Tad Howard

The pancake, quarter and half in the nesting sets are slightly narrower and shorter (although they are standard thickness) so that they will fit in the standard dimension Full Apple. So you'll have make or have made an oversized full apple to hold your current boxes. Good luck.

It's ready to go with the ear permanently installed. The hook swivels and is permanently attached. The body can be rotated knuckles up, knuckles down or knuckles anywhere around. It doesn't have stand legs poking out here or there. The ear appears much stronger than a normal C-boom casting. It has a junior receiver. The baby pin can stick out straight or at 90 degrees (with a hole for a hairclip for dead-hanging. All in all it's a versatile piece of gear.

Norms is open and their products are made in the U.S.A. They have some new products as well. My favorite is their new alternative to the old C-boom. http://normsgrip.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30367 We have been buying Norms products for "Nashville" and Shawn has been giving excellent customer service with quick turnaround on custom orders. Holler at 'em.

I like the 12x20 a lot. Doesn't catch nearly as much wind as a 20x20 but has nice width as a bounce. It also gives better coverage as an overhead than a 12x12. also the 5x7 and 6x8 for indoor locations. 4x4's and 6x6's should be a standard part of the package. Just use frames frequently, they can make a huge difference and make everything easier.

@ Bryan, I apologize for making you send for me that time. I try to be attentive. ;-)

I'm fond of "first floor", "second floor" and "top floor" or "third floor" when referring to apple box side placement.

sit n spin? take off the handle? http://www.amazon.com/Playskool-34715-Classic-Sit-n-Spin-Assortment/dp/B002P7564Q/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1356210600&sr=8-8&keywords=playskool+sit+and+spin

I like to use 8' long carpet runners. They can be purchased from a home improvement store (the blue or orange stores). They are just wider than the track. Flip them fuzzy side down and rubber side up so you can slide the runners and the track for adjustments. Place wedges (only if absolutely necessary) between track and rubber. I've used both spray type furniture polish and silicone spray as squeak treatment. Some folks have definite opinions, but I find either to be fine. Dish soap works too in a pinch. Good luck.

More smaller carts. C-stand cart with two crates. small head cart. Four by cart with flag bags or boxes. sand/shot bag cart. Good luck!

Duke, Compound curves on glass with flat ND is a super pain! Heat gun and automotive film is the best bet! How many rolls did we go through on that show? Then Uncle D. called me in to do more on "Tough Trade". Tell Chuck to "Go Big!" xoxoxo to your gurlz!

For cars, automotive window film works best. It has a built in adhesive. I have used a 50% mixture of sprite and water to stick ND to windows. Matthew is half right, a spray bottle with a soap mixture will allow a squeegie to slide along the outside of the film without pulling it out of place. So you use the sprite mixture between the film and the glass and the soap on the outside of the film. It's a tedious process, but works. Having proper tools and clean hands and moments laid out in advance in the schedule are key. Good luck

Duke can hook you up with custom rag bags and flag bags too! I've used his flag bags and they are an armored little slice of heaven!

Plus one on the Max Menace arms. We used two with Kino Image 80s over skylights of a mobile home in "Trials & Tribulations of a Trailer Trash Housewife". They were great. super strong and easily moved for changing focus (for script time of day). DP David Sanderson turned me onto them.

I'll stick to my quick release dog collar.

Wire scrims are for overall. Nets are for cutting down specific areas.

ubangi Chainvised to basket rail works well. My 4way leveling head with grid clamps bolted to it works nicely as well. Don't forget to use safeties.

Cranes have a lot to offer visually. Just be safe, watch your overhead and wear your steel-toes and back-brace.

I bought one of theseempire pipe cutter from Sears and keep it in one of my tool bags. It does a nice job but you should still de-burr the inside of the pipe. I like to use a metal chop saw most of the time though. I'm new to the forum, but I know Mr. Duke.