Chris Gravat

Yeah it'll be a standard one. Filmtools doesn't have any though. Someone has to know where to get one. Help! Maybe at a lab?

I'm looking for a collapsible core for an Arriflex 16M 400' Mag. Can anyone tell me a good place to start looking for one? - Chris

It's not a book, but rather a documentary. "Tell them who you are." It's about the life of the cinematographer Haskel Wexler. Very inspiring and heartfelt, as the director is none other than his son. - Chris Gravat Boston, MA

Blain Brown has some great books on Lighting and cinematography. I read them when I was back in school. I believe the titles are "lighting" and "cinematography" -Chris Gravat Boston, MA

I would do as much reading about anzel adams' zone system as possible. It wasn't until I grasped this concept that I felt 100% confident about my exposures and contrast ratios. (Though Cr's are still my nemesis!) The idea is basically meant for B&W photog., but still can be applied to color photog. Anything you spot meter, the reading you get back will be the T stop to make that subject 18% grey. try placing a grey card in a lighting setup and take a spot reading of the card. Then in the same lighting take an incident reading, They will be very close, if not the same exposure. If you can find where you want your 18% grey (Zone 5) to be then you just place everything else in the zone that you want it to fall into. This the very basics of the zone system, I highly suggest you read about it though. - Chris Gravat Boston, MA

When I shoot in the snow I usually use my spot meter and grey card for the faces Or to find my zone 5, then apply the zone system for the snow and everything in the background. But you will definitely want to expose for your shadow areas if shooting 7217. With all the latitude your snow being in or around zone 8 or 9 should be cool. If you change angles, just make sure everything is still in the correct zone and you should have matching contrast ratios. hope that helped, Chris Gravat Boston, MA

Clive, I will definitely buy one if you in fact decide to make a few more units. Chris Gravat Boston, MA

Thanks yall, I got it! I moved the loop down one perf and perfection. This baby is ready to rock. thanks again. Chris Gravat Boston, MA

Hello again everyone, So I've been practicing loading and threading my recently purchased 16M. My question is about the top part of the loop in the camera above the gate. it appears that the emulsion might be making contact with the guide rail. I have made a loop with 36 visible perfs, and have made sure that the bottom of the loop does not make contact with anything as the manual describes. Any tips or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. chris gravat boston, ma

I have the older T* T3. Arri standard all the way (The seating terrifies me, oh well It's just Zeiss glass...haha). I definitely know the cookes and schneiders and I guess some Zeiss lenses with those ears that you are reffering to. The ears look to be aluminum This lens has kinda the same concept, but they are hard plastic and all the way around the barrel. Heres a shot of it. Notice how close the mattebox is to the focus threads. This is gunna be a challenge! - Chris

Thanks Tim. I wasn't aware that the hotshoes were at different angles on the two sister cameras, CRAZY. Anyway I appreciate your vote of confidence with the baseplate angle idea. Now I need to find a follow focus at a reasonable price that has the capability to drive a Vario Sonnar T* 10-100mm. Without getting in the way of my mattebox that is infact mounted on the crazy old hotshoe. -Chris

I'm trying to outfit my Arri M with a rod system and follow focus. For any of you familiar with the "M" you know that the lens mount is offset a bit because of the three lens turret. Just wondering if this is going to prevent me from using a follow focus? My thought was to just secure the base plate at an angle that is parallel with the lens mount. Although this may look kind of awkward I think it might work. If anyone has any experience with support gear for the "M" your help is much appreciated. - Chris Gravat Boston, MA_

Are you speaking of the Cine lab in Mass.? Do they do HD tapeless transfers? If so what kind of options do they have as far as codecs go?

Can anyone recommend a good HD transfer house in New England? And if not new england somewhere that I can ship to thats reliable. Thanks - Chris Gravat Boston, MA

Just wondering if anyone has tried this lens (Century Optics Super Cinetar 5.7mm f1.8 c mount) meant for instrumentation purposes on their beaulieu. - Chris Gravat Orlando, FL