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Chris Millar

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  1. Chris Millar
    yeh, ok I'll bite - tell me everything B) I'd love an optical printer but in the meantime have bought this: http://www.cinematography.com/forum2004/in...showtopic=34544 Aside from it intended use are there any modifications you know of that could be interesting ?
  2. Chris Millar
    Sold does anyone have manuals for this or info re. the workflow around it, what periphery equipment would be of immediate use etc... (I have a 35mm tape splicer already) I'm planning on making some scratch film with wasted stock and that sort of carry on ;) thanks everyone so far with the replies p.s. it was found in a junk/recycling co-op in Sydney Australia
  3. Chris Millar
    So $120 is a good price for it (even out of interests sake) - says on it 'working' - ha ha ;)
  4. Chris Millar
    Hello, found this the other day and would like some info as to what exactly it is, seems to be at least a viewer for 35mm film (scope even) - but what exactly was its full purpose and function ? along with optical there is mention of 'magnetic' on the faders, which makes me think 16mm or 70mm but it appears to be 35mm, unless it has 14" tape sync something or other ? Maybe there are some users here who may have operated one of these in the days ? thanks, chris
  5. Chris Millar
    The scene was a bit distant and quick huh - but the dialog is what made it work You wanna piece of me! "NO, I WANT TWO" (seen it twice)
  6. Chris Millar
    The EX1 is universal in that it can shoot both PAL and NTSC rates (not at SD resolution however, unless you crop and/or down-res in post).
  7. Chris Millar
    Hey - what's up with doom.org ? I get a full stop <html> <h1>.</h1> </html> you mean .com ? or is there some sort of restriction to the uninitiated ?
  8. Chris Millar
    I have posted similar questions in more relevant forums (well, one at least). The reason I posted here regardless is that cinematography and to a lesser extent still photography is the world I plan to apply what I learn. One relevant application I see directly is video codecs/digital cinema, post effects and also motion control etc.. Glen, looks like you're much further down a path I may wander across or follow directly at some stage - doom.org - I'll have a look
  9. Chris Millar
    Theatre - no ... they aren't optically nice enough - although 'good enough for rock and roll' you might say. Glass wont fit in ... You need Wratten Gel filters which you cut to fit into the filter holder - as they are round they end up using a lot more filter for the useful area - quite wasteful - Bad Bolex EL ! Do you actually have a filter holder ? If you dont you'll need to ascertain if you need the slip in type (I think for Mk 2 and 3 EL's) or the course thread type (most, if not all Mk 1's) - the slip in ones are easy to find on eBay, usually in sets of four or so - the screw in ones seem rarer and usually come with the camera as a part of the kit... I'm not sure but I think the screw in type will fit into the later models, but the drop in type will not retro fit into the Mk1's (annoying).
  10. Chris Millar
    I would like to learn more about the math involved in both 3D and 2D graphics and how it is made into logic that PC's can handle. First concentrating on the 2D - image analysis and manipulating for instance, is this all matrices/linear algebra ? Basically I'd like to be able to have a conceptual grasp on how image/moving image data is represented mathematically and then how to manipulate it. 3D is also a fascination, specifically the representation/sampling/modeling of real life in computers - spatial/temporal info and physics/kinematics for instance - for use in robotics/moco and the fusion between this and CGI - is this all calculus, and coordinate geometry ? What topics am I really looking into ? What have I missed out ? I'm pretty good self learning outside of a classroom, any recommended books ? thanks, Chris
  11. Chris Millar
    Hello, is there a 16mm camera (super or regular) that can: A. shoot ~480fps B. be under 5kg C. be 'compact' (which probably goes hand in hand with B) D. powered by DC (batts) These specifications probably mean 2R 50' or 100' loads which is fine as long as the speed up and down sequence is fast - if its 50' loads then ~250fps will have to suffice and we'll do the rest of the slomo in post... I know 'compact' for instance is a bit non-specific but basically the smaller the better Anything fit the bill, anything close ? thanks Chris
  12. Chris Millar
    Take the standard Rex5 price, add the cost of the conversion and that's your number
  13. Chris Millar
    Wont work ;) - just too small - if you just taped it on for instance it will vignette on a 10mm Switar
  14. Chris Millar
