S8 Booster

Actually the sound recorded with some S8 sound cameras are very good and comparably better than many video cams of newer models. Those cams has a sound like synthesized and pretty noisy, even those which record onto a chip without motors for a tape drive. My Canon 1014 XL-S + Canon Boom Microphone BM70 the recordings were very good even indoor. The 1014 has several filters and record setting making it fit the required recording situation. The trick with direct recording is to shoot longer takes to have a possibility to take care of the "async" 18 frame to sound to picture delay when editing. The master trick is - if one had a proper editing table ala steinbeck it would be possible to transfer the recorded sound off the original film onto a separate magtape on the Steinbeck and edit the S8 film like any film and there after record the sound back onto the original without the time delay problem where the film is spliced. Wet dream. One of my last projects with the "Chrome" sound film was to use a Sennheiser wireless "midget" mike system + plugging the base into the external mike or line input on the cam. This would eliminate any camera noise even more. Unfortunately the wireless mike system was stolen before I managed to test it. You may compare these videos, in my view the S8 sound is much beefier and natural compared to that from the videocam. S8, Canon 1014 XL-s but with a Sankyo hand mike dangling under the cam due to that the BM70 was broken at the time so there is cam noise on this take. Sound is set to full auto, no filter which isn't optimal, should have been set manually using headphones. Anyway: https://youtu.be/AZqb15_WM1M?t=1m7s Same plane shot with a video cam: Another S8 shot with the Canon but with BM70 boom mike. Still full auto. No bass filter on to reduce cam noise. Sound partly much over boosted but stil beefy sound. https://youtu.be/j0SkygGcmx0?t=4m37s Another S8, many indoor shots, C1014 XL-S + BM70 , partially Bass cut filter used to eliminate cam noise. All S8 films shot at 18 FPS, Tape hiss would have been reduced significantly at 24 FPS.

A laser job on the ground glass will hide nothing between the object and the magic...

Better clip: V200T with and without the "Frame Master": http://www.andecfilm.de/assets/docs/mpgs/neg_7274.mpg

Some "Frame Master" demo klips here: http://www.andecfilm.de/en/e_demo-bildstand.htm

The pressureplate was originally developed to try to correct / compensate for production failures with the kodak cartridges. In the early 2Ks the film jammed, film waved & breathed heavily. The PP did i prove a little apaert from jamming which was a direct assembly failure. If your camera is worn do not expect euureka experience but it has the potential to improve imperfectio. It eill run a little heavier. There is some promo clips om thr net somewhere. Check thrm out an see for your self.

The Canon 1014 XL-S & Nikon R10 + more use dual beamsplitters, the Canon use one for accurate AE1 light measuring and one for the view. I own lots of top end cameras like the 1014, the R10, Elmo 1012 S-XL, Beaulieu 5008 MS, Chinon XX, + +. Would never complain about brightness or view with any of them, the 5008 may be give the best view area. Focussing is all good but the 5008 with ground glass takes more time to set right focus. So where is the viewfinder pickup chip located on the Logmar or Kodak? Suppose there must be a beamsplitter somewhere in the light path between the lens and the film plane unless they use rotating mirror shutters or the Beaulieu style mirror shutter? Good thing about LCD viewfinder is that the brightness can be amplified. LCD viewfinders on consumer Video cams are useless in bright daylight so a traditional viewfinder on the K & L cam could be very useful.

just for reference. if you look at the table i posted and use say a 10mm lens for reference on both the S8 and 16mm side of the chart you will see that the angle of view corresponds to 33° for the S8 and to 55° for the 16mm respectively. given same 10mm lens if it fits both "cams" without physical vignetting. shoot......

