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Patrick Cooper

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  1. Actually, here's an interesting point to consider. Wood is better at dampening vibration compared to metal. So considering that, maybe I'll ditch the idea of a metal mast yet again and settle on wood.
  2. Edit: Yea I admit using a right hand / L shaped bracket on a round tube is probably not the wisest thing to do. I could use a square shaped piece of metal or wood to attach these kind of brackets to. My camera clamp should probably be able to be used on a square shape as well as a tube. Again, I'm not an expert on building things but Ive got a feeling that two L shaped brackets on either side of the 'mast' would probably be stronger than the alternative I proposed above.
  3. Actually, going to back to the original idea of using a metal pole extending from a timber base, I wonder if a bracket would be strong enough. I admit I am not an expert on these kind of things (building stuff like this.) It would have my body weight leaning against the pole at times so it would need to be extremely strong. Would a bracket like this be sufficient? Ive got a feeling that it may not be enough. I'm happy to be corrected. Perhaps I could have an elevated wooden block above the base and the pole attached to that block with the bracket. Or alternatively an L shaped bracket across the timber base and up against the pole. Maybe two L shaped brackets - one on each side of the pole?
  4. Actually, I wonder if I should have two tubes instead of one. The original idea was to have a single tube that I could attach the camera to via a clamp and also hold on to as well when I'm riding. Though thinking about this more, I guess there's a chance that when I'm in motion, I could grip the tube more tightly or maybe even lose a tiny bit of balance and compensate by putting more pressure on the tube. And those kind of things could pass on more vibrations on to the camera. I suppose I could have two tubes - one in front of the other. I admit that would look really strange on a scooter but I guess it would be functional (from a filmmaking perspective.) Unfortunately, it would make it more bulky. Or maybe have two tubes side by side. Hold on to one tube and mount the camera on to the other.
  5. I suppose I could use a wooden pole as opposed to a metal tube. It's just that my Small Rig camera clamp has an incredibly strong grip. Too much pressure and it would cause damage to wood. I would need to be careful when tightening the clamp. Ive come across another youtube video of a home made wooden scooter. And the wooden handles of this one seem to be sturdy enough for the rider. .
  6. Robert, I could certainly see that plywood dolly being good on super smooth surfaces as you say. I'm betting that larger wheels with rubber tires would likely be better at handling less smooth surfaces. The 8 wheel design sounds like a beast! Another attribute that I would like is a small, compact size but would still allow me to ride on it with my full body weight. My design is kind of like a scooter but some may be wondering why I don't simply buy a scooter that has large wheels with rubber tires. I actually did buy one of those kinds of scooters from a flea market years ago at a really low price. Though when I got on the bus with it to go home, the driver wouldn't allow me to have it onboard. Apparently, it was too large. So I was forced to walk home with it. It had a flat tire if I recall so I couldn't ride it. Kind of ridiculous because it's not much bigger than the kind of scooters that kids ride on these days. So I'd like my proposed dolly to be much smaller in size to reduce the chance of those kinds of situations. The vertical tube would probably be similar in height to a regular scooter. But the base that you stand will be a much smaller footprint. Just big enough for one foot. And I'd push off with the other foot. And with four wheels instead of two, it will be easier and quicker to set up and compose shots before moving. It will certainly be more stable than a two wheeled scooter in a stationary position (before tracking.) Yea I could consider eight wheels but that would be pretty ambitious. I would scan the terrain beforehand to make sure there aren't any holes.
  7. I would be riding this thing on surfaces like concrete, bitumen, asphalt etc. Occasionally, one of these surfaces might be slightly rough but nothing too extreme. I'll also have some rubber sandwiched between the camera clamp and the tube. Every little bit helps of course. The cameras that I'll be using do have a bit of size and weight to them so buying suitable gimbals for them is going to be too expensive. Those cameras being the Panasonic G7 M4/3 mirrorless and a Canon 1014E super 8 camera. I would also likely be using wide angle shots most of the time to lessen the effects of vibration.
  8. Actually, come to think of it, wasn't a wheelchair used for some of the tracking shots in Stanley Kubrick's The Shining?
  9. Phil, thank you for those details. I'll have a search for pneumatic wheels. And a good suggestion about using the front wheels of wheelchairs. I notice that most of the wheels that I see on modern scooters are really tiny. I reckon that larger wheels would probably give a smoother ride when the surface is slightly rough or uneven. Ah yes - brackets - a good solution for attaching the tube. I was hoping for a metal tube that is light weight and relatively inexpensive. Perhaps I could get a second hand aluminium tube that was originally designed for a different application. And yes, the plan is to mount the camera directly to the tube. I was hoping that the rubber tires would help to reduce the vibrations. I wouldn't be riding on surfaces that are too rough or uneven. The ARRMA RC truck looks really cool. Though evidently, it would be mainly used for low angle shots. Whereas I would like to shoot some medium height shots as well
  10. I'm planning to do a DIY project sometime soon. What I want to build is something with wheels that would allow me to attach a camera to it for tracking shots. This thing will be kind of like a variation of a scooter but more simplified in some ways. It won't turn - it will travel in a straight line only. It will still have a vertical pole to hold on to and I will also mount a camera to this pole with a clamp. I'm going to use some of the ideas in this video to make it. Particularly the attachment of the wheels with a bolt and nuts and washes. Mine will have four wheels (two pairs) and a rather short base (just enough for the placement of one foot.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqFUSe_wLWo Though I would want wheels with rubber tires specifically as these would likely absorb vibrations from travelling over rough ground. Would anyone have any idea where I could source wheels that are kind of similar to the ones shown in the video but also have rubber tires? And ideally, the inner holes would have to be the right size diameter for bolts to run through them. Also, I would like to use a metal pole rather than wood. I don't suppose anyone could suggest a way that I could attach a metal pole to a wooden base in such a way that the bond is strong and secure? I would probably use a light weight metal like aluminium.
  11. I once read in an old magazine that the Australian adventurer and entrepreneur Dick Smith used super8 to film one of his expeditions. This could have been the 70s or early 80s. There was a photo showing him and a rather large Chinon camera (can't recall the model.) And yes, I remember the Leyland Brothers show. I always watch it when repeats are shown. The Simpson Desert special they did was really interesting. By the way, with all this renewed interest in film lately, I wonder if Kodak will actually release their new super 8 camera any time in the near future.
  12. Tyler, that footage while driving down the downhill street looked awesome. Nice sunset imagery too. The music suited the footage well.
  13. Good point! All of my film footage (super 8 and 16mm) has been shot in 4:3 and generally, I'm fine with that. However, if I want to use 16mm in a commercial manner, others may not be so keen on that particular aspect ratio. For example, I notice with contemporary TV content, 4:3 is pretty rare.
  14. Ah yes, that's the kind of resolution I would expect to be ideal for such cropping. I guess you export as HD?
  15. Those prices seem very attractive for 4k scans. I guess he transfers negative films and can offer the option of colour grading? Currently, I don't own an operational 16mm camera (my K3 died some time ago.) And I don't know the whereabouts of the 16mm films that I have shot in the past. I do have some super 8 films that have been transferred to HD and 4k. I guess with one of the 4k scans, I could export a HD version and crop both the 4k and HD clips and compare.
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