Rolfe Klement

Been a while since I have posted here... Anyone have any experience with this light and what do they think of it? http://www.fxphd.com/blog/toptech-trucolor-lights/ I saw some tests and it looked pretty amazing - not cheap - but then again good lighting is never cheap. thanks Rolfe

Dear All Please email me at studio@creativesunshine.com if you would like to sell your Arri HMI (par, fresnel or Max) . We need one or 2 small units. Ideally Arri M18's. We are based in London. thanks Rolfe

Dear All Selling some spare dedolights that we don't use much any more. 1x DLH4, 1 X DLH4 with DP1 85mm Projector, 1 x 1000W tungsten softbox, with dimmer, octodome and grid (really beautiful lights!) Based in London. Check out our work on www.creativesunshine.com http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110946281011#ht_859wt_1141 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dedolight-DLH4-12-24v-tungsten-lamphead-ballast-scrims-DP1-85mm-projector-/110946274576?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item19d4e9cd10#ht_762wt_1398 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dedolight-DLH4-12-24v-tungsten-lamphead-ballast-scrims-with-aspherics-2-/110946267938?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item19d4e9b322#ht_552wt_1398 thanks Rolfe

Doesn't usually happen but we moved to a Preston system. Our one was hardly ever used. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110879704668#ht_748wt_1141 We are based in Wimbledon and can demo the unit etc. thanks Rolfe Klement www.creativesunshine.com

Now I am selling my 85mm T1.3 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/My-2nd-Lens-Arri-85mm-T1-3-PL-Lens_W0QQitemZ110706867007QQihZ001QQcategoryZ3323QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ht_485wt_1158 Thanks Rolfe www.creativesunshine.com

It has been a while since I have been on the forum - wow! Slowly getting rid of my huge collection of film equipment. Our studio is based in Wimbledon, London and would prefer collection - but could consider shipping. I currently have an ebay auction running on this lens http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110703799183&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_500wt_1156 Please don't post offers, prices or quotes etc here - rather email me. I also have (all 35mm Arri lenses) 85mm T1.3 40mm T2.1 16mm T2.1 - the 16mm has the back pins knocked out for super close focus - the rear element has some tiny scuff marks cause someone (who shall remain nameless) pulled the lens element into the shutter on our film camera - To be honest even at 2K from 35mm on a Da Vinci resolve it is hard to see any issues - but you can have it reground for about £300. Also got loads of grip equipment, A fully working (we shot with it 2 weeks ago) Arri 2C PL mount with variable shutter and 1-80 Frames - every possible mount - remote VA etc etc. Monitors - small / big / wireless. I will probablly run the sales through e-bay unless someone has a better idea. Email me at studio@creativesunshine.com thanks Rolfe www.creativesunshine.com A small selection:

Same issue for me. It turned out to be the mount point between magazine and body - either loose screws, body damage, magazine mount damage or missing paint etc. Easiest solution is to do a old fashioned camera test. Place camera in dark room with no lens and lens cap in place. Do film test with magazine mounted. Use video camera with mic to film entire test. Turn on video camera then turnover film camera. Shine light around body into lens cap and all around. When you get developed film back - sync video camera footage to film footage (using turnover point) and you will know where the fault is. thanks Rolfe www.creativesunshine.com

Been super busy - but a quick question... Are there any adaptors that allow me to put a MF lens (like Hasselblad etc) on my PL mount 35mm arri. I want to do blurry wide shots with nice DOF. thanks Rolfe www.creativesunshine.com

Great work! I have been shooting quite a few things recently with the Nikon D90 - if I could figure out the rolling shutter issue -then it would be even more amazing http://www.vimeo.com/5536311 thanks Rolfe

Light is not just about electiricty and lamp heads. I have recently had to remind myself to learn how to use black frames and white foam-board. 3 6ftx6ft frames, black, white and bounce fabric, 4 stands and some sand bags can create some amazing shots. Da Vinci worked without electricity :-) I have one of the huge octodomes and the mounting just broke off last week (and the light dropped onto the talent..) but I used a MSE grip head to mount to the light and it works better - the bolt holding the octodome is not ideal... and I had 2 Dedo DL4 bulbs pop on me but they were being abused so that is understandable - but otherwise I hammer the lights and they are working fine. For low budget - get 2 DP lowel lights and a RIFA - and the above frames and fabric. my 2 cents Rolfe

quick question - what is the current status of the SAG vs AFTRA issue. I saw SAG are having a big meeting about it today or tonight? thanks Rolfe

I am traveling to Chicago and was wondering what places people recommend if I want to buy some lighting equipment - HMI's or grip equipment... new or used thanks Rolfe

