Jean-Louis Seguin
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Posts posted by Jean-Louis Seguin
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Your camera is missing the whole rear cover plate which contains all the electronics necessary to power the motor. You’ll need to find an Arriflex expert who is very familiar with this model camera in order to get it going.
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Show us some pictures.
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A lens properly collimated for a film camera cannot at the same time be properly collimated for a digital camera with a thick filter stack in front of the sensor. This is especially critical with very short focal length lenses. Have your lens adjusted to the camera you are using.
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It’s made by CAPLUGS and its part number is RCL-20. I have a whole box of them somewhere if I can find them.
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The eyepiece adjustment on the RX-1 is a simple rack and pinion arrangement. Either the pinion is disconnected from the rack or the teeth on the pinion gear are broken.
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It is unique to this camera and very hard to find in good condition. One solution is to have the camera modified with an XLR power input.
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The focusing ring set screws are special dog-type set screws and they can only go in specific predrilled holes in the underlying ring. Never overtighten.
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The 50mm and the 75mm are lenses than work on both the Arriflex 35mm and 16mm cameras, so there’s no problem at all with these. If the 25mm is the f/1.4, it should be OK. The 10mm is the one to check very carefully. Most Arri cameras have an inching knob so you can slowly turn the shutter by hand to see if it obstructs the lens. Make sure the lens is set to infinity.
JL
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In the user’s manual for the 16BL, it states which lenses are OK to use with it. If it’s not on the list, it’s no good. I know some really old lenses like the 25mm f/1.5 , the 16mm f/1.9 and the very early 10mm before 1967 do not work as they would touch the mirror.
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You can order one from Rafcamera
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When used on a BMPCC, the Macro-Switar 36mm f/1.4 H8RX has a focusing range between approx. 6” and 30”, so macro only.
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Your footage is set for meters not feet.
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I’d like to offer advice but I’m confused.
Is it Aaton or Eclair ACL II ? -
If the D16 has a super-16 sized sensor, I doubt very much that the 10-150mm would cover at all focal lengths since it barely covers regular 16mm.
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What are you using currently to power the camera? To be safe, I would stick to 12V NiCd or NiMH packs.
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Actually I was mistaken. Ooops!
positive is pin 3, the top one in your picture.
pin 1 is negative, the bottom one.
pin 2, in the middle, is only used with a remote release accessory.
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You can use any regular C-mount zoom with the H8RX if you have a custom made turret which has one of the openings 2.213mm thicker. You might still get a little loss of quality at fully wide open aperture but at least you can focus the lens properly.
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According to my notes, using the 3-pin connector as the power input, connect positive to pin 3 and negative to pin 2. Trigger the motor by depressing the release button on the front.
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I recently powered an Arri 16S with this battery:
Worked quite well. Plenty of juice.
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Make sure both sides of the beamsplitter prism are clean and dust-free. Dust on the rear of the prism can show up on the image when the lens aperture is stopped down.
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The body shell of the Beaulieu is very soft metal and deforms rather easily if impacted. On the models with three lens turret, these also can often get deformed. You will be hard pressed to find many Beaulieu cameras given to students in film schools. They wouldn’t last very long. Bolex cameras are used almost universally in beginner classes.
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Hi everyone. I have finally set up a new website featuring some of the equipment I have for sale. I hope you will drop in for a visit.
bolexpert.com
Bolex SBM - Fitting a Vario Switar 86 Zoom
in Lenses & Lens Accessories
Posted
It’s not possible.
Only the bayonet versions work on the SBM.
Many other non-Bolex zooms will work fine.
JL