James Millward

Hi guys, I know someone who has some old (almost 30 years old!) VFX footage in 65mm He has three reels, and would like to transfer them to Bluray/dvd for viewing. Is there anyone that could do this? or recomend a company? He is in Texas I believe. Thanks guys James

Thanks for the reply John At that price, I may as well keep hold of it and shoot something in the summer. Thanks again James

Hi guys, im deciding whether its worth seelling or not? I bought it new two years ago with the inetention of shooting super 8, but i havent shot anything so far! So its unused, and comes with all the stuff (filters, box etc) All runs smoothly at different speeds and appature works fine with batts or on manual. If its not worth alot, ill keep it for when I do decide to try it out. What price do you think, im based in the UK?? thanks James

I have a Eumig Mark 610D which was my fathers from new. Its working well, but can only run upto 18fps. I want to shoot some 24fps stuff, and am wondering if you guys can reccomend solid projectors to look for (capable of 24fps)?? From what I understand, my 610D is a well respected projector. So should I get another Eumig? If so, what make to look for?? Thanks guys James

Many thanks for the replys. I am really interested in the technology that was used in the early days of CGI. What processing power created the shots we see in say the Abyss, T2? Were these Workstations along the lines of SGI or onyx? What were the specs of these machines? Is CGI today done on specialist workstations (im talking ILM Level), or are they just very high spec PC's Really interested i this guys James

I have wondered this for a while now. Presumably, the each cell of film has to be scanned like I would do with a photograph? If so, what res do they scan at? 2K if so, does that mean that when watching a film in the theatre, I am only seeing 2k? (not that not matters as such, jusy curious). Now, when the shot is complete, how is it transfered back to film? Is it printed, like you or I would print the photgraph in the earlier example? If so, what kind of machines do this? again 2K? Im also interested in how this was done in the early days of CGI (say T2 1991 ish). What res were they able to capure and print at in those days? Thanks guys James

I havent shot a roll yet, but there seems so many things that can go wrong with super8 shooting that I am thinking of getting my cam serviced before I even put a roll through. I have a wind up Kinoflex which I bought new (old stock) 2 years ago. Im wondering as it hasnt done any work since manufacture (say 93), im wondering if it should be serviced? I am also considering buying a canon 814xl or 1014 so might get them both looked at. So who would tyou reccomend in thr UK? I know of Seandeancameras. Also, what shoukd be checked ona serviced? Lube of gears? Correct running speeds (18/24 etc)? Lens collomation? Light meter/appature checked? What else guys?? Thanks James

Many, many thanks for the reply guys. I hadnt even considered the light loss associated with the VF. I will run some test soon, just trying to get a solid plan together so I dont waste film. Does anyone know the sutter angle on a windup kinoflex? A few sites have the shutter speed at 24fps as 1/48 BUT I have read elswhere that the shutter angle isnt 180. So how can it be 1/48th?? Lastly, which is preferable, slightly under exposed, or slightly over exposed?? im talking in terms of what could be done later in post to correct. Thanks again James

Just got my first light meter, which I will be using for super 8. The thought crossed my mind as to whether all f stop numbers were equal to each other across different formats? eg lets say I had Super8, 16mm and 35mm camera next to each other. All camera were using 100 asa film, and all had the same shutter angle/speed. I then took a reading at it said 2.8. Does then setting all the cams appatures to 2.8 mean the same exposure will be achieved on all the cams?? ie 2.8 on 16mm is the same as 2.8 on super 8, and is the same as 2.8 on a still camera (given the same asa/shutter etc). Thanks guys James

Lol, no I havent got money to burn. I would have beens eriously put out if I had had to bin it!! I just wanted to make sure that I knew what I was in for after processing. As I say, Im a complete beginner, so will probaly make alot of mistakes. I need to know which are my mistakes, and which are the films. Thanks guys James

Thanks for the replys guys. Im in the uk, so it hasnt been hot at all. So if its affected, it will come out red? Im new to film shooting, so I could make alot of mistakes. When I get my film back from processing I need to know if what im seeing is down to my error, or is as a result of knackered film. I will pop it in the fridge, and send just one for processing. If it comes back red, ill know its no good? Thanks again James

Hi, guys, I still havent got round to outting my first ever super 8 rolls through my cam. In fact it has been nearly seven months since I had my Eltachrome 64t delivered!! I dont know why I didnt, but i didnt store it in the fridge, so it has been in the house (and thus subject to all the fluctuations in temperature) since then. Should i throw it away nad re-order (costly mistake!), or will it be ok?? Thanks guys tbip2001

Just though, am I right in saying that when I put my 64t film into the cam I should make no adjustment to the cams settings? Instead, I input the film speed into the meter and that determines the correct apature to shoot at (in theory)?? How do I quantify the controls on my cam in terms of F stops values?? My Kinoflex/quarz only has 0 and +1/+2 -1/-2 If my meter throws up say F8, how does this equate to my cam?? Many thanks James

Many thanks for the reply. One thing I am confused about is the difference between setting the exposure of the camera to match the film speed and setting the apature for the scene you are shooting. On a 35mm slr lens you have focus adjustment and apature adjustment actually on the lens, AND I can set the camera for the correct film speed im using via a different knob. But on my super 8 Kinoflex/quarz I only have one knob which ranges form 0 to +1/+2 and -1/-2 Presumably this is the same as the apature control on a 35mm slr? Can someone explain the difference between settin the cam for the film stock, and adjusting the apature?? Thanks again James

Many thanks for the detailed explonation! It is very much appreciated, as I dont have an english manual. Ive posted a reply above, would you comment on it please? Your experience is invaluable to me. :) Many thanks again James