Andries Molenaar
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Posts posted by Andries Molenaar
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So far, the movexoom 6 has issues... Light meter seems to never move from f-stop 4, slomo 54 fps seems not to be working and lens does not seem to focus all the way to infinity. Needless to say, I'm still looking...
The movexoom 6??? It is only your camera which acts like that and not a general feature of these cameras
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Not that many people work on the inside of cameras. I think.
More likely corroded pads on circuit board or the finger of the selector.
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It has an automatic exposure system. It adjusts the aperture according to measured light and the ISO value of the cartridge. It draws power from the main battery set. Function is easily checked by pressing the trigger half way and pointing the lens in the direction of a bright light or dark field. The needle visible in the top of the viewfinder should indicate what aperture it sets. This indicator only shows when there is enough light over the camera to light up the indicator background :) It is an old fashioned camera.
The exposure system can be directed to over or under expose using the knob on the right side.
Setting or locking aperture can be done by pulling out the EE knob on the left and rotate that. Aperture setting is visible in the viewfinder.
Keep the REW/FOR knob on For(ward) while testing. The camera will stop after 100 frames in REW, appearing broken while it is not.
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I have one 1014XLs which I found at a photo-faire. Euro 20 but with 6 batteries stuck in in the grip. With some clever thinking (+body weight) and tool usage I managed to pull these out. Camera is running fine now. The grip hinge is a bit less smooth as on an original.
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How did it end up with your nephew rather with you, the son?
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I love Nikon but better than this lens on the black Jubilee edition? Angenieux f1.2 6-80?
I'll give it a try some sunny day, on rare document film in super-8. I have both cameras and a tripod. :)
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Never heard of troubles with 1014XLs as you describe. These are fine machines with features the new Kodak will never have. Apart from actually being there to use at all :)
Nikon R10 and R8 were the first with built-in dissolve/fade over 100 frames max.
These can be found in good condition and they have by far the best lens in Super-8 world (despite people claiming otherwise), also they are the single model in super-8 which have a specially designed film gate which forces the film in the focal plane :)
Sometimes they can be a bit noisy. The exposure system can go being stuck where the actuator can no longer move the aperture blades from their base position. Which is troublesome to have repaired :(.
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Look for non running 814 or 1014XL-Ss on eBay. It will take a while but they do pop up from time to time. If all else fails buy an external battery pack. They work with no batteries in the handle.
The needed plug is obscure and I would be glad to learn what type it is.
The grip of the 814 and 1014xl-s is the same and the covers are the same.
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Hello,
Thank you for your interest. I wrote a PM
Please check.
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Frozen should still be good. People fight over these :)
Processing available through www.super8.nl
Or DIY
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Ektachrome 160 Type G is process EM-26 and is not compatible with process E-6.
If memory serves, it'll come out clear if run through E-6.
1, Film Rescue International is your best bet - they're real experts.
2, Avoid Rocky Mountain Film Lab ..... they have a terrible reputation ( just google it ! )
John S :rolleyes:
EM-26 film (the late version Ektachromes 160 in super-8) is best suitable for E-6 , it produces usually very nice images.
The only trouble is getting the black backing off.
When it comes out transparent something else went wrong.
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Glenn Brady was kind enough to send me a photo of this rare beast the Schneider 6-180mm Variogon for the Beaulieu 6/7/9008 series of cameras. I've included part of Glenn's email below about contacting Schneider about his particular lens.
In March 2017 I contacted Schneider in Germany to learn more about the lens and got the following response: "According to the serial number your lens was produced in 1976. Unfortunately, we have no further information." Michael Lehnert, who seems knowledgeable about all things Super 8 generally, wrote of this lens in 2013, ". . . there were only a few prototypes made for the Photokina fair that dubiously found their way into private hands".
BTW
Beautiful camera. Use it regularly to keep it running smooth. It requires a bit of a budget these days :)
Curious that some/few have correctly CINÉ (with accent aigu) on their side but most are like this one with CINE (without :( )
Possibly the opening in the mask was too small and got clogged?
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This is a fleamarket find of $20
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Here's a good test roll shot by Patrick Mueller. Shot in a bunch of different cameras including Nizo 801, Minolta XL401, and the Logmar.
Some Euro 100 spent on animals in a meadow...
Curious color differences. Even more curious that the most affordable camera shoots the best and most stable images. The most expensive one, the famed Logmar, shows sideway unstableness. Like driving a car while texting :) Or must we assume this is from scanning?
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Funny, as I just made the same request with a product manager in the motion picture division so they don't seem to talk to each other.
