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Wade Rupp

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About Wade Rupp

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    Director
  1. Hello All: I will be using a Bolex P1 regular 8mm camera and my Sekonic meter as backup. I plan to operate the camera at 18 fps with the shutter all the way open. The exposure time is 1/43 sec, or 150° shutter angle. When using the external meter should I also factor in light loss occurring in the viewfinder process? Does anyone know how much that light loss is? I have no filters for the lens, and I will be using ASA 100 Plus X.
  2. Hello All: I will be using a Bolex P1 regular 8mm camera and my Sekonic meter as backup. I plan to operate the camera at 18 fps with the shutter all the way open. The exposure time is 1/43 sec, or 150° shutter angle. When using the external meter should I also factor in light loss occurring in the viewfinder process? Does anyone know how much that light loss is? I have no filters for the lens, and I will be using ASA 100 Plus X.
  3. Hello All: I will be using a Bolex P1 regular 8mm camera and my Sekonic meter as backup. I plan to operate the camera at 18 fps with the shutter all the way open. The exposure time is 1/43 sec, or 150° shutter angle. When using the external meter should I also factor in light loss occurring in the viewfinder process? Does anyone know how much that light loss is? I have no filters for the lens, and I will be using ASA 100 Plus X.
  4. I wacked my old Spectra Professional light meter really hard today--3/4 the way through shooting something, and it's busted. Since this is rather cumbersome to use, a bit delicate, and the direct scale, without using the manual slide calculator on the back only goes up to f16, I think I'll get this fixed and just use it for backup. Otherwise it is very versatile, can easily compute lighting ratios (key to fill etc.), as well as incident, but I don't like using that manual calculator for out of the ordinary type situations 'cause you have to remember the intermediate values, and I end up staring at it wondering if I'm doing it correctly. What light meter(s) do you like and use? Do you use a couple of different ones at each shoot? Are some easier to use than others? Thanks for your help.
  5. Excellent! With the shutter open, the compensated shutter speed is 1/80 second. The Spectra manual says the No. 64 slide is what I'd use at that shutter speed for an ASA film of 100. I'll give it a try. Wade Rupp
  6. I'm using a Bolex on Sunday shooting with Ektachrome 100D. I have a Spectra Professional light meter. My question is regarding compensating for the slight light loss from the mirror into the viewfinder. Instead of using the No. 100 slide for the 100D film, I seem to recall that I can use the No.64 slide (as if I was using ASA 64 film) in the light meter and I should have a proper exposure reading. Does that sound correct? Also, I was searching for a basic tutorial/instruction online and here for the Bolex, but haven't found any. Does anyone know of any online? Wade Rupp
  7. Wade Rupp

    Nikon R10 UWL?

    Has any body here successfully used an ultra-wide adapter on the Nikkor 7-70mm zoom, or maybe used a rod support to hold a bigger adapter in front of the lens? Seems that all I've heard is that no ultra-wide lens works on the Nikon R10. Wade Rupp
  8. If you think you want the camera serviced you might want to call Bernie O'Dougherty (www.super16inc.com) as I'm told he will work on these cameras too. He's in the New York state, USA, area. Wade Rupp
  9. If your Nikon R8 has the same controls as my model R10 then as you point the camera at a scene there is a knob on the left side of the camera that says "EE-Lock" on it. Pulling that knob out until it stops will allow you to manually set the lens aperature. If the full range of f-stops is not available because it is sticking then that would indicate a problem which requires service. It should freely move through all f-stops without any restriction. If you are trying to use the automatic over (+2) and under (-1) exposure control, which is on the right side of the camera, sometimes that inner ring gets real sticky on these old cameras. You actually have to get a tool, maybe a knife, or screwdriver and put it into one of the grooves and push to free it. Usually after doing so it will be easier to turn next time.
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