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Patrick Cooper

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  1. I thought the issue could possibly be related to the mirror shutter but I'm not sure how to adjust it. I don't suppose it can be pushed out of the way by hand? And that winding key is all loose. There is no resistance. One day, years ago, it stopped working out of the blue.
  2. I have a Krasnogorsk 3 which stopped working a long time ago. I can't wind it up anymore. Today, I pulled out the camera and had a look through the viewfinder with the original stock lens attached. Everything looked normal. I then mounted a Takumar 200mm f3.5 lens and looked again through the viewfinder and I could see a dark patch obscuring the right side of the screen. About a quarter of the viewfinder is dark (on the right hand side.) I also don't recall seeing this obscurity the last time I took out the camera over a year ago. I mounted the stock lens again and the far right of the viewfinder is still dark. I also noticed if I tilt the camera up while viewing a florescent light on the ceiling, the light becomes distorted at the top of the dark patch. Would anyone have any idea on what this is?
  3. I might go back to the original idea of using ground glass between the light source and the slide. It might be safer for the slide compared to opaque plastic. Though I do have another query. Would there be much of an issue if there is some empty space on the left and right sides of the ground glass and above it as well? It would basically mean that there is some undiffused light passing around the ground glass into the lens. If this would likely cause issues, I guess I could place fill up that empty space with black foam. When sourcing glass, I could grab a cheap picture frame. Then convert it to ground glass.
  4. Oh yea I'm sure that the polyethylene would have a limited life span being subjected to the heat. Though as I mentioned before, it wouldn't take much to replace it. Additionally, I'm planning to add a fan. I'll cut a small opening in the side of the rear box right next to the light and blow cold air directly in there. My only concern is ambient light getting into that opening (although obviously, I'll do the projecting in a darkened room.) I'll try and place the slide as far away from the light as possible while still getting a focused image. Ive just discovered that you can buy little compact battery operated fans. One or two of these could be placed inside the box. Though I'm not sure how powerful they are. They may only be very mild with their output but that's just a guess.
  5. Good point about the perspex. Speaking of heat tolerance, do you think it would be risky to use the type of opaque plastic that some orange juice bottles are made of? By the way, this DIY slide projector is only a short term project. I doubt I'll use it for much more than a few slide shows. Maybe less. And the slide shows themselves would be relatively short with a small number of transparencies projected. I guess I could always replace the opaque plastic with another piece if it's affected by the heat. I think I might use alfoil for the reflector. .
  6. I see the prices for ground glass are quite reasonable at Edmund Scientific. Looks like it's not quite straight forward to find small sheets of regular glass online. I wonder how perspex would fare if I rubbedd some silicone carbide powder on it. Over an hour ago, I did some testing with the Takumar 55mm f2 lens - projecting slides on to a white painted door with a small LED light. I'm quite impressed with this old M42 mount lens. Ive never mounted it on a camera but I like what I see with it's performance as a projection lens. Nice and sharp with good detail. But I can only see so much with the amount of ambient light around (not really a dark room.)
  7. Unless I get one of those vertical stands for a light bulb with no shade = light in all directions.
  8. Actually, ground glass and / or heat absorbing glass is going to raise the budget quite significantly for what was originally going to be a dirt cheap DIY project. Though I do know that some people convert regular glass to ground glass like this example here: Though he doesn't really mention if he does the other side of the glass or not. And actually, I was just thinking - a reflector behind the light may not be that effective in my set up. I would likely be using a desktop lamp which would be very directional. A lot of the light would be aimed in one direction - towards the slide.
  9. Dan, the double convex lens I have certainly does have a larger diameter than the slide I'm projecting. Though yea the more simple approach is more attractive to me. And yes, I did consider the fire risk with the baking paper! I was once on set as an extra on the Australian movie Hey Hey It's Esther Blueberger and I could see smoke coming from a nearby light with a coloured gel attached. I could try and locate some ground glass. Do you reckon the gg could be effective in reducing heat from the light source? And yes, a good idea about having a reflector behind the light - just like with a conventional slide projector. I did manage to locate that Takumar 55mm lens but it turns out that it's f2 rather than f1.8 (my memory must be placing tricks on me.)