I can't get over how much of an "ordeal" it would be to spool off say 10k feet before they slit the film. What kind of ordeal are we talking? Two hours worth of work? Then typing a new catalog number into a database? The bureaucracy with this company will kill it yet.
It got killed by retired employees who want their pensions (logically but cynical).
Of course, this yanking a few cans of DSD-8 intermediate product calling it an ordeal shows other problems. Although disappearance must be battled too :)
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Wittner even sold off their backup machines. I.e. they had multiple.
It seems to be too much trouble for them.
Kodak has pancakes of 1000ft DS8 which are then split and machined into S8 cartridges.
It would be easy as pie to grab a few of these rolls and spool them onto 100ft reels :)
But likely also to them, it is too much trouble and possibly implies that they would sell less S8 cartridges.
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if i may give my 5ç to this post?
maybe you could beat your frustration with starting your own development? i fully agree...N8 and S8 development nowaydays are ridiculous.
so what i did, i purchased a LOMO UDP-1 Tank on ebay. and chemicals i have from http://www.fotoimpex.com/
you need a developer, a stopper, a fixer and a wetting agent. the chemistry is ridicolous cheap. and it makes some real fun. if you need help, just pm me.
randy
PS: i also just ordered some ECN2 chemistry for kodak vision 3 film!!
And what is the minimum quantity of ECN-2?
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Try Björn Andersson in Sweden, he is the top most technician and repair man for all things Beaulieu (Filmkonsult KB, in Hässelby, near Stockholm)!
Having used his services, I can wholeheartedly recommend him. He has performed wonders on my 4008 ZMII and R16 cameras.
Bengt Fredén, Stockholm
It is about a copy a repair manual. Niche market repair people are certainly not giving away copies of repair manuals.
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Nine years have gone by. Sure the camera is a booksupport now.
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Thanks for the update, don't hold your breath while waiting for E100D or what they are working on.
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2000 pixels wide from a mere 5.6mm of film frames.
Kodachrome 35mm slides were long imagined as being scannable to max 2000x3000 RGB pixels (not camera pixels)
Now it is supposed to be 8000x12000?
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Depending on what you're after you might find it interesting to make your own control unit for the Leicina, allowing (for example) laptop control of the camera.
This can be done using an Arduino as an intermediary between camera and laptop. Or one might use a Raspberry Pi.
In any case, for control of exposure time, terminals 1 and 8, in the following diagram, do the trick. You connect these terminals to open the shutter, and then disconnect them to close the shutter. You can test this out using ad hoc probes plugged into terminals 1 and 8 on the camera port. Having satisfied yourself this works, you can then wire these terminals to a relay (be it mechanical or solid state), and switch the relay with a micro-controller (such as the Arduino). The Arduino is very easy to program and can provide an accurately timed delay between connection and disconnection of the terminals.
This has just become available: http://cineassist.filmcurl.com/
Although it hasn't been programmed to use the Leicina T option properly :(
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It seems there is no R-8 section. Was there ever?
So I just I bring it here to your attention:
for sale- Ektachrome 7240 30 meter / 100 feet perforated for R-8 N-8
http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=77296
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Ektachrome 7240 30 meter / 100 feet perforated for R-8 N-8
For the die-hard R-8/N-8 filmer and projection-lover
I have had a stack of Ektachrome 7240 perforated for R-8 N-8
Obtained from a collection of materials from a careful filmer
who kept it in cooled storage until just a few months ago.
Euro 90 per roll of 30 meter/ 100 feet
(check on Wittner (=45) or Kahl (=30) for their 7.5 meter non-Kodak-color material :) )
Material is on 100ft daylight spools. Will fit a number of cameras
but most will require respooling onto small spools.
I am expecting a load of small spools, just not here yet.
Processing is in VNF-1 found at several labs.
But also popular with DIY processing people :)
Seller based in Netherlands. Within EU happy shipping and duty free :)
Elsewhere
Also available:
- 7240 in super-8 cartridge
- Kodak Surveillance color in super-8
- Kodak 4-X in super-8
- Kodak MF-4 in super-8
- Plus-X in super-8
Beaulieu 4008 zmii charger
in Super-8
Posted
Better not to experiment with charging batteries with unknown qualities inside the camera. Sometimes batteries inflate like a balloon when (over)charging and then it may crack the circuit board of your camera. When charging in-camera always use a correct charger. Even when it goes alright when using a modern adaptive charger the current may get too high and it will roast a resistor inside :(
When charging do this outside camera either using the Beaulieu charger container with a Beaulieu charger as this has the same circuitry or use a modern charger but connect it to centre-plus and the hull-minus of the battery housing.