Tassanee Duca

Good morning, and Merry Christmas. I have a Bolex H16 EL, with adapter for Nikon 35mm photographic lenses. Some time ago I read on a forum (I think on this one, but I haven't found any more traces of it) about an existing problem with the coupling of photographic lenses on Bolex cameras. In the post there was reference to a focusing problem using these lenses at the widest apertures, so I would like to have more details on this problem, especially starting from which aperture the problem no longer exists. Finally, since I intend to have this camera modified for the Super16 format, I wanted to get some opinions from those who have a 16mm Bolex and have already made this modification. I thank everyone and once again Merry Christmas. ?

Thanks Simon and Joerg for the replies. I had already evaluated the possibility of using an angular viewfinder, with magnification, of those used for reflex cameras. I think the least difficult solution is to adapt one of these angle viewfinder to the Beaulieu viewfinder. Perhaps I could use the angle finder by simply "putting it in contact" it with the cinecamera viewfinder while focusing, and then putting it away again.

Hi Brian, thanks for the reply. But my problem is not about the diopter adjustment of the viewfinder, which is ok, but the fact of having the image in the viewfinder magnified, in the central area by at least 2x, in order to focus with maximum precision. For example, putting some kind of "magnifying glass" or something like that in front of the viewfinder, which magnifies the viewfinder image by at least 2 times. This would help me above all to focus correctly in cases of low light shooting, where I have to use wide apertures (and therefore, with very shallow depth of field)

Greetings to all forum users. Here's my "little" problem: I have a 16mm Beaulieu movie camera, whose viewfinder doesn't shine brightly (excuse the pun). In addition, my eyesight is unfortunately not perfect. The result is that it is not easy for me to focus correctly on the framed scene, the result is that then some of my shots show an annoying blur. So I would like to ask you if there is a device to put in front of the viewfinder of the camera, which allows me an enlarged view of the viewfinder image, in order to perform a perfect focus (I have seen, for example, that for analogic reflex cameras there are corner viewfinders with magnification of 2x and above, which unfortunately I can not use on my film camera). Thank you in advance.

Hi, I have a Bolex EL too (you can read my post). If you haven't solved the problem yet: The problem may be: 1) on the battery 2) on the charger 3) on the camera. With a tester (if you don't have it, you can buy it for a few dollars), measure the battery voltage. It must be around 12 V (precisely, from 10.5V to 13.5V). Voltage greater than 16.5V will damage the camera. Voltage less than 10.5 V operates the exposure meter but not the camera motor. If the battery voltage is around 12 V, the problem will be in the camera (battery and charger will be ok). If, on the other hand, the voltage is less than 10.5V, the problem will be on the recelled battery or on the charger.

About Bolex problem: Hi, as you suggested me, I checked the cable I used to connect the 12V lead battery to the Bolex; it results that on the output poles, there are 12 V both on the poles that feed the motor (poles 1 and 4), and 12 V on the poles that feed the electronic circuit (poles 2 and 3). See diagram. Now, 12V to power the electronic circuit seems to me too many ... maybe that's the reason why, after a few minutes of operation, the camera motor, at whatever shooting rate I had set, went at maximum speed, and after a while the whole body of the camera was getting hot ... I did another test, replacing the previous cable with another cable that powers only the camera motor (poles 1 and 4), I turned several test rolls (more precisely, a roll that I advanced and then rewind with the backward of the camera and then forward again) and nothing strange happened, the camera remained "cold", only it always shot at the same speed (I think 18 fps) at every shooting speed that I set, even if I set the single frame, it went at 18 fps. This is probably due to the fact that the electronic circuit was not powered. Basically, by powering only the motor with 12 V, it advances at 18 fps and also reverses, in addition, the exposure meter cell works correctly. So, to solve the problem and have the full functionality of the camera, I need to know exactly what voltage the electronic circuit must be powered with. Who can give me this information? Thanks

Hi Dom Jaeger, I thank you for the answer. The Bolex just heats up, it doesn't emit any smoke, so I don't think it's reverse polarity, but an anomalous resistance (also because with the original battery I had shot several rolls of film without any problem ..). The electrical cable that connects the lead acid battery to the camera was handcrafted, perhaps the problem could be in the cable. With a tester, I will measure the output voltage from the cable, on the socket; if in the cable (or in the connection with the socket) there is an abnormal resistance, the output voltage should be less than 12V ... This is important. So, I will be able to create with a stylus battery holder (with 5 Li-Ion 1.5V batteries connected in series), a 7.5V "battery pack" for the Beaulieu, and another (with 8 1.5V batteries) 12V for the Bolex, which by the way will be lighter than the lead acid battery. Of course, before connecting these battery packs to the cameras, I will check their output voltages with the tester...