To prevent the camera hunting you can press the AE-L (hold) button before or during switching to LiveView (LV) mode. Use these steps to set your camera for AE-L (hold): Menu > Custom Settings (Pencil Icon) > f (controls) >> Assign AE-L/AF-L Button > AE lock (hold) > OK thanks R

I got mine on ebay but Visualproducts do one new thanks Rolfe

I want to do it since I can now lock the exposure on the D90 in video mode but I want to pull focus on shots I have a wireless FCU system (Bartech and Preston) and want to get my 1st pulling focus on it. My one Preston costs at least 9 times the D90 - but I want to give it a go... I was told that it was IMPOSSIBLE to get a Arri PL to C mount - then I found one online for USD25! and it works great - my 85 T1.3 is almost a 400 at T1.3 so some great shots. I got over my obsession with wide angle lenses a while ago ;) But a 10mm PL on a Nikon D90 will be fine anyway thanks Rolfe

I have a 35mm arri lenses. I have a 35mm to c mount but not a 35mm to nikon mount Does the manual mounting screw up the nikon D90 lens sensors and disable the camera - in the same way as mounting a lens with a closed f stop does? thanks Rolfe

I bought one of the first Mole Biax's for 240V and it was rock solid. It feels more solid then the Kino for me- but the Kinos are very good but some of their accessories feel really cheap (the barn door / snoot thing made of cardboard for their barfly light is an example) thanks Rolfe

I have been doing something weird and was not sure if anyone else has been doing this. I can only use this on very static shots Basically - I have been using a 50mm projector attachment on a tiny dimmed DLH4 dedolight (very soft and very small - using 4 steel leaves) to fix bags under eyes etc in classic large over-camera frontal softbox lighting I liken it to very accurate painting of the problem areas with subtle light... Does anyone else do this - or have any advice about it? The problems I have are matching color temp and edge blending - the levels are easy cause of the in-built DLH4 dimmers. With edge blending if the light is defocused (racked all the way back on the slider) and the 50mm light lens is out of focus it is ok but not perfect. Make sense? thanks Rolfe

exactly - the point of these are to learn beauty lighting - reading about it only took me so far... :-) So recessed eyes, bulging eyes, large chin, large nose, big teeth etc all require a very very specific head angle. I now am getting a model on set and she is really good with all the lessons - legs turned in look thinner, chin down, eyes up, eye brows down, pushing breasts towards camera, shoulders and neck lines, chin position on top of spine etc The light size, intensity and angle is really important as well. It is really really bright for the model - this is how we crunch the background down. On these stills we use photoshop but we are not allowed to mask - which means that we could theoretically achieve the same look in TK Our new studio is a car garage that we converted and it has a pit for getting under cars - we painted a dark matt color - the spectrality, glossiness and anistrpoic of the back ground is very important. We bought some cheap 8ft x 4ft boards of wood and paint them with different paints to get different results. Wre shoot against brick ,wood, glass, plastic sheets, anything really I used a DP light with a vertical strip of light created using the barn doors - I would really like to try work with a dedo with projector attachment - but can't justify the cost now. Flagging and scrims are becoming more and more important - especially with soft light. I bought a roll of black foil and with some clamps most things can be done (regarding flagging etc) thanks Rolfe

they are from a still camera - a nikon D90 thanks Rolfe

using a 50mm T1.3 or 1.4. The look has been green / blue processed. Really shallow DOF at T1.3 or so. Fuji Vivid 160T emulation. All tungsten - no filters I am doing this as an exercise to understand single person beauty lighting - then moving to wider shots then multiple groups. We now have a studio and some time so seems like a good idea... :-) thanks Rolfe

A tunnel in our new studio. One Lowel light and NO FANS this time :-) Starting to understand the importance of the nose shadow. There is life, breathing then the nose shadow... Actually no - there is the nose shadow then the other stuff. One of my friends assists a very serious fashion guy and they get fired if the light is 3cm out of place! Been making progress on wrapping my head around this beauty look thingy... Also the make up artist is the most important person on set - above the DOP ;-) And they usually get paid more then anyone as well. Any positive or negative feedback? thanks Rolfe

I need to figure out a good "kirk light" Any ideas? This is the light effect I got on the nose but needs a wider shape and softer edges thanks Rolfe

and a red hair light. And loads of negative fill. And a wonderful make up artist and a great model Been working hard on the beauty shots recently Below is a shot of the studio equipment we had. I built a 6x6 light and a ring light for this shoot and hardly used them. Tell me what you think! thanks Rolfe

Actually - super hard lighting is often used. Just look through any Vogue or VF magazine `But you need seriously good skin to make it work. Soft lighting works on normal people as well ;-) thanks Rolfe