Aapo Lettinen

I found this article interesting, maybe you want to read it too (for a lighting reference etc) http://provideocoalition.com/index.php/aadams/story/1000fps_on_a_budget/

"Why do we need color correction? The material is already FullHD!" "Only elitists shoot 35mm film anymore. 5D Mark II has better image quality with fraction of a cost. AND it has better deep of field." "I don't believe you saying that's not a good camera for this work. It's footage looks so brilliant." ( on YouTube :huh: ) ---------------------- (Low budget indie film. Shooting on 5D) DP: "But I really need those light stands. I can use the theater lights you got (for free), but can't do much with those (self-made, non-adjustable) stands. I also need some rigging parts, those lights are heavy. Renting is not so much..." "And it would be fine to get an follow focus and onboard monitor, or at least z-finder etc. otherwise we'll have huge focusing problems and have to have much more retakes. Those still lenses have too tiny focus scales for this work." "...and if I get the onboard monitor you can also use your own monitor and actually see what we are getting, 5D shuts down its own lcd if we use the video out connector" Director-producer: "Ok... can't promise anything. But I think we can also do fine without them if we get short of money" (Director-producer uses the camera budget to catering for extras, buying things he could have borrowed, etc.) (Editing the film) Director-producer: "Oh no! You lost the focus again! (take 11/12) (mourning)I don't understand why it's so damn difficult to get it right..." DP: "----" Director-producer: "If I only had my own monitor to see what was going on. I don't understand why we could not connect it to your 5D.... we lost too much time with those focus problems" "(and I don't like the lighting either)" <_<

I tested Orwo UN54 couple of years ago... only home developing to b/w neg. I pretty much liked it's grain texture and mild contrast. Looks like old low con news footage to me. I think it's worth testing. http://www.filmotec.de/?cat=23&lang=en Andec and Wittner in Germany have it, I don't know about US deals. http://www.andecfilm.de/en/e_16mm_sw.htm http://www.wittner-kinotechnik.de/katalog/04_filmm/16_filmm.php

Just got my friend's 16BL for couple of weeks... It seems to work pretty well with 12v gel batteries. these are quite cheap... but also heavy compared to nimh or nicd. I use 12v / 7 Ah batts

My friend uses Sandisk's newer extreme III 30MB/s cards and he says those are working fine w/5D2. Heard similar comments from other users, too. I myself use 60MB/s cards, mostly becourse the material can be transferred little faster to the laptop (And I always have that extra speed if something eats more bitrate than it should to; its good to be safe, though, even if it never happens :rolleyes: )

http://web.canon.jp/imaging/eosd/firm-e/eo...2/firmware.html I'm just started testing it right now. Seems like the prev jitters quite much in "24" and "25" modes. I'm also feeling the rolling shutter problem is maybe a little bit worse with 24&25. Not sure yet. Not sure if there's just a little bit of ghosting also. It's minor anyway if there's any. Post your results when getting your hands on it <_<

Have not got the vid tap yet, but here's the prism system:

Sorry guys my cgi sucks ;)

the film was maybe little conical or there was some problem with the counter. The film made up too much resistance and the sprocket wheel ripped the perfs....this happened with all cartrs. as I remember, my cores were that 15.8 / 2mm type. I have to service the mags again and check the problem. #as I remember, the K1 cores have bigger inner hole than K2 cores. the mags are little different anyway and can't be switched betw. cameras without modifications. (K1 camera has bigger aligning pin)

those K-carts are very useful if you have to switch between stocks very often during the shoot. single cartridges are lot more easier to handle than 2 daylight spools which have to be handled and stored together if you don't want to cut your neg into pieces <_< I tried this switching method in Norway last year, I had 50D in some mags and 500T in the other mags. When I needed extra speed I simply switched the mags. My K2- mags cant handle more than 20m of film without problems. In Norway I used 15m loads :unsure:

