Steve Larsen

Hi Olexander and thanks for the warnings and pointers. I updated the "How to" lube the Konvas album and included your warnings. My first camera is in beautifull shape and the only thing I have removed from it is the front cover to remove the old lube and relube. When I was finished I did a lens and reg test to see if there were any problems and they both came back perfect. My second 2M showed up an absolute wreck.. the mechanism was stiff and everything was dirty and dusty and the mirror had been scratched with somthing hard enough to leave three big marks. The camera was unusable and I had nothing to loose. The instructions I posted are for people in this position and I hope adding your warnings to the album makes that more clear. My curiousity is what led me to tear the camera to pieces and I would not recomend you do this to a new Konvas 2M. Worst case scenario I was going to send the camera off for serviceing when I was finished but I was going to fully understand the camera when I was done. The camera in the photo's I repainted before final assembly. I have since shot lens and reg tests with the camera and the lens test all came back fine but the reg test had a little drift from North to South at 24 & 32 fps and I was thinking about sending it to you for a check up.. Steve.

Most of my lenses are the standard Lomo lenses. I think my newest lens the 10mm was made by CKBK and possibly some of the tele's.. When I first got the camera I did lens tests, had a work print made from my neg and had it projected at the lab. I was very happy with the results.

I'm not sure where you are but if you are on the west coast ( I am in Vancouver, BC) and would like to test the camera and lenses you are welcome to test mine. I have a fairly complete set of the slower primes for the Konvas 2M from 10mm - 750mm. I am looking at buying the fast primes and a zoom in the spring. I have done a reg test and some lens test's that I had projected and have since shot and transfrerred footage to HD and been very happy with. I did not measure the resolution of the lenses but if you would like too measure mine drop me a line. Link to photo's of my primes: http://www.konvas.info/v/steve_larsen/package/Konvas+Lens/

I think the two diffusions have two different purposes, A silk (avialable in full ,1/2 & 1/4) will allow you to see the source you put through it. The result is a softened shadow with a clear feeling of the source direction. 216 & Light grid diffuse the light a lot more evenly at there is very soft shadow and a little feeling of the source direction. That being said if it is night and there is a 216 4x4 on an 18k 100 yards away the light will still be extremely sourcey. The softness of a source is directly proportional to it's size compared to the subjects.

There are two ways to get contrast when there is none.. One is to add light and the other is to take it away. Negative fill refers to the removing light from the subject.. usually with something big and black. In my opinion negative fill is the most under utilized way to create contrast and one of the most effective in many circumstances, also a lot less expensive...

Thanks

Hi everyone, I am cleaning up a few of my old lights (650w. red heads) and need to know the letter code for new bulbs. Thanks in advance.

Ratchet straps and webbing with some foam to protect the car. On the hood mount open the hood and hook a small piece of webbing around the hinge on both sides, close the hood, and attach your 2 ratchet straps to the webbing and then to your car mount, then 2 more ratchets going to the fron bumper area somewhere to the camera mount (opposing force). On the side mount you might be able to utilize one of the hood webbing attach points or open the door attach a piece of webbing to the hinge. If it's a 4 door open up both doors and get a piece of webbing around the post between doors. Once you get your pick points strap down the mount.

Many thanks to Olex for the manuals for the lens and advice... I recieved my first adapter yesterday and put it on the lens today and tried it out. I now have a beautifull 750mm lens. I am sure the 2.1 adapter will also work with this lens now aswell after trying the 1.5x adapter. If you see one of these 500mm lens's for sale you might want to grab it.. here are the photos: http://www.konvas.info/v/steve_larsen/pack...Lens/?g2_page=4 Steve.

Here's a very good link to the Aranda film group who do 2 perf conversions to just about any camera (for a price). This page shows 2 perf compared to 3 and 4. http://www.2perf.arandafilm.com.au/NewFiles/3perfpage.html If you search around the site there is some more great info on 2 perf.

You would be cropping 2 perf to get 1.77 but if you were going to project it you could do it in wide screen 2.35 by converting it to anamorphic 4 perf for projection. Shooting wide screen with half the film and no anamorphic lens's.

