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Scott Willis

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Everything posted by Scott Willis

  1. it's a really simple setup but I'm eager for feedback. VIMEO >> Dad Talk
  2. wow. i'm really sorry for offending you. why do you have to be so aggressive? i thought it was funny. and i do take my work seriously. just because the subject matter isn't dramatic doesn't mean people are wasting their time or that i'm embarrassing myself. perhaps you just don't have a sense of humor, lots of people don't. and it's not an hd version you're right. my fault. usually i have to downconvert stuff for youtube, but in this case it was already sd, i forgot. i guess i associate the vimeo clips with hd and mad a mistake.
  3. it's not much but it was fun to do. and it was shot using a 1-chip minidv camera. i'm curious to know how folks on this board respond to it. hd version on vimeo: http://vimeo.com/860646 standard definition on youtube:
  4. Interesting. I wasn't sure whether I was going to do the transfer at National or at Postworks. I'll probably ride over to National and talk to someone face to face about my options. The HD 10-bit sounds like an awesome choice. I just bought a new 500gb hard-drive just for this semester's work and the computers they run at my school are pretty well setup. Is dvdcpo-hd 10bit?
  5. Yeah. I'm just going for the best light transfer now. Don't really have the resources or the time to go back and do a second go at it. Thanks for the tip about the color space and grading stuff. That's pretty much the info i was going for.
  6. I'm looking into my post-production workflow stuff for my final 16mm film projects this year. I really want to transfer to an HD format of some sort, but I cant' determine whether HDCAM is better for this than DVCPRO-HD. I understand the DVCPRO-HD subsampling 4:2:2 formula, but how does that compare with HDCAM's 3:1:1? Maybe i'm even focusing on the wrong details here. My gut instinct is telling me that the dvcpro format is more suited for video based work and not necessary for telecine. But i can't seem to back that up with any solid information.
  7. my guess was that it's strobing because the light source (which was honestly just a parking lot overhead mercury vapor light) was on a 60-htz circuit. the stuff under the same lighting setup shot at 24fps looks just fine.
  8. i guess i should also mention that the shots in question were shot at night with tungsten lights.
  9. alright. shooting a student 16mm project and we had a little mishap and accidentally rolled at 34 fps instead of 24 fps for a few shots. It took months of wrestling to get the purchase order paperwork through for the processing so by the time i got the footage back i had completely forgotten about this. Transfered to DVCAM by the way. The problem being now that for 3 shots I have a terrible strobing effect. I've been playing around to try and boost the speed back up, which helps with synching the sound but the strobing is still distracting. Anyone else be able to clean something like this up in post? I'm cutting on avid media composer right now and not quite sure how to work on this. Is the problem fully built into the negative or could I get the lab to retransfer it and adjust for the fps mess up? help.
  10. this actually stems from some investigation i'm doing to buy prime lens for my still photography setup (old nikon f3 slr). anyways, in my process of comparing lens and such i read where someone said this about a 50mm f1.4 lens: "The purpose of purchasing a fast lens, is to make the image brighter for easier focusing. As a matter of purpose, you would not use any lens wide open. Most lens perform best at approx two stops down from the maximum lens opening." i thought the purpose of a good quality lens is that you COULD shot at 1.4 and still look good. i've read that most lens will deliver relatively the same image quality in the midrange (say f8) but that the quality of a glass is determined by it's performance at the extremities. i know this comes from photography (especially the focusing bit), but the issue is still the same. a good quality lens that opens up to f1.4 is capable of actually shooting at f1.4 and looking good right? in photography i've also heard mention of the 'sweet spot' of lens being around f8. but in cinematography i hear much more about controlling depth of field.
  11. question. why is it that the human eye doesn't detect the missing red under consumer fluorescents? is the internalized color correction that good? just curious.
  12. I'm a few months shy of graduating from film school out here in Boston and I'm trying to plan out my life after May. I'm not terribly inclined to stay around this city (despite the recent increase in massachusetts productions) and have always heard Vancouver mentioned as a city that hosts lots of film work. Is this really true? How much stuff is really going on and would it be a good place to try and start a career in cinematography. The other reason I'm drawn to Vancouver is that I was born there, but grew up in the states. So I've got Canadian citizenship and passport and such. So i wouldn't have to be concerned with immigration or work visa stuff. Any thoughts? Anyone work out there? Anyone have good/bad experiences with the city? Thanks.
  13. i'm currently racking my brain trying to decide between the different options for video transfer for the 16mm project i'm about to shot. i was pretty much set on doing a full out transfer to HDCAM and digitize into the avid dnx145 codex for editing. BUT. today i found out that my finances aren't as awesome as I had thought and i was told about another lab that can do a transfer to Digibeta for half the cost of the HDCAM. The size of the raw hd image is so much larger than anything i'm going to find on standard definition though. Plus the hdcam bitrate is 144 mbit/s whereas Digitbeta is only 90 mbit/s. But they are both massive compared to the 25 mbit/s minidv I've always worked with in the past for transfers. Am i worrying about a difference that won't be that noticeable? Or should I spent the extra money to get an HDCAM job thru and thru?
  14. I really like the aesthetics of flash frames, but have had a hard time trying to digitally add them in post. i know i can easily change the color cast for the entire image quite simply with any color correction tool, but the part of flash frames that i like is how only part of the frames blows out and shows distortion. is this just something i can only do in camera?
  15. i've read a lot things that make comments about using polaroid positive film to do a rough check of the exposure levels and the color balance between various lighting sources. etc etc. sounds like a great idea. but i haven't been able to find anything yet that explains the workflow/process for actually do this. anyone know where i can find information on this (either in print or online). any help would be much appreciated.
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