It is actually Norwegian but it is certainly translated from the book your refer to or another in the category. Can not remember which one. Too long time since I borrowed it and did this scan to remember. Just thought of it as the "Bible" of film making :) Shoot....

should be about 1 stop from last time i measured, btw.... "all" S8 camz operate with T-stop readings by the internal metering. shoot.....

you may find this thread useful: How far will synch drift if I shoot a cartridge in one take shoot.....

the problem with Sankyos... are that they are truly not great cams and doesent really produce great images but ofcourse it is allowed to dream..... not sure if the name is spelled Sankyo or S-I-M-P-L-E or Santo....... shoot.....

still may add that the light loss in the 2.nd light metering prim steals much less light than the viewfinder one as it does not need to be calibrated for the human eye but rather just distributing a very small amount of light to the very sensitive light cell and the exposure system are calibrated thereafter. 2 square presicion prisms wont add any destortion to the image as they will not be curved like the optical elements in the light path. a little light loss thatr is all.... shoot.......

grain is more or less generated by incorrect exposure either by incorrect camera exposurecontrol or user error. cameras like Canons 814/1014 XLS which has the most advanced and efficient exposure control system ever designed for ANY motion picture film camera allways exposes the film on the "high" side to supress grain in auto mode - and it does. all my main stay cameras has bright viewfinders in low light either it is the Canon, the Nikon R10 or the Beaulieu 5008 MS. shoot......

the simpler cams use 1 beamsplitter in the light path while the advanced oned use 2: one for the viewfinder and 1 for the lightmetering ensuring a bright viewfinder AND bullet proof exposures at the cost of some light loss. ecample Nikon R10 & R8: the only cameras as far as i know to use mirror shutters and thus give no light loss in the film path are Beaulieu 2000 to 9000 series and Fujica ZC1000. the Beaulieu is plagued with poor original lenses in low light condition though (severe vignetting) and possibly a design problem with the goulitine shutter which - it seems allow for uneven light distribution over the film path unlike rotating disc shutters. cams with mirror shutters have a flickering view in the viewfinder while shooting. beaulieus read exposure data via a beamsplitter in the viewfinder path and this requires big compromises in readings because the no shoot reading is quite a bit higher than the one it reads while shooting which makes the film be incorrectly exposed in shoot mode unless it is compensated for or if the the exposure control is locked prior to shoot. the reason for the inacurate beaulieu auto exposure control is the flickering light appearing in the viewfinder while shooting and since the light metering cell use the same flickering licht fior measuring inaccuracy and compromises are unavoidable. true beamspiltter cams have none of these problems at the cost of some light loss. shoot....

yup.... it does the French "Beaulieu" pretty correct though......

ta-daaaaaa..... move ur mouse pointer onto the "beaulieu" word.... http://www.howjsay.com/index.php?word=baul...p;submit=Submit shoot....

you can verify the cart/speed notching here: http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Super_8_Ca...dge_Notch_Ruler a correctly notched 100D cartridge should have the same slot dimention at a 160T cartridge bu no notch for the daylight 86 fiter = automatically disabled and sets the cam speed to 100(D) the vision 200T cartrige left is actually notched for 100D although it should have been 160T/100D by using the built in 85 filter.

no, it is not a camera to exercise cinematography on. it is an all auto auto focus camera. canon camera-museum http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/...2_af310xls.html

was santo really booted from this forum? you can still enjoy him writing articles in Schmalfilm. youll recognize the stuff when you read it its a continuation of the awkward stuff he posted here. all non-verified stuff as usual. hes taken a step up in his view i guess. anyway, his and many of the posters here and on the shoot8 and other forums real problem is that he/they/u dont really shoot film. for a real filmmaker! on whatever level the thing is to have a fairly ok cam with some manual controils. from there it is up to you. for the time being the only professionally made real s8 made recently that springs to mind is Alex`Beta film. that took some effort an knowledge to make - all on K40. filmmaking relies on the filmmaker - gear selection is secondary personal preferrences. and none of you guys yet ever spotted that severe optical vignetting on schneider glas?.....

? tested more carts = same result? ? what kind of film stock/material/manufacturer? ? taken up the loop? ? cleaned the gate according to manual? ? fresh proper (no rechargeable!) batteries? this camera is generally very stable and the pressure plate may not be good for it - can jam due to extremely tight tolerances.

alessandro machi that is.

alex on this board got a few and can/could provide some info if he wanted.

http://filmshooting.com/scripts/forum/view...c4f31c0cadd4d63