This is my cable cam system in it's 3rd revision.. There are many ideas you could borrow from it if you look carefully. I am presently working on my own remote head for it ( the scorpio head is nice but expensive). http://www.sky-line.ca Steve Larsen www.stevelarsen.ca www.sky-line.ca www.vancouvergrip.com www.stock-footage.ca

Hi Captain, I am presently running a website dedicated to the Konvas & Kinor camera's... The idea is to give owner operators a place to showcase thier gear & work aswell as a place for productions to look for owner operators. It is still new and people and myself are slowly adding to it. If you are interested in your own album and/or contributing drop me a line: steve@konvas.info The website: http://www.konvas.info Steve.

'Olex Kalynychenko' What 25-250 mm lens you mean ? OPF-7. 25-250 mm, OPF-15 25-250 have no rear mount for connect lens mount. This is lenses have lens mount on rear part of body of lens. I think, you mean OPF-18 20-120 mm zoom lens. -> Hi Olex, I was talking about the OPF-18 and the adapters that go with it. There's a photo here in this ebay add of the lens and the adapters (including a PL adapter) ( http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...p;rd=1&rd=1 ) A member from a different board also pointed out that the OPF7 also has a similiar rear mount and adapters. The user manual of set of lenses show, The lenses OKS5-250-1, OKS-9-500-1, OKS-5-750-1, OKS-4-1000- 1 have similar design of optical block and design of body of lens. 250 mm and 500 mm lenses have front optical adapter ( additional lens ) for shoot from short distance. The lens OKS-5-750-1 consist of OKS-9-500-1 lens and rear optical dapter 1.25-x. The lens OKS-4-1000-1 consist of OKS-9-500-1 lens and rear optical adapter 2-x. The rear optical adapter have one design, but, have two different distance between rear glass of 500 mm optical block and front glass of adapter. -> Is it the same adapters (1.5x & 2.1x) from the OPF18 that are used on the OKC9-500 ? If you need, i can send diagrams from user manual. -> A manual would be very nice.. You can send it to me or post it on www.konvas.info. Thanks in advance.. I have no experience connect OKS-9-500 lens and rear adapters of OPF-18 zoom lens, but, i think, theoretically, this is possible, will need adjust of position of rear adapter on optical bentch only. -> It looks to me like the adapter will lock into position and can not be adjusted. The lens has a locking mechanism similiar to the OCT19 mount inside the lens. Would it not make sense if the first adapter locks into place (at the right spot) on the lens that the other adapters (1.5x & 2.1x) would also be at the same distance as the first adapter ? I had experience use a photo lens Carl Zeiss 180 mm, 300 mm, 600 mm from medium format photo camera Pentacon Six with 2x optical adapter, adapter P-6-Konvas-2M and Konvas-2M camera. All work fine. The one problem, you have small speed of all this optical system. Thanks in advance, Steve Larsen.

Hi I recently purchased a Lomo - OKC9-500-1 for my Konvas 2M and upon close inspection it appears the rear mount is an adapter similiar those on the lomo 25-250 zoom lens. I wonder if anybody has experience with this lens and know if you can switch out the rear of the lens for the 1.5x & 2.1x extender's that come with the 35OPF-18 (25-250 lomo). here's a photo of the extenders I'm talking about: http://65.98.8.117/%7eanteyco/2Lens30-250/118_1847.jpg (from an ebay ad) and here's the photo showing the mount on my OKC9-500-1 : http://www.konvas.info/v/steve_larsen/pack...120003.JPG.html there are more photos of the adapter and lens in the same photo album. Thanks in advance, Steve.

Hi Daniel, If you loop size is not correct in the mags you will also have registration problems. I have seen a few instructions online on how to thread the mag, the best from commiecam.com but after many, many scratch tests and then a registration test I have found a loop size that works for me. There are photo's on the www.konvas.info website in the "how to" album of my loop sizes. I shot my reg test with the loops like this a small mag and a 100' load and the guy at the lab was surprised when I told him the camera did not have a registration pin. Steve. http://www.konvas.info/v/admin/loop/

Hi, I am looking into having one made for my 2m right now. Nothing fancy 9"x9"x13" stainless steel box with 6x6 glass port on the front for the lens (off center to match up with the lens) and a second window in the back for an lcd monitor. The back of the box would snap or bolt on with an O ring inbetween. I think my power, on/off & video will be on one cable. I plan to use it for shot's of salmon spawning so the box will be planted in the river and me some place warm waiting to hit the on button... If it gets advanced I will figure some way to attach focus and iris, to the outside of the box and a start stop. But for now I'm thinking wide angle, fixed focus and apperature. Steve

Hi everyone, I just got my first time lapse footage shot on the Konvas 2M transfered. I posted my reusults at http://www.konvas.info/v/steve_larsen/Time+Lapse+Footage/ I have a little bit more footage shot in real time that I will post tomorrow of Mountain Sheep. Steve Larsen.

