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carl spring

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About carl spring

  • Birthday 06/02/1986

Profile Information

  • Occupation
    Other
  • Location
    England UK/ London
  • Specialties
    The light that casts the shadow

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.gamingretro.tk
  1. i was referring to the sensor size and the ability to close the iris to give less shallow DOF, but if you wanted the ultra shallow DOF offered by larger sensors, on a smaller sensor, you would be required to zoom in. I may be wrong, and apologies if that is the case, however this is my understanding as it stands. Jay, might be worth shooting on super8 with the amount of good footage i have, it's hard to be meticulous lol (really want to shoot something else before submission, but just don't have the time for the edit etc.) not sure how long mine will be, i don't want longer then 10mins (as it will become boring). really hate being on the computer all the time. I wanna go shoot! peace out Carl
  2. i agree, GO RED, 35 adapters aren't worth the effort and can leave some horrible outcomes shoot a high iso, control with ND and get the grain in camera. but would be better to get the quality image and create your own in post (as you will be stuck with the noise once on the master) everything step should lead to the quality of the output(dependant on what that is). Just make sure you use red to it's strengths. don't be frightened by red, embrace it. read the manuals on Red.com if you are unsure about interface etc. They are very straight forward. and as always people on here will answer questions for you. good luck and avoid adapters when possible peace out Carl ps. when you finish your showreel, we shall compare. really want to see the competitions work lol (i am very nervous about it all)
  3. Panasonic Varicam is sharper and cleaner but more costly. DOF isn't an issue as you can always add depth (harder to take it away). compression really isn't that bad on the canon 7D. i know some people have had issue with moire but not really an issue for most situations, alot nicer footage from it then alot of cameras i have used. i have a good fix for rolling shutter if that becomes a problem(same as other rolling shutter issues etc). although avoiding is the best way lol, A very flexible camera. would avoid RED due to the hassle of transcoding the file type. but how you use your footage in post will decide on quality either way lots of choice out there with the right know how, everyone on here will provide the knowledge base and are always very helpful peace out Carl
  4. grain in shake, can change size of grain, amount, density, type etc etc. anything you want you got it my demo is where i think 16mm would be roughly with the type of grain http://www.vimeo.com/11079567 peace out Carl
  5. ps. will do some tests later for you, so you can decide on the post grain. looking at it, shake has the best out of the two i mentioned
  6. digital has it's own grain. which can look nice, I got a canon 7D if you want, your more then welcome to borrow it. has a nice grain to it, dependant on how you use it(iso, edit sequence codec settings etc.) post grain can look ok, dependant on what you use. color and shake have ok grains, controllable to an extent. may be worth a look. peace out Carl
  7. That's an inspiring technique Bob :) . Has anyone ever tried it like this or similar? any examples of work (your own or others) would be cool. gotta love to learn. could look quite cool (a bit 'in cold blood' esq if the rain is filmed maybe through some glass?) could be very nice. I may very well have to try that in a week or so (if it rains. sunny here at the moment). I will post my findings ciao for now Carl
  8. I'm with the rest of them on this one, PARs are cheap and friendly as are Ellipsoidal. Using the foam boards are a good idea kyle, but would suggest a second source(non diegetic) to bounce it to give that soft moonlight on the actors. Kudos on the use of the projector in the time of need Eric. can't say i would have thought of that (or had them to hand), A good boy scout is always prepared ;) Good luck with the setup kyle, post your results. Kindest Regards Carl
  9. for you jason, i would say blast through those beautiful windows just like Serge say's and cut the 35mm adaptor out of the equation and just keep you DOF low by using NDs and keeping the aperture open. the effect can be delicious I would not bounce above but maybe side light(both right and left as is a natural thought for windows and light to some from all around in a church) the entire interior of the church using most of the 2k tungstons diffused(I know it seems like the easy way out to diffuse, but the effect would be nicer i think on this occasion) and stick them on Flood (maybe with some nice Amber gels? for some nice warmth and comfortable tones?, or without gels for the cold tones you are talking about). use the pillars as some nice flagging and a good way to hide stands etc, stick 4x HMI 1.2 blasting behind the stained glass windows (at front) use 800w as filling for frontal shots. That at a glance i Would start with that setup. and no doubt probably edit from there, switch every other side light off and check the feel of the setup. if all that fails, turn the sidelights all around to face the wall(without diffusion). turn one of the exterior HMIs off and bing badder boom soft light and beautiful effect, possibly worth a go to start as an easier option lol. What do people think, have i gone crazy or does it sound like it could work? sorry if confusion comes from this post, writing isn't my forte and my mind wanders alot :P Hope this helps in some crazy way Carl
  10. looks like a power house of cinema style, i shall have to do as Ralph does and put them on my list. Thats the brilliant thing about cinema, you can look back and feel inspired Thanks all Carl
  11. you are right steve :). unfortunately, i haven't set up a website yet with any recent work (and have my edit suite currently being lent to a friend, and my CV is a bit thin(so isn't worth posting just yet). so here is a link to my old myspace page http://www.myspace.com/thegoof , most work on there is outdated but are some general small examples of work i did as a student, please feel free to take a look. cheers
  12. Hi, I am looking for some experienced DOPs that i can work with in order to grow in my art. so if anyone is willing to take on a enthusiastic person who is willing to work hard and learn, then please let me know, as i would love to meet you. I am relatively talented in most areas of working in moving image (Just so you know, i am not deadweight). I want to grow with experience. have almost finished working camera on a feature up in leeds called 'Last day's of edgar harding' with DOP David Beaumont if anyone would like to meet that would be great :) , i am currently living in London (UK) Kindest Regards Carl Spring
  13. i do indeed have that beautiful lense. i have a adapter but it is true i could do with some sort of protection(uv,polorizer type item) for the lens. as it is in perfect condition and i want it to stay that way. Thanks for all you help on this topic Ian. you are very helpful. Chow for now Carl :ph34r:
  14. good points, cheers Ian :lol: , i will just get a nice lens hood for it then.
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