David Auner aac

Hi Bryce, have your Bolex checked and cleaned. That should take care of the scratches. Also, your film is pretty speckled with dirt, try and keep the interior and film very clean during loading. Secondly, be sure to use a tripod for test shoots like this. Makes it much easier to check for stuff if the frame doesn't bounce around as in some of your shots. As for softness, it's really hard to say with the vimeo file. Some shots looked pretty good to me. Maybe you could post some`full-res stills? Cheers, Dave

Hi Michael, I think there was a discussion about this on the boards a while ago. Use the Search function! Cheers, Dave

Yep, I work like that too for larger projects. It's quite common in our field here to invoice in that manner. Few companies reject that kind of deal. Cheers, Dave

No problem. And you're welcome! Cheers, Dave

Nope, no way except for zooming into the footage a little in post. As for why I guess it's due to the design of the aspheron. It's a .55 wide angle adapter after all,which is quite bit of a change! And some wide-angles will have light fall-off into the corners no matter what. Many WAs for large format photography have that, the Super Angulons for example. You sue a center filter to cure that in photography though. And you'd loose around 1.5 stops with those. Cheers, Dave

Hi Wai, Director's viewfinder on Wikipedia Cheers, Dave

Hi James, nope. You just screw it on. The 10mm needs to be of the newer, non-waited type. But if it is a preset you're all set. If they are indeed in good condition that is an excellent price! Enjoy your lens! The 10mm is my favorite lens on my Bolex, I don't dig the 5.5 that much though as the vignetting is a little too much for me. Cheers, Dave

Use it, but use it fast. IIRC Kodak will stop processing Kodachrome in mid-2010! Cheers, Dave

Hi John, feel free to ask me any time if you did ;) Jim, John made that chart I only host it on my site! Cheers, Dave

It's called a Director's Finder! Cheers, Dave

Hi John, here's the link again: DOF chart Cheers, Dave

Try changing the dpx file options in your post app. Play around with LUTs... Cheers, Dave

Hi Adrian, all the best from this part of the world too! May the light be favorable to you in times to come and if it is not, may you be creative in adjusting it! Drinking to your health right now with a glass of Welschriesling (a local kind of dry white wine). Cheers, Dave

Hi Konstantin, possible reasons for your footage being too dark on your Rex-5... 1. Partially closed variable shutter. You should see an extremely obvious triangle protruding from the bottom of your finder. You can't miss it if it's there. 2. You set the wrong ISO or shutter on you Canon when metering. You should set it at 1/80th at 24fps to account for the light loss in the beam splitter (you lose around 1/3rd of a stop). 3. Your film was old. 4. There's an ND filter in your behind-the-lens filter tray. 5. Your camera is running too fast. 6. There is something wrong with importing the dpx files. What telecine house did you transfer at? Are they using log or lin LUTs? That's all I can think of right now... Cheers, Dave PS: Oh, and clean that windshield! ;)

Yep, that finder is part of the lens. It's a so called "dog-leg" reflex finder for use on non-reflex cameras such as the Bolex H16 and a whole load of others. My guess is that it is an old Angenieux with a C mount if I am not mistaken. Quite common out there! Cheers, Dave

Thanks John, thanks again Chris. I'll see what I can find! Cheers, Dave

Hate-love relationship? Masochism? :D. No, I bet Phil loves what he does so much, he puts up with all the hardship. As we all do sometimes! Cheers, Dave

Ok. Dang. I may have to switch my practicals to bare bulbs then. Hm... Not as cool as fluros in this case, but workable. It's a dungeon type basement after all. Thanks, mate! Cheers, Dave

I'm trying to get the effect of broken fluros. I don't actually want to dim them, which would of course be possible quite easily with a dimmable high frequency ballast. Chris suggested the method I described for that kind of flicker if I read him correctly. Cheers, Dave

Hi Chris, I'll have to come up with a way to create fluro flicker for my next shot, so are you saying you're putting two dimmers in series and a fluro at the end? Or is your idea feasible with incandescents only? And what kind of dimmers does one use? I tried one of my cheap homedepot dimmers on a fluro today. It started buzzing loudly and started coaling several components very quickly! Cheers, Dave

IIRC there are Century Optics ones as well. A 1.8mm to (I think). Just google! And I'm sure we talked about that here too. Cheers, Dave

Hi Michael, looks really good. Mine is still there too! I was supposed to be up there in July but that never came to be. Will have to give Dresel a call soon! Cheers, Dave PS: You're reading/have read Stockhausen? Wow! ;)

Have it converted to Super yourself. Shouldn't cost that much at a reasonable shop (e.g. Les Bosher's or Bernie O'Doherty's). I bet they could easily replace that gate... Cheers, Dave

Same here. Thanks for some of the most curious and interesting tidbits of film making and it's history. and all the best for the next year and many more to come! Hip hip hooray! Cheers, Dave

Yep, that could've gone real bad real quick. If there was enough gas in the air a spark from an igniting lamp or a light switch CAN be enough to ignite the stuff, at least so I'm told. I'd say when safety of crew and talent is concerned there is no such a thing as being overly cautious! Cheers, Dave