Hi again Stephen and anyone else intereted. I just got my first Time-lapse footage transferred to HD, all shot with the Konvas 2m & Russian glass. For the most part I am very happy with the results, no fogging on a 10 sec interval with the sun in the shot. I pulled 4 stop manually on every sunset shot, trying to open slower than it's getting darker. I'm posting my results as we speak on http://www.konvas.info in my album. Steve Larsen

Hi Stephen, here's a link to download the test I did with the K3, I looked over my notes and I pulled the stop from f11-3.5 with a pola filter / 1/30 s. / 50asa as the sun was going down. I had to give up doing time-lapse with the K3 because of the fogging problems and some strobe effect i was getting... Steve. http://www.konvas.info/v/steve_larsen/expo...test_a.mov.html

Hi Stephen, and thanks again. I have a Tobin time-lapse motor for a Bolex adapted to my Konvas 2m. It has 2 modes; regular @ .75 fps exposure at any interval and long exposure (your interval - 1 sec (2 sec-100hr) ) The way I've calculated my shutter speed is: Tobin specs for regular speed = .75 fps = 1.3 spf x Konvas 2m shutter = 150 deg. = 150/360 = .416 1.3 x .416 = .541 sec = 1/2 s. I think I am starting to get my exposure close now, but there is a huge difference in stops between 10 min before sunset and 10 min's after. I have asked quite a few DP's I work with how to expose/shoot a sunset and I don't seem to get the same answer twice. One of my best tests on the K3 I pulled 2 stops as the sun went down (approx 10-15min) watching with the spot meter to make sure I was pulling the stop slower than exposure's drop, so even though I'm opening the stop the picture is still getting darker. I have another 6 sunsets in the can now (on 35mm) and a few of them I've pulled 4 stops. They should be in the lab soon. I created this table to calculate shooting time at various intervals and footage for play back at 24fps: http://www.vancouvergrip.com/footage%20Calculator.htm Steve Larsen

Hi David, I have shot some test rolls on my K3 and I have kept very good records of what I took the exposure from (ie: a spot reading and/or an incident reading) and tracked those readings on a graph Taking an exposure reading every 10 min's. When I started shooting with the Konvas I made myself a template table/details page to fill in as I shoot a Time-lapse shot. I have posted it online it might be usefull to someone else: http://www.vancouvergrip.com/The%20Larsen%...pse%20Table.htm http://www.vancouvergrip.com/shotreport.htm Steve Larsen

Hi Stephen and thanks for the advise. I am wondering the reason you expose for 6 sec ? ( I thought my Min expousre of a 1/2 sec might be a problem, I guess not... ) Do you ever pull the stop and/or pull ND as the suns going down ? Thanks in advance, Steve Larsen

Hi, nice shots, left me wanting to see more... what you are shooting on ? I just left a question in the 35mm forum looking for advice on shootin sunsets. Maybe you have some advice... I have a Konvas 2m (35mm)hooked up with a Tobin time lapse motor and I have just begun shooting some time lapse shots. Pictures of my cam can be seen at http://www.konvas.info Thanks in advance for any advice you might have, I am also very interested in seeing you pan rig, care to post a photo ? Steve Larsen

Hi, not sure if your a member of the Konvas group in the smartgroups website but there is a little info on lube there. I have a 2m and I am using a synthetic greese made by "Loctite" called "Viper Lube" for the areas to be greased and I'm using a gun oil for the spots to be oiled. There's photo's of the areas to be lubed and oiled on the www.konvas.info website and the address for smart groups is: http://www.smartgroups.com/groups/konvas Steve Larsen.