Aapo Lettinen

AI is a producer's tool to cheap on costs and time. It was never about artistic expression nor meant to be used by artists. There is not much difference between making some scenes with ai and making the whole product with ai. It is still 100% about saving time and costs no matter what the end result is

Here they sometimes use spike vests on hunting dogs to prevent wolf attacks if they run on wolf territory. Small pet dogs are just kept on leash. We have eagles here but never heard them harassing dogs. The wolves do attack hunting dogs often

If one has possibility to choose, I would only look for camera options which have orientable viewfinder and which are easy to get serviced for reasonable price. One really does not have much reason to use fixed finder camera on 4k price range when one can get much higher quality mechanics and better tripod operating ergonomics with orientable finder models from Eclair, Cinema Products, Kinor and the arri16bl is ok too. Fixed finder cameras are for backpack documentary stuff and home movies and film students who cannot source better camera for practicing

I sold my spherical 37-140 last year and never had the anamorphic attachment but 6kg sounds excessive for the combination as the spherical lens is pretty lightweight, maybe around 2kg or so. The anamorphic combination is rarely used because it is not very high quality lens CA and sharpness wise and the contrast is not that good. More of a retro effect anamorphic than general use lens by my opinion

In the about 4k price range one can get Eclair ACL or NPR or the cp16r and have plenty of money left for lenses and cla snd mods. Gsmo prices have gone through roof nowadays but it should be less than 4k when serviced to working condition if you get one for reasonable price they really should cost. I would not bother trying to crystal mod R16's. As a larger project (over 10 cameras modified in the first batch and more immediately after that) might work to gain enough resources to do it right but beaulieus are relatively difficult to modify especially if you want to replace it with brushless motor and especially if trying to make commutation logic by yourself. Too little room to do anything with cots modules

but it is possible for example to have shorted transistor and the resistor burned because of that, etc. You will figure it out from the board connections

depends on what they are specifically used for. Normally one would replace with similar value tantalum. it is possible that the burned resistor is just a "protection resistor" meant to be burned down if the tantalums short. in that case one may not need to know the exact value, only a close enough ballpark. if you can figure out part of the schematics from the boards by inspecting them and can figure out what the power the tantalums are smoothing is used for, then can estimate what kind of resistor could work even if not knowing the exact value it originally was. If it is just a protection resistor then can be something like couple of dozen ohms or less and depends on the power draw too. Without knowing the connections and original value I would guess it could be something between 5 and 20 ohms or something like that, probably it would work with that kind of value at least if it is just a simple protection resistor. If it is a resistor voltage divider then the exact value needs to be known because you would change the output voltage if using anything else

I calculated that the 15mm Konvas baseplate is 150usd if purchased with my 4-speed Konvas motor kit. I may have campaigns every now and then but the normal price is pretty good too. Or 200usd if one wants to buy only the baseplate and nothing else. The baseplate includes a set of black 15mm rods which are about 20cm in length on the current batch. The local store sells Smallrig rods and usually possible to arrange different length rods instead if needed.

I calculated that the 15mm Konvas baseplate is 150usd if purchased with my 4-speed Konvas motor kit. I may have campaigns every now and then but the normal price is pretty good too. Or 200usd if one wants to buy only the baseplate and nothing else. The baseplate includes a set of black 15mm rods which are about 20cm in length on the current batch. The local store sells Smallrig rods and usually possible to arrange different length rods instead if needed.

I don't know the original electronics well enough to repair them but please make a video of your repair journey whatever the end result would be. Would be interesting and useful for other people

Yes tantalums usually used for power filtering on smaller currents. They are notorious for shorting and burning down or even exploding sometimes. I don't use them on my designs because the faults would destroy half of the device. And for higher current use their ripple characteristics are not very useful. People tend to hunt down and replace all tantalums on old devices just in case. They are like ticking time bombs if old. And burn down stuff if shorting

A burnt resistor is quite often caused by a shorted capacitor down the line. Resistors don't normally fail burning down, they fail opening/raising resistance. something else causes it. Caps can fail without it being visible from outside, some people just swap them all on old devices the moment buying it just to avoid another short later

Shorted capacitors are common. The bases may have tantalums and old ones notoriously suspectible blowing up

If wanting arri rosette to the original base, it might be useful to cad model a small aluminium plate which has M6 threaded hole and the smaller M2.5 or M3 holes to mount the rosette. Then holes to mount the plate to original base with screws. I was thinking adding rosettes to my ACL baseplate when getting designing it in Spring. It is indeed easier for handheld to have standard Arri rosettes available so that you can use extension pieces to get the handles to good ergonomic position. Acl generally needs a dedicated custom baseplate designed for it because of the height of the camera with base and the nasty offset of optical axis from the centerline