    Hello, say I have a used Sony EX1 with 50 hours give or take on its clock (half of that shooting, the other half idle) - used for documentary shooting in mostly indoor conditions so it is basically mint aside from some scratches on its base, purely cosmetic and put there through no great impact. What could I expect to sell it for as a % of todays new price ? Chris
  15. Chris Millar
    found them: interlaced progressive
  16. Chris Millar
    I am shooting a doco on the Sony EX1 Similar to this: http://www.sonybiz.net/biz/view/ShowConten...rveContext=true The likely outcome is that it will shown at a festival with some sort of HD digital projection or at least a digibeta or similar, small chance of a film out and most probable screening in PAL television and DVD. I tend towards progressive in the conceptual sense. The project I linked above chose to shoot 25p, I'm guessing because they are sure of the film-out (however they choose 25 instead of 24, not sure about this). But after finding and watching comparative clips of the same subject in both EX1 25p and 50i I prefer the interlaced version (I cant find them on the net anymore) - is the fact I am watching on an LCD and not a film projection or proper interlaced monitor a problem ?? What are the considerations of filming either progressive or interlaced with these outputs in mind ? I dont want to cause headaches or lose quality due to format translation in post. As well as shooting this I will be editing it. Lots to learn Chris
  17. Chris Millar
    Sharp is the word. >> For the money you cant go better than the Switar Preset Primes (little sticky knob things out the side) - start with the 26mm and 75mm, 10mm is great also but vignettes slightly in super16 - then there is the rarer 50mm preset ... Dont get confused with all the preset Switars made for 8mm though, they certainly wont cover. They are good glass, a step up (or two) quality wise compared to the cameras they are specifically designed for. Although I haven't been able to make direct comparisons this I've heard from other users >> think Super Speed Mk1 if you will. They are a bit of a secret to us Bolex hoarders (oops! to keep prices down I should keep my mouth shut then huh)
  18. Chris Millar
    I've played with both in store enough not to dislike either for whatever reason but was wondering if there was any factors I hadn't considered due to not having it out in the real world ... and yes I'm pulling the ram from my iMac (which I bought separately and installed)
  19. Chris Millar
    Hello, I will be shooting a fly on the wall doco over the next few month at least where I will be active daily some more so that others. Some days I expect to capture only 10minutes footage others I know I will capturing hours worth (at a guess a possible 6hours) - there will be lots of low light involved and unknown conditions in an environment of constant travel (touring with bands as lone operator). I want an HD system as it will be used further down the track on other projects and am keen to invest in something new so as to keep the investment as up to date as possible (I cant wait say for the new Panasonics). Looking at both the Sony EX1 and just released Z7U I have the following comparisons: EX1 1/2" sensor Z7U 1/3" sensor - not much in it, prefer the EX1 though ... EX1 fixed lens Z7U lens mount - would use the supplied Z7U lens for the project anyway EX1 1lux Z7U 1.5 lux low light - is this difference really that significant ? EX1 multi FPS format independent with over and undercranking (pretty neat huh) - Z7U/E PAL/NTSC boring considering PAL version usually costs more and is not listed at US vendors at the mo' - need it in three weeks EX1 expensive SxS cards - Z7U cheap CF cards or miniDV tapes EX1 75minutes with supplied 8gig and bought 16gig SxS card - Z7U um, 60mins I think in HDV with the miniDV tapes EX1 requires a laptop and harddisk to travel also - Z7U with a bunch of miniDV tapes is all I'd need EX1 solid state robustness Z7U tape transport ready to up and die at any time (sound is taken care of) Most specs except the lens mount would indicate the EX1 is the winner but with the extra cost of the SxS cards and requirement of a laptop and harddisk for dumping the footage every 75minutes would it be the wrong choice for a run and gun-ish doco ? Different horses for different courses for sure ... Upcoming projects (more time, less travel) would indicate the EX1 is the winner, but I want to be as sure as I can be that it wont cause issues and therefore lost footage for this current project. I'm a film user usually, HD is new to me - feel free to tell me what/who/where/how and why in whatever terms you please Chris
  20. Chris Millar
