Jean-Louis Seguin

How is it that new Kodak stock manufactured in North America would be cheaper in the UK? It makes no sense to me.

No it's not instant. There will be some fogged frames between every shot.

These cameras often have defective toothed belt that needs replacing. This could be the problem. It's not hard to do. There are step-by-step instructions on how to do it online.

The EL pistol grip has a short cable with a 3-pin connector that plugs into the remote release socket on the camera. I have one available but I have to replace the plug. PM me if interested.

It definitely looks like a Schneider. Can't tell what focal length it could be.

The ground glass is the upper surface of the beamsplitter prism. It's one piece.

I don't think it will cause a problem. Maybe on the 5.5mm you can remove the short black ring and screw the 32-37 directly to the lens.

Where did you find this 32mm-37mm ring?

The answer is pop out the full bottom reel, in semi-darkness of course, put it back in light-proof box, and post off for processing.

What gear do you need exactly? I might have some.

First you have to get Arri mount lenses made for the 2C. Some in the series made for 16mm will certainly go too deep. I think I have some documentation about this.

The 10Ah battery pack would be an excellent choice if you can handle the weight stated at 5.3 lbs.

Arri 2C motors drain a lot of power. Battery capacity should be a minimum of 4Ah or 4000mAh. 5Ah to 10Ah is even better.

What mount?

From the picture, it doesn't appear darker but there is some pincushion distortion.

Very interesting. I tried this a few years ago and wasn't succesful. There's only so much light coming through and making the frame larger also made it darker.

I think it's related to the apparent size of an object when viewed at a distance of 25cm. This would be called 1x. So if you place a frame of 16mm film which has a width of 10.25mm at a distance of 25cm, it will have a width of 1x. A 6x viewfinder would display an image which appears 6 times as wide.

Cine60 is still in business and had brand new belts and empty belt casings to make your own. https://cine60.jimdo.com/

The film must be 1R or single perf. Yes the 3066 has a pan lock.

Actually, the preset Switar 10mm does focus closer than the old style. The old style focusing ring goes through a roughly 180 degree movement and the minimum focusing distance appears to be around 5-6 inches. The preset focusing ring goes through almost a full 360 degree movement and the minimum focusing distance appears to be about an inch from the front of the lens.

Trying to make this simple. Firstly, always focus a zoom lens with the aperture set to the maximum, in this case f/1.9. On a parfocal zoom lens, which the 16-100mm is, when you're adjusting the focus, you're essentially focusing the telephoto end of the range. The focusing ring has little effect on focus at the wide angle focal lengths where sharpness is entirely dependent on the back-focus adjustment, which you as the user have no control over. If your images are unsharp at the wide setting, the lens needs to be properly collimated. With short focus prime lenses, such as the 10mm, your first concern is whether the lens can give you sharp image of a object at infinity. A maladjusted lens might not be able to focus at infinity, rendering infinity subjects unsharp. A lens can also come adjusted where it actually goes past infinity, where again the result will be unsharp. The latter is less of a problem if you're focusing using the ground glass. You will eventually find the sweet spot. To collimate a prime lens is to ensure that the infinity setting is precise and that the distance markings on the barrel match the actual distances you're focused at. Most people describe vignetting in a subjective manner. To some, vignetting means obvious encroachment of the image circle in the area of the viewfinder. This could be described as hard vignetting. For others, any small difference in image brightness (darkening) in the corners compared to the centre will be described as vignetting. You could refer to this as soft vignetting. Technically, both of these lenses will vignette on super-16 to a greater or lesser extent, but for some the result is still considered acceptable.

The vast majority of super8 cameras have similar moving vane aperture systems.

That little object is a small peak-in mirror that send light to the photocell. It's perfectly normal.

Viewed from the front with the beamsplitter prism swung out, release the camera on "T". The edge of the shutter blade should be positioned 2mm to 3mm above the gate aperture.

The older ones were plastic and often would develop a crack down the middle and that's when all the little parts would go flying. Later ones were metal. Much better.