Gareth Roberts

Use Bingo Dabbers. They come in different colors and the marks don't sink into the ice. Gareth Roberts

Thank you to all who viewed this short and thank you to all that voted for it in the competition. Thanks for the comments and encouragement. The competition is over and the short has been taken down. Thanks, Gareth

Thank you all for your viewing and encouragement. Gareth

That is interesting to know. Thank you. Gareth

I think that they want to use Master or Ultra primes and an E.U. focus puller. Gareth

Here is a short film that I shot. Would you please critique, and perhaps vote on for the competition. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAMb7xZGLMM Thank you. Gareth Roberts

Hello, I would like to find out about conversion strips for lenses. Hypothetically I've got a set of imperial scale lenses and a focus puller who wants to work in metric. The letraset strip idea won't work because the DOP is worried about the letraset strip slipping in weather etc. Bringing in a set of metric scale lenses won't work because of cost, etc. Is there an industry standard set of clip on lens scales that will solve this? Oh, and I don't know what lenses will be used. Shooting on arri sr's from Panny Canada, or PS Canada. Sorry if this is vague, but that is the way it was presented to me. Thanks, Gareth :ph34r:

I wonder if you could rent one from FLIR. www.infraredcamerarentals.com/

I worked as the camera assistant on a shot up north in the winter where we were traveling for over a month and spent nights in igloos at times. We had 2 Aaton prods a hhb dat and the Origin C. The Origin C worked beautifully there was not a moment when we lost sync. I jammed the cameras and dat every time we either changed mags or batteries. It got so cold that the lcd screen on the Origin C would fade after being exposed to the elements (I kept it tucked under my Canada Goose parka). I would have to reset the info on the Origin C and then re-jam both cameras and the dat before it faded again. The Origin C that I was using had not been used for a while and I had the cables re-built at the rental house (Whites) I would recommend the system to anyone shooting a doc with Aatons. Gareth Roberts

I just converted a double perf filmo to single perf. I won't be held responsible for any injuries, damages etc. To do this is at your own risk. To convert the two sprockets: unscrew the screw at the top of the sprockets - the chrome guide will come off and then the sprocket can be removed, pull the cog and sleeve out of the sprocket. You will notice that the sprocket has a channel cut across the bottom of it. This is the side of the sprocket that you want the gears left on. Take a bolt that will fit through your sprocket and then put on a nut to tighten the sprocket. Take the bolt with the sprocket on it over to your drill press and put the threaded section of the bolt into the drill press. Set up the drill press so that it rotates at its slowest. Then take a dremel with a grinding attachment and carefully grind of the sprockets as they rotate - you might even want to grind off enough to allow for s16mm THIS ALL CAN BE DONE ON A LATHE FOR MORE PRECISION. Do both sprockets - remember where they came from( on one of my cameras they were of slightly different dimensions). To convert the pull down claws. Take all lenses off of the front of the camera. Pull the center out of the nut holding the front turret onto the camera (this is also an oiling point) remove the nut and then carefully pull the turret off of the camera. There are three spring loaded cams that might fly out if you yank the turret off. What I did was tape the cams in. Then there is a circular shim that needs to be removed. Next you need to make sure that the filmo is un-wound hold down the button until the filmo stops. Then there are four screws that need to come out - remove them and carefully pull the front off of the camera. Have your hand over the run button as this is spring loaded and will fly out - remove it and continue to pull the front of the camera off. You might have to jiggle it a bit as it comes out - no brute force. When you have the front off of the camera you need to remove the gate to get at the pull-down claws. The gate is held on by four screws and it has a spring underneath it that you need to be careful of - do not loose it. This spring forces the side plate against the film to hold it steady. Remove the gate and you will notice that the pull-down claws are underneath - you need to cut the furthest one off. I rotated the shutter out of the way and using tape and large kimwipes (paper towels) covered anything that metal filing might get into. I cut off the claw using a cutoff wheel on a dremel. You can also attach a grinding wheel onto your dremel and enlarge the portion of the front of the camera that the gate sits on for s16 - don't enlarge the area right behind the lens as you are libel to get light leaks as the shutter is right there and there is not much metal making it light tight. Blow out any filings that might have gotten past your kimwipes and tape. You can take a file to your gate now to make it s16 - what I did was file off enough of the gate so that the gate now ends parallel to where the cut/hole is for the pull-down claw that you just cut off. I then put a polishing bit on the dremel and polished the gate where I had filed it and also where the old pull-down claw used to be as "picture" will be be there. To reassemble the gate - place the side plate onto the gate and place it on the front of the camera. Take the spring and place it under the gate, hold the gate down while you push the spring under with a jewelers screwdriver. When the gate is flush and the side plate is pushed by the spring the carefully replace the two screws above the spring, tighten them. Place the other guide and it's screws in place and tighten them. Place the front back on the camera - jiggle don't force. When you have the front on flush place the runbutton and its spring in place. Push the run button in while you carefully lift the front of the camera again, it just has to be lifted slightly for the run button to go in - you want it in an intermediate position - not all the way in and not falling out. Replace the four screws, replace the shim. Place the turret onto the front until it hits the spring loaded cams, then push the cams in with your jewelers screwdriver while slipping the turret past them. Put the nut on the front of the turret, and then replace the rivet from the center of the nut. Wind and try. My camera is all reassembled and I have run film through to scratch test and will be doing a film test to check for steadiness etc. A cheap conversion for a cheap camera. By the way my gate is not quite s16 .295 X .488 but is close and I can enlarge it later with better tools (Milling machine). My camera - my two cents.

Does anyone have any information about northridge research eyemos? I've got a camera body and several eyemo lenses. The door has a box on it with a watch, counter, lightbulbs, mirrors, etc. inside, and the shutter is segmented so that the info from the box is recorded on the film next to the image. The gate is also segmented to allow image and info to be seperate. The camera comes with a 200 ft. magazine. There is no spring, there is a 28v motor inside. There is no way to set any speed for the camera, and I have not powered it up. I have a replacement shutter, and have opened up the gate. The door cannot be replaced with one from a filmo, the eyemo body is a different shape. I am interested in replacing the motor with a 12v one, and want to know if anyone here has modified one of these cameras, or if it is even possible. What am I in for?

Hello, I'm interested in any information on the Fries 435 camera. How is the viewing system for operating? Are you able to ramp with the camera? Ease of use for assistants, etc. Any information from peoplw who have used this camera would be appreciated. Gareth