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Michael Kubaszak

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Posts posted by Michael Kubaszak

  1. The tail of each roll was very jagged and obviously I couldn't do anything about it as it is at the end of the roll, so it tore when we rolled out sometimes and left debris behind. The first time this happened I didn't see any chips so I didn't blow it out resulting in the film not being able to sit properly and jamming hardcore. We rolled out mid-shot everytime but I made it known when we were getting close to end of a roll.

     

    I was told the lab discards something like the last 8'. I marked critical ends on the camera reports.

     

    thanks for the replies.

  2. When I first started 1st'ing, I was told that I should really avoid rolling out, as you can't check the gate. I found out on my last job(435), in which the 400' rolls were broken down from larger rolls and that the tails and heads of each roll weren't trimmed neatly, more jagged. I found that when you roll out with this that it tears sprockets out and leaves them stuck in the movement. Thus possibly(and did) jamming badly. We still rolled out every time. I've had another DP not care about rolling out and wanting to get every frame possible out of the roll. How bad is it for the film and the camera?

  3. OK, So I am shooting/directing a short in May. I purchased 3 rolls of 7212 last July and have been in the freezer since. Never got around to shooting them and a script came up that I wanted to do and use those rolls. Now after 1st'ing and loading a 35 job I want to shoot 35 as processing is the same and can get either camera(s16 or s35) for free. I want to sell my 3 rolls to a business that does this and and then buy 2 1000' re-canned rolls. Also, 7212 isn't the preferred stock I want to shoot this picture on, as the setting is a bright sunny day outdoors and then bright sunny day indoors. 5205 and 5217 would be ideal.

     

    I have heard alot of horror stories and called a few of these places and first inquired about them purchasing my factory sealed stock and then called back later to inquire about their 35 stock. One company asked for the batch number on them and then quoted me a price and seemed pretty stringent on the quality of product he was accepting. All businesses said each re-can was tested and that they give it the same guarantee kodak gives it.

     

    A few of the reasons I want to shoot 35 is I never have and want to, and that this short only needs 20 minutes of film to shoot it and it seems reasonable and cost effective to shoot 35 if I sell my old stock at a quoted $80 per roll, and then buy two 1000' re-cans at .17 cents per foot or $170, only costing me an additional $100 to shoot super 35.

     

    Any advice or recommendations?

  4. I live in Milwaukee and have also experienced problems due to the cold. Not being able to power up when too cold, the EVF going into predator vision, therefore rendering aperture and focus judgements useless. Also, experienced quite a bit of what the DP on the last movie called "Bad Boot(s)", where the camera just doesn't boot correctly.

  5. I was always told to never use canned air on the front or rear element of any lens, by a long-time cameraman and current rental house owner.

    Filmtools sells a great blower(better than a hurricane), some AC's I have worked with or for have used those inky dinky bulbs and they suck, get a quality blower!

  6. I have worked on two red jobs. I have had a lot of experience with the camera at a rental house. I live in Milwaukee and the drive would be easy. E-mail me for more information if needed.

     

    Michael Kubaszak

    Camera Assistant

    michael.kubaszak@gmail.com

  7. I was on a shoot Wednesday in which the RED ONE was used entirely outdoors for a commercial. On some shots the image coming into the LCD and monitor looked really blue with ND in the front of the lens. The basic reason (as was explained to me) for this is that the Mysterium chip sees visible light and infrared light the same so when you throw ND on the visible light is vastly diminished and the infrared light pours into the lens. To compensate you need a 486 filter to compensate/block infrared. There are no manufacturers for cine-style 486 filters.

     

    This link gives some examples and has more explanation.

     

    ttp://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9412&referrerid=1799

     

     

    Michael

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