Hello everybody. I present my problem concerning the power supply of two 16mm cameras. Some time ago I bought a Bolex H16 EL (used but in good condition), with its original battery pack. Everything worked smoothly, until the battery stopped working. A cinematographer, already owner of a similar camera, explained to me how to power it with a common lead-acid battery, which in his case worked very well and kindly sent me one of these batteries, the charger and a cable to connect it to the camera. These the technical data of the lead-acid battery: Shimastu NPG 7,2-12,12V 7,2 Ah - The battery was always charged at a voltage of 12V. Original camera battery technical data (from Bolex manual): SAFT VR-type Ni-Cd battery with low internal resistance and with a safety valve as protection against excessive pressure, nominal voltage 12 V-DC (alternating current excluded, because can destroying elements). Also from the Bolex manual: " The H16 EL can be powered by any 12V battery capable of supplying the necessary current: voltage limits: 10,5 to 13,5 V DC, all function ensured. 16,5 V DC: limit for not damaging the electronic system. Starting current: about 10A, for a fraction of a second; normal consumption: from 0,8 to 1,2 A, depending of method of operation." Regarding the battery elements, it is specified in the manual that: "the power packs for the H16 EL consist of a set of 10 1,35 V Ni-Cd storage batteries connetted in series." What happens when I connect the lead-acid battery (charged at 12V) to the camera: for a few minutes, everything works normally. I tried running the camera at various shooting speeds (10 to 50 fps) with a roll of film that I use for testing, and everything is smooth, including single shot. After a few minutes, however, the problems begin: at any shooting rate that I set, the camera always runs at maximum speed, even if I set the single shot. Furthermore, even if the camera is turned off, but always connected to this battery, after a while the camera will overheat until it becomes very hot ... These problems did not exist when I was using the original Bolex battery. What could be the cause of this problem? Maybe the voltage supplying the lead acid battery is not the correct one? Or is it not constant over time? Also, I would like to solve the power supply problem for another camera, a Beaulieu 2016 Quartz. Also on this one, the original battery packs (7.5 V - 1.2 Ah) that I had have now come to an end (and how for those of Bolex, it is impossible for me to buy them again, both for their difficult availability and for their prohibitive cost). Knowing that the Beaulieu for the S.8 are powered by normal rechargeable AA batteries (it seems to me 6 1.2V Ni-Cd batteries), I ask you if it is not possible to do the same with the "big sister" in 16mm? For example, regarding the Beaulieu, I had thought of this solution: use a common battery holder, with 5 rechargeable 1.5 V Li-Ion batteries, connected in series, to reach the voltage of 7.5V (like that of batteries originals). In this way, I would have the correct voltage and an even higher capacity (about 2.5 Ah against 1.2 Ah of the originals). I could do the same on the Bolex: battery holder of 8 rechargeable Li-Ion 1.5V 2500 mAh batteries, connect in series to get an output voltage of 12V. My question is: can such a solution work (and will it not damage cameras)? In conclusion, I am looking for a valid (and cheap) alternative to power these two cameras, still very valid and fully functional. Unfortunately, I have no skills in the field of electrical engineering, so I ask if there is anyone who can confirm the validity of the solution I have thought of, and if it is not valid, to suggest another valid (and cheap) solution. Thank you.

Hello everybody! Some time ago I bought a used Bolex H16 EL. The battery (original Bolex 1.2 Ah) was practically "dead", but the seller assured me that with that camera he regularly used a common 12 V DC lead accumulator, and he immediately sent me one of these batteries ( Shimastu 12V-7.2Ah), its charger and various connection cables. This battery supplies the same voltage as the original Bolex battery (12 V DC), but I immediately noticed two problems: By connecting this battery to the camera, at least initially everything runs smoothly (and the various advancement speeds of the film are correct), but after a few minutes, the camera starts spinning at full speed, even if I've selected the single frame! Furthermore, by keeping the camera connected to this battery for a certain time, even with the camera not running, the camera starts to heat up more and more, so much so that once, remained connected to this battery for about an hour, still remaining " turned off "(not in operation), the camera body had become very hot! So, I ask you: what do these two problems depend on? Do they depend on this lead battery, or is there a problem in the camera? Needless to say, because of all this, I can't use my camera ... Look forward your answers, thanks. Tassanee

