JD Hartman

If you had a 220v ballast and only 115v available, you could run the ballast using a step up transformer. The voltage of the country (115/230/277/460v,etc.) is irrelevant to the globe. The HMI globe(really an arc lamp) requires a certain voltage to stike its arc and maintain that arc. That is controlled by the ballast. The ballast may be a 115v only or a manual or automatic voltage sensing one, which will run on anything from about 90vac up to over 240vac.

First, I haven't seen the film yet, plan plan to. I went to look for local showtimes and read quite a few negative reviews from viewers. Not about the cinamatography, directing or any of the technical aspects of filmmaking, but about the story itself. Implausible, totally unrealistic, made no sense, insulting to Nasa and the scientists of the Apollo program and other comments. Did any thoughts like these cross your mind as you reviewed the script. I realize that we make (and watch) films for entertainment, but isn't there supposed to be some glimmer of realism, even in a story like this one? This is not intended to be a criticism or critique, I'd just like to know your thoughts on the screenplay.

Hard to tell from the photos, but that head may be one of the older ones which uses a self contained globe and reflector. Replacements sell for $350, substantially more than than the globe for the newer 1.2 HMI's.

Worked with a Cinesaddle on one shoot, I wasn't impressed with it. I could have done the same with a couch pillow and a couple of sandbags.

I don't own a Dedo, but I'd conclude that that the black should face the reflector. In this way, a "ghosted" image of the internal components will not be projected.

Kennedy Electric in Chicago, which sells mail order and is also on Ebay as Lights64.

If you look at a suction cup mounts like ones Matthews manufactures, you will see that they incorporate a vacuum pump with a safety indicator. These are made using the same cups that carry large sheet of plate glass, granite countertops, etc. The difference is in the holding power and the safety factor. If you want to build your own tray mount, it can be done if you have the metalworking skills. Tray mounts don't depend primary on a suction hold. As long as the construction is solid and you use good quality straps, the camera should be fine. I'd look at some of the ideas on: rondexter.com

I own mainly tunsten lights, both fresnel and open face, from inkies to 2k's. Only one HMI, a 1.2k. Plus the usual assortment of stingers, stands, flags, and other grip equipment. What I keep running into are the people who want to hire you for next to nothing (less than $250/day) and get the equipment for free.

Thanks, I am aware of that. However I am not the person who is picking up the equipment. They reside in South Jersey and I can blame them for not wanting to make the drive to Manhattan.

Anyone know of any camera equipment/grip rental companies in the Philadelphia, Pennsylvania area? I need a simple camera mount for a car for this weekend. The three legged suction cup type, like one of these: http://www.cinemagadgets.com/small-medium-...unt-p-1243.html

Uva's grip book is great. His rigging book isn't in quite the same format. Lots of useful technical information, dimensions and specsifications, but very few application examples.

Any rental houses carrying them in the NYC metro area? I've haven't used any yet, but must say that it is nice to see that someone has updated the technology of the Mole nine-lite or "crowd blinder" and brought it into the 21st century.

Curious, why wouldn't you put anything larger than a 1k on them? When used as designed, vertically, most of the weight is carried in a downward direction, very little stress horizontally. As I had stated in my post, they aren't "wall spreaders" and are supposed to be used vertically. But commen sense would dictate that, in any location, you attempt to position it between a ceiling joist and the floor and/or use a piece or cribbing to distribute the stress on the plaster/sheetrock, to prevent its cracking. Just as you (should) use cribbing with a wall spreader. Yes, these are made by Manfrotto, sold under the Bogen brand here in the states.

I've been seeing a lot of used Bogen Autopoles for sale. Many of them were probably used for display fixtures and sign holders in retail stores here in the U.S. (Macy's, Sears/Kmart). Before someone repeats the obvious, I know that they are designed be used vertically, they aren't a wall spreader. Does anyone have much experience with using them in interiors to mount fixtures? I was thinking that in many locations, they would be less obtrusive than a stand (no legs to hide) and two of them, with some speedrail would make a quick temporary lighting truss.

If you are dying to own one or more of these light towers, I'd look into auctions at construction and heavy equipment rental companies. Since the stock genny is loud, you might be able to find a bargain in a unit that has a blown engine or a burned out generator. Use the space formerly occupied by the engine/generator to hide the HMI ballasts and store the cables.

