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Kyryll Sobolev

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Posts posted by Kyryll Sobolev

  1. MYT Works Camera Slider
    3 foot, Large (width of 11"), Mitchell Mount
    $2500 USD

    The slider is in excellent condition. Moves smoothly and without issues.
    Photos can be viewed here:
    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1V0HOKqTZNuWESA0C1ch3yzAefEHHhQe7?usp=sharing

    The slider comes with:
    - Dust caps (https://www.mytworks.com/product/dust-caps/)
    - Rosette leg adapter kit (https://www.mytworks.com/product/rosette-leg-adapter-kit/)

    Located in Toronto. Will ship at buyer's expense.

    2 forum.jpg

  2. Canon C300 Mk I, PL-mount, with Tilta accessories.
    Asking $1,500 USD

    Photos can be viewed here:
    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1alNcHOayt7NvtrQJeVj-y0ccGEXOV_WH?usp=sharing

    The camera still works great! It was infrequently used for very small projects.
    Internal battery replaced in 2017. This may have reset the operating Hours Meter.
    It currently reads 412 Hours, but it is likely closer to 800 Hours over the camera's lifespan.

    For the PL-mount: it seems to have lost an internal pin which stops the mount from rotating more than 1/4 turn in the open position. That is, it can keep rotating if you let it. Other than being a minor nuisance this does not affect the PL mount - it holds the lenses securely in the closed position.

    The package comes with:
    - original Canon accessories, some of which have never been used (see photos)
    - Tilta CANON C300/C500 Camera Rig: Top Handle wit Hotshoe, C300 Top/Side Cage, LSW Base Plate with cheeseplate, x2 15mm rods
    - x2 Canon batteries (BP-955, BP-975) with battery charger
    - x2 32Gb cards (SanDisk Extreme, 120 Mb/s, UDMA 7) with USB card reader
    - Canon AC power supply

    The package is located in Toronto, Canada.
    Buyer to pay shipping.

    1 forum.jpg

  3. i feel like for most cinema viewers, the brain compensates for any possible centre of perspective changes much the same way that it adjusts the "white balance" of the eyes

    sure at some extreme angles and distances a shot may look weird on a giant screen. but the movie theatre by design cannot have an ideal viewing perspective for everyone

  4. if the adapter is RF-to-PL, it won't help much. because you need the most solid connection at the camera body.
    if you simply attach a PL adapter into the camera's RF mount, the RF will still bear all the weight and torque of the lens.

    i think it comes down to what you shoot, and how you shoot.
    RF is perfectly fine for a lot of things.
    PL is more solid/precise solution to get results where the margin of error has to be significantly smaller.

    • Like 1
  5. PL mount is far more robust and allows very little movement on the lens when focus/iris/zoom motors engage.

    with RF/EF mounts you will notice the lens physically moving more when motors hit the end points, or even on a big enough focus rack. this results in an image that shifts up/down.

    PL is more "industrial" in this way, and reliably works for many hours a day, every day, in every weather. it can also support heavier lenses with matteboxes/filters/diopters attached to them.

    • Thanks 1
  6. Bolt-PRO (1st Gen)
    Two sets available. Willing to sell each set of Tx/Rx separately.

    Note, these are 1st Generation Bolts!
    They will not perform like the recent Teradeks, and have the limitations of the 1st Gen devices.
    But they do work just fine for what they are.

    SET A
    $275 USD
    Tx is not PRO. S/N: 70004732I
    Rx PRO. S/N: 72501485G
    x1 P-tap power cable
    x1 AC power cable

    SET B
    $250 USD
    Tx PRO. S/N: 72004790I
    Rx PRO, S/N: 72506094G
    x1 P-tap power cable

    or $500 USD for both sets.

    Better photos here:
    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1GW8vz0ZXDrewqptE-j4_a_SmH33raXQ4?usp=sharing

    Shipping from Toronto, Canada.

    BOLT SET A 1 small.jpg

    BOLT SET B 1 small.jpg

  7.  
    6-lens set of LOMO OKS for sale.
    Asking $10,000 USD
    Shipping from Toronto, Canada.

    You can look at the photos here:
    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12wbw4khFjhsz6GwpSBNa8_JSaJvCSGrQ?usp=sharing


    Here is the technical info and my notes:

    18mm, T3 (i measured it with a lens tech to be a T2.8)
    OKC5-18-1
    Serial #880120
    Note: designed for 35mm frame (22x16mm), so vignettes slightly on Super 35mm (24.89x16.66mm) which is most modern cameras today that are not full-frame.

    22mm, T2.4 (measured 2.13)
    OKC3-22-1
    Serial #870036
    Note: designed for 22x16mm frame, so vignettes slightly on Super 35mm.

    35mm, T3.2 (measured 2.9)
    OKC2-35-1
    Serial #780002

    50mm, T2.3 (measured 2)
    OKC1-50-6
    Serial #800417

    75mm, T2.2 (measured 2)
    OKC6-75-2
    Serial #770054
    Note: the PL mount is thousands of an inch thicker than regular, so the
    mount on the camera does not rotate as far it normally would. However,
    it locks the lens perfectly fine, and infinity/distance markers are
    not affected.

    100mm, T2.3 (measured 2)
    OKC1-100-1
    Serial #750055
    Note: I am not sure if some elements in this lens are uncoated, but you need to
    really keep the mattebox tight on this lens to keep it from looking
    washed out.

     

    small18.jpg

    small22.jpg

    small35.jpg

    small50.jpg

    small75.jpg

    small100.jpg

  8. as others have said, and to answer the question directly, yes it dangerous to the digital sensor to have a laser pointed at it

    however, there are situations where i needed to measure from somewhere on set to the camera, usually to get a natural mark quickly.

    just dont aim near the lens... bring the laser carefully from the floor up to the tripod head, or operator's body ?, or someone's hand in line with the film plane.

    this is usually not a critical mark, so your measuring point doesn't need to be as close to the camera body as possible. just in line with the plane.

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