Anthony Caffaro

Some confusion I have on fluorescents . I'm a little lost with the flicker. If your shooting in a area with cool white fluorescents (or any non-kino type) and your locked with a crystal sync motor running at 24fps 180 shutter, will you still have flicker?

Hey I'm shooting this weekend, go to my production office to get mags for the BL. I've only done it with cores, that the film goes onto and then you take out and send to the lab. Well the little black object the core goes onto the office was missing because students usually send the core plus that to the lab. They gave me this thing (sorry I don't know the name) that you lock your film onto but they said I have to take the film off (a core doesn't fit onto this object) so I have to be extremely careful that it doesn?t unwound. The guy at checkout just told me to tell the lab that there's no core in the center of the film and I?ll be fine. I always thought you had to send 400 feet with a core. So if you don't should I just make sure it?s tightly wound and notify the lab that no core is in?

Shooting this weekend on 16 250 D on Arri BL. Its going to be cold 42F. Camera is good and I have 3 extra battery belts. I'm just worried that the film will get to brittle while in the camera. I assume if its running and I don't leave just sitting I should be fine. And just to be safe I'm probably going to put a jacket over the mag just to make it a little warmer. If anyone has an other suggestions or can just verify if the film will be ok in this temp. I'd appreciate it. Thanks

Hey all. I'm shooting this weekend on film. I know I got a good range with 7217 200t 16mm stock. Some of the scenes call for over and under exposure. At key range the highest I'm thinking of going is 1 1/2 under/over. I just want to know how much of the latitude is killed during the transfer to mini dv. Do I still get a good range when transfered? THANKS

When using a pola filter to reduce glare in a window, you only use it if the glare is prominent. Correct?

Hey thanks for the responses. I think I worded my question wrong. I understand how to deal with overly bright windows; gels, rosco blackscrim, nd filters, basic dressing up the window with curtians. My question primarily is, is how does one expose a backlit window subject? Just like outside you go under 1 - 1 1/2 to compensate for the background and put the person in front a little darker because its there shadow side. Is that the same method used when someone is backlit by light coming through a large window?

Someone standing in front of a window during the day is obviously a bit dark. Just like backlit outdoors, it be natural and help with the exposure to underexpose about a stop to a stop in a half. Almost semi silhouette.

Whats a good way to deal with double shadows? I know I can light from high up or move the action farther from a wall so the shadows fall on the floor. But in cases where you can't other then changing you lighting set up what are some ways to fix/prevent this problem. I guess flags and diffusion could work. Thanks

Whats a good way to usually underexpose key at night. I understand it depends on what the scene calls for, etc. etc. But I'm talking abotu a basic scene, one in which all the practicals are off and its night. I could motivate sodium vapor from a street lamp onr moonlight through windows and such but would a stop in a half be a safe way to make the key on the face feel like night and let the darker areas go more like 2 1/2 stops. I was also thinking the same for EXT. scenes in the woods or areas not lit by lamps. I understand when I want an extreme like a silhoutte, a blackout effect, or an extreme hot spot but its that middle ground that I just don't know what would be best. I assume when I went something dark at key or bright but not distracting a stop and a half would be good. Because 4 stops I'm losing detail, 3 would be for blackout/silhoutte extreme hotspot, 2 could work, but 1 1/2 lets me save more detail for post. If anyone has some feedback that would be great. THANKS

Hey, I'm shooting for the first time on green screen on Friday. Just doing some basic test to then play with in post with effects etc. Basically its my first time with green screen. I've done some reading on the topic. I understand the screen should be lit to about the same F-stop and be about 1/2-full stop under the key light of the actors to prevent green spill. When lighting my actors I need to make sure those lights don't hit the screen correct? What are some helpful tips? Of course have them about 10 feet away from the screen, use of barn doors, flags, etc. Though does anyone have some other useful trick? Also what about the floor? The screen doesn't fall onto the floor so its just a big green backdrop in a sense with a black floor. I assume I can just leave it as it is. THANKS