James Rydings

Thank you for your reply. How much is it likely to cost for a snip test? Also just to give me an idea roughly how long does stock generally last, is it a matter of months or years? And if I did a snip test and it turned out slightly fogged, would over exposing to increase the density help? James

I have some Fuji 250D, and then a mixture of Kodak Vision 2 (Mostly 7218), and some Kodak Black and White stock. Its all super 16. I am looking on the labels and cant find any dates. Where can I find the expiration date?

How long does stock last for in the fridge before it starts loosing sensitivity? I found some stock that has been in my fridge for about 2 1/2 years, would it still be ok?

That makes a lot more sense now. Thank you for your help David. James

I have heard of people using this filter when they need to pull the 85 to help slightly in correcting at no compensation loss, which is why I was wondering what it mired shift value was and how much it actually helped. Does it actually noticably help, and is this the main purpose of this filter or does it also have another purpose? Thanks, James

What is the mired shift value of the LLD filter, and how exactually does it work without requiring a stop compensation? James

Great thank you for your help.

What are the differences between the Kodak Vision2 250D, and the Fuji Eterna 250D? (Grain, color, contrast, handling over-under exposure, pushing/pulling, etc)

I am shooting a flashback scene for a short I will be shooting in Italy on super 16. The scene will be shot under a large tree in the middle of a golden field around sunrise, maybe with a bit of haze in the air (I have yet to decide this). I want to give it a saturated warm look with soft blown out highlights. I am thinking of using a Pola to give me cleaner colors and a little more saturation, and I will have a set of coral filters with me to give it a slightly warmer feel (compensating for it as the sun rises). I am also thinking of over exposing about 2/3rds or 1 stop and using a white pro mist filter to soften and blow out the highlights. I have never used the white pro-mist before so I am not sure of which one to use, as I dont want to over do it and unfortunately I will be unable to test it. Does anyone have any advice, or maybe some pictures of the varying white pro-mist filters? Or would you even recommend using a different filter to achieve this look? Regards, James

Thank you for your speady reply. I think I will use the 50D for the exteriors and the 250D for the interiors. However what would be the difference between pull processing and using the UltraCon Filter? I dont want the blacks to go milky. I am thinking of over-exposing 1 1/2 stop and pulling 1 stop. How does that sound?

I am shooting a short film on Super 16 in Tuscany Italy. I want to give it a low contrast, natural, soft look. I want to shoot with Cooke lenses but it will end up being Zeiss as the production can get them for free, so I will probably use a little diffusion. I am uncertain on which stock to use. My first thought is the Expression or Eterna, but being super 16 I would rather shoot on a slow speed stock around 100-200. Are there any slower speed low contrast stocks? Or should I just shoot on the 7217 or 7212 (maybe even the 7201) and pull process, or use a low contrast filter? Also what are the differences between the Eterna and the Expression?

Ah, its fixed now. I was worried for a little while there.

I am planning to do some cross processing on a super16 feature this summer. I plan on doing some tests however I just wanted to get some advice as to what different variables I should test? Pulling, pushing, under exposing, over exposing, magenta filter etc. Thanks, James

I am having a problem with one of my Zeiss T2.4 12-120 super 16mm zoom lenes. Sometimes the iris sticks when its wide open, and wont close. It tends to snap back if I zoom in and out a little, but this is obviously something that needs fixing as I could end up over exposing the film without realizing. Has anyone else experienced this before, and or know how I could get this fixed?

Thanks for your reply. I actually just realised that there is a FOV calculator in pCAM. James

Hi, Do you know of any software, or calculation I can use to work out the height and width of an object needed to fill the frame? I want to be able to work out for exampls, if I have a 50mm lense shooting on 35mm and the camera is 30ft away from the object, then what height and width would the object need to be to just fill the entire frame. I want to be able to work this out with different lenses, different formats, and different distances from the object. I am sorry if this is a little complicated. Let me know if you dont understand me. Thanks, James

Hi I just brough a super16 SRII but it doesnt have a video tap. I was told that all I need is a Jergens video assist, and a video tap and I can set it up myself. My questions are is this correct, and if so where can I buy a Jergens assist and a video tap, preferably second hand? Thanks, James

Yes my website is www.jamesrydings.com Thank you for your comments. James

I have a couple of music videos I would very much appriciate hearing what you think about them. http://www.jamesrydings.com/movies/HeldApartHighQuality.mov http://www.jamesrydings.com/movies/ThisGame.mov Thanks for your time. James

Hi I would very much appriciate some input on a couple of music videos I shot. The first one was shot on HD using Sony CineAlta F900, and the second was shot on super 16mm. http://www.jamesrydings.com/movies/HeldApartHighQuality.mov http://www.jamesrydings.com/movies/ThisGame.mov Thanks for your time. James