  10. Previously, I made a camera obscura out of cardboard with a double convex lens. So I used that convex lens as a condenser lens last night for the DIY slide projector. I experimented with placing the slide and 50mm lens at different distances from the convex lens and got decent results. I couldn't see any difference when I varied the distance in small increments. Though when I removed the convex lens from the set up, I got a larger projected image (with just the 50mm lens and slide - moved closer to the light source.) The heat potentially damaging my Canon FD lens does have me concerned. I think I'll stop using it for this project. Somewhere I do have a Takumar 55mm lens that Ive never used. I could employ the Takumar for this project (if I can find it.) I think it might be the f1.8 version if I recall correctly. Though I haven't seen it in ages.
  11. Ah yes, Ive just had a look online about slide projector components and indeed, a condenser lens is needed. Yea I could look online for a spare one or one from a broken projector. I guess I could purchase a convex lens from an online store (magnifying glass etc) though I guess it would need to be the right focal length. And I see that a diffusion panel is not required. Though I do plan on having a rather short, casual slide show with some family members fairly soon so my crude setup will have to do in the meantime. It does project a slide on a wall so that's the main thing. Obviously, the output won't be as good as a commercially made slide projector. I'll probably use a regular household bulb in a desktop lamp. I am a little worried that the slide will be positioned very close to the light. I guess having a short projection duration with each individual slide would be wise. I notice a lot of commercially made slide projectors have built in fans for the bulb. Would that simply be to extend the life span of the bulb or reduce the heat on the slide (Or both)?
  12. Working on a project at the moment where I'm making a very basic, crude DIY slide projector with a few parts found around the home. Nothing fancy or elaborate. Sort of like a MacGyver slide projector (if he ever needed to make one.) A cardboard box with a circular hole cut out of it will be used to house the Canon FD 50mm f1.4 lens. I'll also make a cardboard stand for the slide to stand up vertically.Though I'm curious about the light source. Obviously, I want a nice, bright image projected. But I don't want a light that is so bright that it would cause harm to the slide. Most people know what happens when the film gets stuck in the gate of a movie projector. The stationary frame will burn. That actually happened to me once with a super 8 movie projector. I was running a film of mine where I had shot a time lapse sunset and I watched one of the frames freeze on screen and then burn. I stopped the projector straight away.Although I have used slide projectors in the past, Ive never taken a look inside them. Ive checked online and I notice some of them use 150w and 300w globes. Would there be any kind of diffusion panel to help project the slide? There's a youtube video on how to make a basic slide projector and they say one of the parts you need is a ground glass. But they don't actually mention how the ground glass is used. I'm assuming that the ground glass would be placed between the light source and the slide. I wonder if baking paper could be used instead as an alternative.The slide has to be very close to the light in order to get a focused image with the lens so it would be a pretty tight space for a diffusion panel.
  13. Nic Cupac, a grip in the camera crew of the Indiana Jones 5 production, has died on location in Morocco. Apparently, he was found dead in his hotel room. https://www.news.com.au/entertainment/movies/upcoming-movies/indiana-jones-5-crew-member-found-dead-on-location/news-story/621061f64797f3d302b93cd3cc4e809d
  14. A really horrible ordeal. According to one report, Halyna Hutchins said that she couldn't feel her legs after the shooting. So clearly, she was conscious for some time after being shot.
  15. The armorer and assistant director on the Rust production had both demonstrated unsafe work practices on previous films. Hannah Gutierrez fired a gun close to Nicholas Cage without any prior warning. Not surprisingly, the sound gave him a real shock. https://edition.cnn.com/2021/10/27/entertainment/armorer-rust-set/index.html And Dave Halls the AD had previously been fired on another film over gun safety issues. A crew member was injured in that incident. https://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-59055138 So with those two fools being recruited in addition to the fast paced shooting schedule and the availability of live rounds for 'off hours' target practise, all the elements were there for a potentially tragic outcome. it was like an accident waiting to happen.
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