Edge code is mainly needed for photochemical finishing. All scanners don't even have setup to read them anymore and for pure digital finishing it is hard to imagine scenario where they could be of any use

On my camera and one of Heikki's cameras that disc was not connected to anything. It just had a locking washer on its axle to keep it in place. Maybe it has some purpose on some model of acl and they just added empty disc for others to fill the hole. The shape and placement could work for film speed selector for exposure meter but not sure because never seen it actually used

I think the biggest challenge would be the edge of the film chambers on spots which typically take damage from rough handling. And of course the doors. One option would be to cnc machine or metal 3d print the aluminium "skeleton" which has the most vulnerable edges and other easily damaged points reinforced with aluminium, and the screw holes for parts mounting. The door latches positions etc in metal. Then the rest of the structure is made on top of the skeleton with woven carbon fibre structure and 3d printed parts where applicable. The metal skeleton would not add that much weight because it is thin and hollow with only mounting thread points and reinforcements made out of metal. Everything else is composite materials. You would potentially get better dimensional stability too. And protect the carbon fibre from cracks. One should be able to 3d print titanium but surely a tad expensive. Less so than cnc machining it so could be an option if you find a place doing it for less-than-insane price

I was assuming one would try filament with added small fibre pieces to strenghten it. But if you could use proper layered fibre cloth "real traditional carbon fibre" then would surely be much better result. You could 3d print the mould and then manually make the composite using that? On some smaller or complex parts the 3d printing probably would be better and easier but the big surfaces could use more reinforcement for sure

Probably possible if using the film transport parts and pressure plate and guides from the original ACL magazine as-is and only making the outer casing new. some polished film channel guides would need to be made new to pass the film to the right side from feed. Maybe a roller or two. One would remove the film transport plate from the original ACL mag and install to the new mag. The takeup "spring belt" would need to be a tiny bit longer I think and one probably needs one more guide roller for the spring belt to guide it properly to the takeup axle which is slightly farther away and at different angle than on the original ACL mag. would carbon composite 3d printing work for the mag body? ACL has much worse viewfinder system than even the oldest LTR has. Very big difference. and sound levels, other features etc very different too. But if the new shoulder mag could be affordable enough then it could still be very good camera system for budget users and has the advantage of being affordable to CLA and modify compared to Aatons and Arris

If someone has multiple Bolexes, I can trade a crystal motor for fully working H8 Reflex which has 1:1 axle and motor mounting points. Can include lenses but I can use my own ones too, we can check the approximate value of the kit comparing it to ebay prices of similar condition gear. Would work easier this way than me needing to buy a reference testing camera from ebay in unknown condition

The main advantage of the acl is the small size of the camera body itself. The 400ft mag is about same than any other 400ft camera mag, no size or weight benefits there. Npr has c-mount with real spinning mirror with 180 degree shutter and adjustable angle too. Size much larger, weights more. Acl like the basic handheld camera system and npr is the workhorse tripod camera. Personally I think I will sell my acl when the 20speed motor is finished and keep the npr because I can use the npr handheld with my newer compact motors and can always use the aaton ltr if not needing variable shutter

Yes it is about 1/10th of the price of Aminima. But the weight difference is just ridiculous. Aminima is like a video camera, it does not feel like a film camera, so lightweight. Acl can use daylight spools nicely on feed side but takeup works much more reliably with a core. Would not use spool on takeup. Aminima will work really well with 100ft daylight spools once my newly made magazine is finished

I am working on a 15mm baseplate for the ACL btw, if you have use for one will probably have them available for order in February-March approximately. similar approach than on my Konvas rods plate: just basic features and really sturdy and having extra mounting points for rigging

Thanks! I actually have one extra 1M konvas similar than that in the images. will likely sell it in Spring with the 4-speed motor and rods plate. these are great MOS cameras when learning to load them right so that they don't jam. The newer black versions of 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, 75mm are very nice lenses and pretty affordable. I will probably use my own 1M for car rigs and such next year and occasional steadicam footage, maybe on Ronin if it fits well enough.

looks like a good kit. hopefully it works fine! the camera body is indeed relatively easy to diy service, it is simpler than the magazine I think. And not too difficult to open for basic cla. If the mechanism is stiff, check the vertical axle which drives the shutter disc as it causes tons of friction if the lubricants dried up. And rotate the mechanism manually before switching on any power the first time you get it to check that the mirror swing works as it should, the mirror linking rod is the weak part of this camera model and if it has disengaged or has other issue then you don't want to run it at all before the rod is repaired to avoid further damaging it. The original motor is good if it works. IF it for some reason DOES NOT work and it is not something really obvious like a single blown capacitor or two or broken contact etc then it may not be worth it to repair it as that can be really difficult even for a pro tech and there is no guarantee it would not blow up again the next month. if the motor does not work then then cheapest replacement is my 4-speed universal motor with ACL mounting kit.