    Hello, I am buying a MBP 15" version with 3gig RAM and the 7200rpm HD soon I have used matte screens up till now with no complaints but have noticed the trend towards glossy screens for supposedly deeper blacks at the expense of some occasional glare (direct reflections from the sun could blind you at the extreme :rolleyes: ). A search of the net finds many opinions from mostly fans and haters - nothing much between ... So, is it really an issue which would be best for motion picture editing ? (FCP on the road with no access to a calibrated monitor) Or do I just go with the personal preference, which for fear of getting something I dont like I'll just stick with what has always worked (matte) any ideas ? Chris
  21. Chris Millar
    If you're actually seeing crud in focus then the dust is on the main prism, or possibly the periscope prism (slightly out of focus = bottom face, slightly more out of focus = top face and so on) - I suppose by racking the diopter you can focus on different areas of the finder assembly and figure out where it is coming from - have fun but really once it is correctly focused on the ground glass further cleaning of the optics in the finder assembly should only result in a increase in contrast if there was any crud in there in the first place - I reckon its sweet to use compressed air up there and personally use it around the turret periscope optics also, but can respect others wish not to do so ... You dont mention what model your Bolex is - the mag mount ones need long long drivers to get through a little access hole for the back left screw - annoying, as jewelers drivers usually wont reach, once I've removed mine (borrowed a long driver) I snapped off the thread and simply glued the top back on as a light trap, three fasteners are all that is necessary ... If its an EL watch out for the LED assembly in the finder ... Easy to bend/snap, harder to fix.
  22. Chris Millar
    I am leaning towards the use of tape as due to the nature of the trip the less gear the better - the tapes could be mailed back to base and not worried about - If I were to shoot P2 and download to a hard-disk and it were to be stolen or damaged then I would loose weeks worth and the trip would be a failure (or bodged together in post to make it look like it wasn't lost, something I'd rather not get into) ... So some (all?) cams can record straight to hard-disk - or download direct to a hard-disk ? (skip the laptop) that could be an option ... I'd could have a few smaller of harddisks floating about, one on me and two in the mail - one on its way to base and the other on its way back - sort of hedging my bets that way ? Maybe I could dump and store the data at a few post houses on the way ? Is this system silly ? Either that or its HDV (or SD) ... and yes I'm in 25fps/PAL world ... At this stage I will be the editor (scary huh, asking these kinds of questions!) I'm more of a director when it comes to post and a film nut when it comes to front end, though in the case of this query I need to be an actual editor editor and an HD nut front end, hence your help is appreciated Do any of these cameras come with intervalometer functions ? I was going to shoot the road trip segments in 16mm intervalometer from outside the car but some occasional internal time-lapse stuff could be good also ...
  23. Chris Millar
    Hello all, long time lurker, first poster ... Coming from a film world where I have mostly shot 16mm on my own projects and not paying much attention to the video cameras I have been given to shoot with on other jobs (not having much to do with post) I need some advice as to where to begin for a project I have coming up ... I will be following a group of individuals traveling around USA making a kind of road trip/vignette/doco/diary style presentation - There will be non-soundsync parts shot in 16mm but the bulk of it will be in some kind of video, as it can shoot sync sound as a matter of course (on board mic will do fine) and they also have the ability to shoot long takes and not be restricted to 100' or heavy 400' loads. I would pick up something like a DVX-100 which I have used on occasion and the miniDV tapes are no mystery to me, in terms of usage and getting them on board an editing system. I thought however I should investigate the possibility of HD but dont know where to begin. I need something comparable with a miniDV SD camera in terms of the ability to shoot on tape, so when the tape runs out I put a new tape in etc... lots of tapes at the end - P2 cards ... they require to be downloaded to a harddisk when full correct ? so I'd have two 16Gb cards and download (upload?) one whilst the other is shooting ? I'd need a laptop and large hard disk right ? I'll be on the road for a month or so (solo) shooting a tapes worth potentially everyday and want to keep weight and gear to a minimum. What kind of system/set up would everyone recommend ? 25fps TV will be the final output but it would be nice to keep the front end as high-res as possible for future use if it doesn't present to many logistical issues in the first case I hope the question isn't broad in scope (pretty good for a first post ?!?) its just I need to begin research somehow. thanks, Chris
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