Tony Coan

Rob, This looks great, I especially like the spill behind the cop in the first frame grab. Keep up the good work man, hope to see you soon.

Her problem was that when focusing wide open by eye and then stopping down, whether she should adjust her focus mark additionally. The short answer "yes".

http://books.google.com/books?id=r4LgHiMTM...;q=&f=false this should link you straight to page 235, which explains how and why certain fast lenses are designed like this.

Yes. you can simply transfer the mark when stopping down from below a t2 (i think?) you simply switch which hash mark you are using on the lens. As a side note, it may be a better idea to measure from the film plane to the object, using a tape measure or cloth tape, rather than always focusing by eye.

Im not sure If Im understanding your question. But, If you are shooting wide open (T1.3) you would set your focus using the blue hash line, so if youre object/subject was at 6' and you were shooting at T1.3 you would set the focus ring to 6' coinciding with the blue mark. If you are shooting at a deeper stop say a T5.6 then you would use the yellow hash and set the focus ring to 6'. If he is splitting the difference between the blue mark and yellow mark on the iris then you do the same with focus. If you are focusing by eye wide open, note the focus mark, say 6' (blue line) and readjust when you stop down so 6' coincides then with the yellow line.

Just ordered. Thanks so much Hal. I owe you one. And Rob, that copy is Steve's, Ive borrowed it a few times, but this isnt a book you can peruse and really hold onto all of the information. Steve actually keeps his around as a reference. Thanks though.

You shouldn't list gear that is not your own on your website. If you want to be a cinematographer, then at least attempt to commit yourself to that, although working your way up through G&E and/or Camera is a good way to get the real world experience and contacts to make the leap.

Use less and lighter batteries, go with ab dionic 90's or something with less mass at the bottom of the sled. I know the flyer comes with a low mode bracket that grips a camera handle then has a geared cheese plate on it, you can just throw the low mode bracket on and tape spare batteries/lead fishing weights/ect to the cheese plate. This is assuming its not a low mode shot. Getting a weight plate is however the best option, maybe reach out to smaller rental houses/steadicam ops and see if you can just rent the weight plates if you cant get them made. EDIT: post this on the steadicam forum and maybe someone will be generous enough to offer them to borrow/rent.

Im willing to pay over msrp for a very worn copy, but $305 is just way out of my price range. Thanks though! Anyone else?

Unable to locate it online or anywhere else for that matter. If anybody has a copy they would be willing to part with for a reasonable price please let me know. Or if anyone has seen a copy somewhere and could recommend to me where they saw it. Thanks!

how much for the camera, shipped to the united states?

I just noticed C-Motion is introducing a software update for the use of their FIZ units for 3-D. Here is an article. http://cmotion.eu/cms/index.php?option=com...116&Itemid=

It is not a perf thing. When looking at a loaded 235 mag that is opened in front of you, the spool side is shaped like the number "9", with film moving in a clockwise direction. The take up side, is shaped like a "P" with film also moving in a clockwise direction. The circles on the letters represent the cores, and the tails represent the direction of the film. On panavision magazines they are loaded with the take up side winding in the counter clockwise direction, creating what would be called a "9 9" magazine. I realized this is much harder to explain without having two mags to show someone.

I contacted Chaim Kantor of the 600 NYC last year, and he responded saying that there isnt currently a trainee program in the 600. however maybe its different on the west coast.

Its a 9P magazine. same basic threading as a 435 magazine, just the take up side is placed further back into the design, so that it sits over your shoulder. http://www.arri.de/camera/35_mm_film/arrif...235.html#_blank go to downloads then click Arri 235 Manual PDF, for magazine loading diagrams and pictures.

I would read them. What is the 35mm feature? What camera(s) are you using?

It is rather easy and obvious. Look at the back of the camera and you will see the shutter angle adjustment knob. But to quote the professional cameramans handbook. "To Change shutter opening. 1. Pull safety locks at side of external control knob and move them aside. 2. Pull out external control latch and move indicator to desired shutter opening, close latch, make certain that pin is engaged. 3. Move each saftey lock against each side of the external control knob to prevent accidental opening or closing of the shutter." I also remember some panavision cameras have a shutter lock lever, inside the camera, towards the top above the movement. Hope this helps!

I grew up in the pine barrens, im not totally sure of the look you are going for. But i have seen desolate sandy areas throughout this area. Check out forked river mountain, which also has alot of old desolate clay quarry's in the same area. If i had more time i would try to go out and get some pictures, but the next few weeks are very busy for me.

So I am helping a friend out this weekend, SR3 and the beach. Never shot on the beach before. The film is a very short narrative. We will be using a splashbag for some parts. And I have friday to checkout. Any tips/hints/suggestions?

arriflex 435 book. http://www.filmtools.com/ar435bookbyj.html one thing to remember is that when you change the shutter angle via the rcu when ramping, when you unplug the rcu the shutter will stay at the last angle you had set. so be sure to double check that before shooting again.

panavision makes another version, called that panatape. Like other pana products im pretty sure you cannot buy it, however i feel like it seems to be used by quite a few ac's as a backup, not something to always judge your marks off of, as it can be tricked.

I am looking for a good co-op job, at the school i go to we have to do two trimesters of a co-op (internship) in order to gain real world experience. I am hoping to get in the camera dept. somewhere as an intern. When im out of school i want to work as camera assistant and work my way up to be an operator. I have a resume of pa and grip work, with some mini dv operation. I have experience in 16mm just not paid work. I go to school in philly but nyc and la are both options. Does anyone have any advice about where to look, who to contact, or anything that i might find useful. Any help is appreciated.