I just made quite a LOL modification to my K2. I am going to take a videoassist image out of the light meter's beam splitter... when I get the camera module in place I'll post some pics. the 3-prism system which reflects the WF image out of the front housing is already in place :P

I don't know any reversal stock with tonal range more than 6 stops. How about using Kodak Ektachrome? (5285) It is much more easier to get in big rolls and it is factory perforated to B&H. edit. and it is also cheaper. and you can also get short ends of it. http://www.tapesuperstore.com/ek52core.html

I have done some E6 work with Tetenal kit using 7285 and Lomo tank. I wasn't very precise during processing but I would say that about 2-3 ºC varies in temperature can be definetely seen on film. I think it's mostly an issue when you try to match different rolls together, it is very hard to keep the process fully repeatable all the time. And wet film can be scratched very easily, you have to be very precise when handling the film after prosessing. I think it's quite impossible to get best possible results in the conditions you mentioned. But if you want, go for it.

Oh, sorry. We had 300w Lilliput set and two 800w Redheads. We called them all "Ianiros". It is quite usual here to call all open face fixtures as "redheads". (if a light fixture was accindentally in frame, our director usually yelled "move that Kino out of there", no matter what kind of light it actually was: open face, fresnel.... :huh: )

Thanks Matthew :lol: Maybe I used too much that "golden" light effect. But I really like it :) I can maybe post some kind of video sample later if our producer gives me permission ;)

i shot this 70-minute long feature this summer with Sony's PMW-EX1. I have never done any 'real' lighting before. Some of the shots looked quite good, some of the other ones, hm, didn't. But here's a link to the photostream, please comment :lol: http://www.flickr.com/photos/15097450@N02/...57608865240032/

my H16RX (rex0 from 1957) runs 28 seconds at 24fps. i recorded the running noise once and calculated the fps, if I remember correctly it was about 25.5 fps with full spring and 23.5 fps at the end. the camera ran very smoothly. at 32 fps it started from about 34 fps and was about 30 at the end. My camera can't handle over 40fps without problems. (my K2 runs 50fps without any problem :lol: )

Have some rolls lying around, dunno how old they are :ph34r:

I didn't mention that's NOT my own camera I just found it from the web. But anyway... :P I know what you NEVER want to try with your own camera: http://www.flickr.com/photos/15097450@N02/...57605739902923/

I think this is a bit more pimped K-camera than yours Kristian http://www.owyheesound.com/images/owyheeso...6mm_camaera.jpg :P It is on this site: http://www.owyheesound.com/krasnogorsk.html

I like K2 too :rolleyes: Loading the magazines is quite nasty becourse I don't have any kind of device to spool the film to those cores. Winded it manually using my fingers, huh :blink: (only 40 feet not 100 usually ;) ) I also converted it to s16 but have no tools to collimate it. Still works fine in r16. :unsure: (the Meteor 5-1 seems to cover the s16 frame when about below 50mm and under f2.0 or something. btw, are those f or T -stops?) # OMG can I use Kinor zoom in K2? :huh: If so, I'll maybe visit the Ebay soon ;)

I opened my K2 once, and reattached the sprocket wheel (which drives the film) to a slightly wrong position. this causes sometimes that the wheel jams. Try to open the pressing wheels, if it is this kind of problem it should help immediately. (you hear a huge 'click' or 'crack' and then the camera works again :rolleyes: )

Hi, I'm wondering if it is safe to use pure 2-propanol (isopropyl alcohol) for lens surfaces. I have used it for my old Switars and an old Fujinon eng zoom, it worked without issues. But I'll maybe shoot a part of a small-budget feature soon (or work as an ac) and must to know if this stuff can harm the multicoating or filter surfaces ( my friends assume that can happen :ph34r: ) (the lens isn't mine, and it is more expensive too, so raping the coatings would be a shame, although I know the lens is already scratched by others :rolleyes: ) #It will be about five years old 2/3" Fujinon tv zoom and Formatt filters, I don't remember details. thank you for answering :lol: