Barry Cheong

Does anyone know where I can get Luminex cleaning cloths in Toronto?

Does anyone know where I can get Luminex cleaning cloths in Toronto?

How do you find the Briese light with grid compares to a larger or medium chimera with grid?

I have individual boxes made up for each of my tungsten lights (650/300/150). Each box is made out of plasticore and showcard and has ND 9/6/3, 216, 250, Opal, F/H/Q CTO, and F/H/Q CTB. Each kit lives with it's own light like some other people's system and everything fits into a milkcrate for transport.

I was working on a cooking show where we shot various food beauties. The food was placed on a dining room table (as we were on location) and the DP used a 6x6 frame in a book light configuration above the table with a silk backed with a black. Into the frame were bounced 2x 1K's. A little bit of negative fill and front fill were used depending on the shot.

Good thought. I actually tried that and I had color correction turned to "ON" in the low, mid and hi settings. I had another look and it looks like there might be a very small minute increase but for +63 steps I would expect there to be more of a difference?

I was playing around with the Color Correction menu settings on the HDX900 while prepping a job and tried boosting the Saturation levels but didn't see any effect to my image. I had the camera hooked up to a Panasonic 8" monitor.

Color correction was turned to "On" in the menu.

Is there something I'm missing?

I've seen gaffer's build custom frames out of wood that fit into the existing window frame. They then use small 3M circular velcro to tack the gel to the frame and can stack subsequent densities of ND as the day changes on to the same frame.

Is it a joy connector on a 2500 ballast?

I can run my LTM 4k par with electronic ballast on my Honda eu3000s tied together no problem. My suggestion is make the rental house test it!!!!!!!! not all 4ks do well on put-puts!

 

Good Luck,

Rich

I thought they didn't make a parallel kit for the EU3000's only the EU2000's? Has anyone run a 2500 on a EU3000? I own the genny but have never tried.

I have one of these:

http://www.sourceshop.com/product.asp?pid=92

They're a little more designed for grip/sparking though an AC pouch will work.

Really insightful and interesting information and accounts of your experience. I hope you can do something very similar with your next production! Best of luck!

There's a company called Kenko that seems to have taken over the design of the old Minolta IIIF color meter. They look almost identical.

Gossen also makes one. They're both pricey.

Here are the gel boxes that I built (mentioned above) for each on of my lamps. They're built out of plasticore and cut to the respective lamp size.

I use re-inforced art portfolio's. They're strong and flat themselves.

Of course I'd take correction gels but could cut the list down by doubling some densities. Hopefully this would allow me to take my favorite standby gel CID to tungsten #237. I do not use it as a correction gel but more for effect. It's a great modern street light look in backlights. Hard to describe in words and looks scary on the swatch but try it in context - I've hooked up many of my customers with this one.

I totally know what you mean. I was gaffing a gig and trying to match a street lamp sodium vapour with an HMI Par and trying all these combinations of CTO and whatnot and the DP just happened to have a scrap of the CID and I tried it and it was perfect. I think I might have thrown in a little bit of 1/4 or 1/2 Plus green as well and it was a perfect match.

I find the Matthew's grip-heads far superior to anything else I've used. They have a good "bite" as they lock. I also like they're handles a lot better than avenger as well.

I've been making up small rectangular boxes out of plasticore that house pre-cut gels, at appropriate sizes, for all my lamps. It's fast and easy when you're on set. In each box I carry Full CTB, 1/2 CTB, 1/4 CTB, Full CTO, 1/2 CTO, 1/4 CTO, ND 9, ND 6, ND 3, 216, 250 and Opal. I also carry a small assortment of pre-cut Full minus green and Hampshire Frost.

All the various boxes fit into a milkcrate. Will post some pictures once I'm done.

Hi!

I just came off a job this past weekend shooting a short on a mini35 adapter and dvx100a. We secured a linear bed/camera slider from Panavision on the suggestion of the 1st AD to help save us time laying dolly track for our small push in shots. I've never used one previous to this.

While using it I found that the bed would stick starting for a cold stationary position and with really slow push-ins you'd also sometimes lose some momentum and it would stick so a lot of the shots are bumpy in the start or would stop prematurely and then i'd have to start again. To help I would sometimes start the movement in the direction it needed to go and then call frame so the action would be starting with the camera already in motion but sometimes we needed to be still and then start the movement.

Does anyone have any tips for the future?

I own 1 Arri 150, 2 Arri 300's, 3 Red-heads, 1 Lowel Pro Light, chimeras, photofloods, several containers of practicals, plenty of 12/3 AC, 1K hand dimmers, chinaballs, etc. Plus grip - stands, frames, clamps, mounts, adapteres, flags, nets, rags, bags, boxes, etc. I even have a Honda 3K genny which I've paid off 2/3 in about 6 months. I normally work as a cinematographer.

Owning gear has always worked out fairly well with me. It's nice having all the tools I need at my disposal at any time whenever I need it. Like it's been mentioned here Grip and Lighting is generally a better investment over video gear because of the changing technology. It might take 4 or 5 times as long to pay off a c-stand but something like that is not going to go out of date anytime soon. The decision to purchase gear really depends on what kind of projects you're working on and how often you're working. In general I normally win some and I lose some in terms of getting paid for the gear. But because of the long term re-coupement structure with grip/lighting I'm willing to have some patience with it.

So this is a 120 volt 3 pin twistlock?

 

You can make an adapter and put as many 15 amps plugs on it as you wish but the breaker will trip at it's capacity rating which in this case is 30 amps.

 

Any practical electrician would make an adapter with two 15 amp edison plugs on it as 15ax2=30a. If you wanted to get really fancy you could put a 15 amp breaker on each line, but hardly anyone does that if it is for your own use. In a worst case scenerio, you could overamp one 15 amp plug to 20 or 25 amps, but the 30 amp breaker would not trip. Eventually it would burn up. So always check the amps of the equipment being plugged in and do the math.

 

best

 

Tim

Thanks Tim! Now in the case of the Honda EU3000is genny the twistlock is a 30amp plug outputting 23.4 amps at 120V. If you made an adapter with 1 15A edison on it would that edison be able to pull the full 23.4 amps but subsequently eventually burn because the plug is only designed to take 15A? Additionally if you broke it out to two edisons instead would it be split evenly to 11.7amps on each plug?

If a twistlock plug on a generator puts out 30A and you get an adapter cable to go to 3x 15A household plugs that 30A gets shared over the 3x 15A plugs?

An adapter cable like this:

http://www.nooutage.com/g01912.htm

Is it still possible to get flicker using a electronic square wave ballast on a cheaper genny? Or does the fact that's it's a flicker free ballast negate all that? I've heard that some people won't guarantee flicker free operation on certain gennies regardless of the ballast.

Speedrail keeps things extremely versatile. For example, you can make a nice little boom to arm out in a quickie. But if you'd like a nice frame-only kit, look up square tube frames with Matthews hollywood corners and quick reversing ears. Square tubing, I recommend, is the best quality for 6'/8'/12' frames for a rigid frame.

 

MSE catalog site

http://www.msegrip.com/mse.php?show=email

Have you used Modern's 12x12 Square tube frame? What size tubing? Does it break down into 6 foot (or smaller) lengths?

Thanks Rik for the response. I'll probably only need 6' pipe no? There's a middle joiner to join 2 pieces of pipe together to form one side - unless I'm missing something. That's what got me - if it were just corners I would be having to carry 12' speedpipe.