - ronin, steadi, hh.

i estimated 30-40min changeover to rebuild the camera from the stripped down ronin mode... so they just rented a second one, which is much more efficient.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Depends on the camera, some easier than others to configure for swapping. I have the Alexa Mini down to about 3 minutes between handheld/sticks and Movi Pro. 

The key is trying to build all the aks that you will remove into one package. With Alexa Mini I run an MAP1 with the Movi top bracket installed on top of the camera and then MAP2 on top of that. 15mm rod mounted battery plate attaches to that MAP2. On board monitor on quick release from front of top handle. EVF also mounted to top handle. Now it is just 4 screws to loosen from that MAP2 and you remove all of that aks in one piece revealing the MAP1 w/ Movi top bracket ready to go into Movi. 

For the bottom, having the new CBP baseplate is super helpful as you can have the Arri stabilizer plate living on the Movi. You just slide the shoulderpad/dovetail adapter off and you are ready to go into the Movi there. Also has a nice mounting spot in the front for an RMB where you can keep your focus and iris motors. 

Teradek TX lives on the dumb side MSB. 

I don't know if that all makes sense the way I wrote it. Maybe I will do a video one day. 

It is nice to have dedicated cameras for each mode, but if I am the only 1st AC it is actually more convenient to swap one camera between modes so that my wireless hand unit and monitor remain paired to the one setup and there is less gear for me to schlep around.   

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