Complete treatment for the GigabitfilmGTP. I'd like to indicate to all the users of Gigabitfilm GTP the following treatment: 1) Development: 24°C 11 minutes with (1+15) on 250 ml water 17 ml chemistry and/or on 350 ml water 23 ml chemistry. 2) Stop bath: At least 3% Acetic acid stop bath set (reference: With 99% concentrate = 30 ml per litre stop bath, with 60 70% =50ml/l, with 25% = 120 ml/l use), at least are altogether 30 sec. with a overturn tank every 15 seconds, but not longer than 1 minute. 3) FIX: 16 ml fixing bath concentrate (Superfix Plus, Ilford Hypam, Rollei RXA) and/or 24 ml Agfa Agefix on 250 ml water (for 266 and/or 274 ml Fixing bath), as a fixing time with this dilution are valid 3 minute. 4) First washing in running water (same temperature of the development and FIX) 15 minutes. 5) Non oxidizing Hypo eliminators bath, such as Kodak Microfilm Clearing bath. Attention: Hypo eliminators containing oxidizing agents, such as peroxide, should be avoided, because they can promote image deterioration. 6) Second washing (like point 4) 7) Final bath with wetting agent (about 2 min.). Tank agitation: During the first 30 sec., only 1 movement of overturn (turn upside down) of the tank every 5 second (6 times during the first 30 sec.) After these first 30 sec. is enough 1 movement (overturn) every 30 second. When the tank moves, will be necessary to make soon (to fill up the tank, then to close the cover, then to move it the first time). With all tank these three actions (to fill up/to close/to move) would have to be made in less than 15 second. For an optimal conservation to longest time (archival) of the Gigabitfilm negatives (than with a corrected treatment, with an complete hypo elimination has an E.L. of 500 years), I council the use of negatives sleeves (and box reel) in MicroChamber, able to protect the archives negatives from many acids and polluting substances presents in the air (like paint fumes, peroxides, nitrogen oxides, hydrogen sulfide, sulfur dioxide, ozone, ammonia, etc) that in the long term damage all the photographic material, film and print. I remain to disposition for further info. Td

Thanks. For the agitation of my development tank I make the same for all treatment: During the first 30 sec., only 1 movement of overturn (turn upside down) of the tank every 5 second (6 times during the first 30 sec.) After these first 30 sec. is enough 1 movement (overturn) every 30 second. Therefore, 3 min. for the fix with this agitation is ok? Td

Development and fix of new GIGABITFILM GTP Mr. Wyss, I have found on of the Gigabitfilm website the datasheet of the GTP, written in German :wub: :wub: . I'd like to know if the following information about the development and the fixing are exact: 1) DEVELOPMENT x an gamma 0,55: 24°C 11 minutes with (1+15) on 250 ml water 17 ml chemistry and/or on 350 ml water 23 ml chemistry. It is exact? 2) FIXING: on the datasheet is written: "Für 4 Filme reichen 16 ml Fixierbadkonzentrat (Superfix Plus, Ilford Hypam, Rollei RXA) bzw 24 ml Agfa-Agefix auf 250 ml Wasser (für 266 bzw. 274 ml Fixierer), als Fixierzeit gelten bei dieser Verdünnung 3 Minuten." I would want to use Agfa Agefix, therefore, 24 ml of concentrated fix diluted in 250 ml of water (tot. 274 ml fix bath) is ok in order to fix only 1 film 35mm 36 exp? 3) To this dilution is ok an fix time of 3 minutes? Td

Limits of the test: 1) to use T-Max 100 and Velvia is not the maximum, with the Gigabitfilm the resolutions would be greater (the Zeiss use microfilm like the Gigabitfilm for the tests of its lenses): 2) In the test it is spoken about two optical zoom: you make the test with a fixed lens as the Zeiss Planar 50 T 50 mm f/1,4 and you see the difference... ;)

Karl, Your analysis is not exact. The very big resolution of the Gigabitfilm takes advantage of to the maximum the lens optical quality, the grain does not exist and the images have a look grain-free that the traditional films b/n do not have. Moreover the highest latitude (than e' of 10 stop with new GTP) allows to capture details in the high lights and the shadows very dark. You know other film b/n that have 10 stop of latitude ? I believe not? Another point in favor of the Gigabitfilm is its support in polyester, than with the exception of the triacetate is not degraded in the time because of the acetic syndrome, but remains unchanged for hundred and hundred of years? Your images will be recorded in the best ways and will resist more a long in the time on the Gigabitfilm. I have used Kodak Plus X, Ilford Fp4 and Foma in the format cine 16mm and then I have tried the Gigabitfilm. I have seen the difference, till when I not will find an better film of the Gigabitfilm I do not have no intention to change B) :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Yes, I think that the Gigabitfilm 16mm is the better film b/n in the world for this cinematographic format... Also I have shot some reel of this film, the images quality is extraordinary. I hope that mr. Wyss come back soon to develop this film :rolleyes: