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Andries Molenaar

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Posts posted by Andries Molenaar

  1. Exactly what is the advice?

    Andreas is best adviced to test the battery using a volt meter and take it from there.

    As OP is in Switzerland he is best adviced to seek help from a die-hard filmer in der Schweiz. Forum member Simon Wyss is in the der Schweiz too and does repairs on classic cameras. Maybe he can help to diagnose what is wrong. Without spending a fortune on shipping and labour far away ?

     

  2. That is a thorough (and by Internet standards very long) test and analysis. 

    This way it costs little and the 'film' is exactly the same for both lenses.

    You did use a tripod or a fixed mounting?

    The practical filming setting would be to film people in portrait, torso or full and possibly some scenery around that. That would be 1, 3,5 meters and infinity.

    The usable field is a bit disappointing. Likely this very much dictated by the constraint of the small projection opening.

  3. 2 hours ago, Jeremy Saint-Peyre said:

    Something like those. They are intended for Kodak cartridges used as reloadable.

    Possibly the Kaccema has the same dimension. You could also attempt to find a tube of the same diameters. Might even be carton. The main point is to give an easy start for spooling up and to keep the film from stringing itself on the hub ?

  4. There is indeed an adapter kit from Nizo which brings a cable to connect the battery box outside or in the swung back grip. You need boxes which have pointy contact with a rim near their base for that.

    Then there is a replacement plate to swap with the standard to receive the tripod screw and to fix the camera in a more stable position to your tripod head ?

  5. The Elmo Trifilmatic 300 DS-8 100ft has square hub-pins and Foma supplies DS-8 100 ft on spools with square holes.

    The Elmo 8-TL has round pins with a knob in its 100ft magazine. The Elmo 100ft spool has square holes.

     

  6. Considering how most film Super-8, it has no importance. It is often ISO 100+, aperture down to f11. Furthermore, it is often sloppy focusing and no tripods.

    The rear retro focus lenses on the most used zooms stay in place (isn't it the thing used for 0.01mm collimation focusing) so there is no difference when it is on 6 or 66 focal length. Only with macro, the rear lens gets pulled in.

    So if the camera runs fine just shoot a few frames from a tripod as described and see how these come out. 

    Should you want reliable equipment for assignments you are better to get two working sets of equipment. That also covers theft, accidents or forgetfulness ? Unless all the equipment gets involved here.

    BTW it would be interesting to see if Beaulieu had the C-mount flange machined down on this very last production ZM4s as these were equipped with in-lens filters in their fitted Schneiders

  7. 2 hours ago, Mark Dunn said:

    It's the first result on Google, so, yes. He put the information there.

    None of the results googles lists were originally posted by Anderson himself. It is most from over-eager forummembers and data harvesters who list business to business informatie. As I recall his own website merely functions as a footholder without any info. 

  8. 13 hours ago, Jeremy Saint-Peyre said:

    Hello folks,

    According to Super8Wiki, Lomo Reloadable Cartridge acts as 64T/40D -> http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Super_8_Cartridge_Notch_Ruler (down of the page).

    We would like to turn them into ASA 100, but we don't know wich notch ruler we should trust :
    - The one from Super8Wiki : super8wiki.com/images/6/6f/Cartridgenotchruler.pdf
    - Or that one who says the Super8Wiki notch ruler is not that good : http://www.peaceman.de/schmalfilm/super8/S8_Notch_Tools_v1.0.pdf
    Bye,

    Jeremy


     

    There is plenty of play in the exposure. That must be because real consumer life is crude  on this kind of technique ?

    The notchrulers aren't all that different. Best to go with the Peaceman ruler as that is the newest and drawn up by an expert.

     

  9. 17 hours ago, Will Montgomery said:

    If the internal filter is removed it is a good idea to collimate the lens. Actually, it is always a good idea to have that done. Björn Andersson in Sweden can help you with that.

    Filmko

    Is it really good practice

    to post other people's real life data which they themselves never posted before?

  10. On 4/6/2019 at 8:21 PM, Julien Fallecker said:

    Hello do you if collimation is obligatory or a extern filter could be use ?

    Thanx

    5

    Don't bother with collimation after taking out the internal filter. It is just theory and witchcraft.

    Many filmers  film  handheld and with ASA 100 film have apertures near f11. So what would be the point?

    Just expose a bit of film at wide open aperture (use ND filter) while filming from a tripod. Find a subject at infinity and some other closer by and measure the distance which you set on the lens-scale. It that comes out fine you are fine.

    BTW the very late models of 4008ZM4 which came without internal filter weren't adjusted with their C-mount machined off for a hair's thickness either

  11. I would like to offer an alternative. The Fujica ZC1000. It is considered by some to be the best 8mm camera ever made, but it shoots Super8mm film in a different cartridge called Single8mm. It has transport speeds from 9-72fps, a variable shutter, a fantastic C-mount zoom lens and it's one of the the few cameras that can film in reverse for the the entire cartridge(Super 8 carts can't do that for more than 10 feet. Color film, Fuji and soon; Ektchrome, and Kodak Tri-X; are available from Retro8mm(Retro enterprises) in Japan. Film has to be processed by them because of the cartridge.(These films can be shown in any Super8mm projector)The price of these cameras has really come down in price due to better availability of film stocks. You can get one on eBay; in decent shape; for $250-$300 now. This format is very popular in Europe.

    Indeed a nice camera. I don't follow the reasoning that more film would drive the price down :)

    I don't understand why they the processing of E-6 or D-94 would need to go through retro8 too. They need the cartrdiges back?

  12. I’ll look into the R10. Whats the differences between the R10 models?

    All R10s are equal :) Except for the zoom gears which are metal on the 78xxx series and nylon on 79xxx.

    R8 are the smaller camera but do have a smaller lens and want 625 batteries :(

     

    A problem might be that R10 are rather heavy and due to age you must double check on all features working properly. Sometimes they get noisy gears or possibly a stuck exposure system.

  13. The S560 is nice and compact. The only gain would be to have a longer lens on the 800-series.

    interchangeable lenses.

     

    What extra speed options do you want? Compared to the S560?

     

    Only Beaulieu 4008 have truly variable speed. And interchangeable lenses. What other lenses could you possibly want? A 0.95 Schneider?

    Using C-mount adapters you could fit many Nikon or other brands. That works best for telephoto. Undercutting 10mm fixed focal length is hardly possible.

    There are special ciné lenses.

  14. The opening is troublesome because most/all screws are behind rubbers or leatherette. You need to know where they are and to get access without wrecking the covers. It is impossible to get replacements as they would use in the days these cameras were new or current :) I have no experience opening these types of Canons.

  15. Better no quick charging with batteries in the camera. It will fry a big resistor inside the camera.

    Modern chargers at $10 already have adaptive circuits and put the turbo on when they sense the opportunity.

     

    Who needs exposing capability for 30 cartridges when films cost $50 per piece :)

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