While watching the film in the theatre, I noticed the light towers with the Arri fixtures immediately. Were the fixtures cables to a remote power source? One only has to drive past a large highway construction site at night to realize that the generators in these portable units are very noisy. I really can't see a film application for them, except as a work light.

Frequency stabilization is maintained by keeping the engine rpm's consistant, regardless of load. On older generators and some of small cheap portables, it's done by a combination of an engine driven governor and a throttle accuator arm. This doesn't mean that there will be a large frequency drift as the load changes, but it does mean that, being mechanical, it can't react quickly. Electronic frequency stabilization, referred to as "crystal sync", uses a feedback circuit loop (sometimes with a quartz crystal as a reference) to monitor and adjust output frequency. But the 60Hz is still maintained the same way, by controlling engine speed, just more accurately and more quickly. Many small generators, like the Hondas have electronic frequency stabilizaion. Check the manufacturers information to be certain. Small generators often have other problems, like poor voltage regulation, gravity fuel systems (no fuel pump, too expensive) and output ratings that reflect peak output instead of continuous duty.

A 1k zip with an eggcrate like a Mole. Cut it down further with ND if needed. Maybe add an inkie as an eyelight or as a back or rimlight.

That is an interesting comment, Frank would you be kind of to expound on your post? What factors would affect the frequency output of a "crystal sync" generator over time? As far as another person's comment on "trained" generator operators. Correct me if I'm completly wrong, but I thought the gen. op. card was basically a union Teamster thing. Kind of the same way they control transportation. It doesn't necessarily mean they are a diesel mechanic, licensed electrician or have received any special training. Rental houses send a driver/operator with the unit for many reasons, a few: big truck, very top heavy load; generator is worth more than $100k; no need to explain operating procedures to customer.

From Wikipedia: The BNC connector is a type of RF connector used for terminating coaxial cable. The connector was named after its bayonet mount locking mechanism and its two inventors, Paul Neill of Bell Labs ...etc. I'm guessing the "Bat" in Bat light referrs to the 1x2 batten (a.k.a. furring strip in the U.S.A.) that the sockets are attached to. Really noting more than a handy scrap of wood that was available when the first "Bat Light" was created. The Mole-Richardson Nook light might be considered the commercial version of the Bat Light. Here is a link to some sockets of this type: http://www.homestead.com/prosites-rcchre/C...dware/H036.html NOTE: There are low and high voltage (US 117vac line voltage) versions of the same style socket. I'd choose the line voltage socket with the high temperature leads if I was building anything. Another possible source is "curbside" on garbage pickup day.

Many DVMs (Digital Volt Meters) with have the ability to measure frequency. You might be able to find that feature in a clamp-on style meter, so that you don't lose the ability to measure current draw easily. I would school myself on generator operation, power distribution, engine and generator troubleshooting, voltage regulation and generator frequency control. Too many people throw around the term "Crystal Sync" with out understanding what it means or how it is acomplished. When do you need a genny with tight frequency control? What types (and brands) of generators are acceptable for what types of lighting instruments? Knowing the answer the previous two questions will make you more of an asset.

I agree with above suggestions as well, the Set Technicians book is a good one. Read everything else that you can find. The Uva's Basic Grip book is another resource. A few courses in electrical work would also help out greatly. The number of "Electrics" that you meet who don't know the "hows and whys of load balancing", would surprise you. I worked with one Electric that had never put on an Edison plug. Being able to diagnose a problem and perform a repair comes with repetition.

David id right, residue from the manufacturing process. Probably petroleum based, a soak in dish detergent or de-greaser, 409, Fantastic, Oil-Eater should do. Rinse them and then dry quickly in from of a fan or in a warm oven.

Yes, you can. Many older homes still have un-grounded receptacles. You should carry some ground lift adapters with you. With regards to voltage readings over 125vac, I had read that it was common for some utilities to raise the delivery voltage in the winter months. Something related to added revenues.

Any specific reason why you are choosing welding wire? Do you already have it, or can you get it cheap? Type SC or W in size 2 would be fine for that current. How many feet do you plan on running? Maybe go with 2/0 for the first hundred or two hundred feet and then #2 banded from the first distro box. Would renting the feeders as needed be practical? Copper is expensive right now and shows no signs of dropping.