Kyryll Sobolev

from markus's website we can see what it looks like. no idea what that adhesive film is though https://www.markusforderer.com/spectrum-filter 39aef2_8e7c31086a9d4e9daf5ce37a3c405217.webp

i wonder if we can find more bts photos that would be clearer what is in front of the lens looks like a glass or prism on a 114mm diopter attachment in front of the lens

i didn't see this thread earlier i dealt with this issue in 2017 with my c300 mk i. the problem is that the internal battery naturally wears out over time. it is replaceable on the mk i version, but not later versions. next issue was that canon stopped manufacturing the replaceable battery, and had a new PCB board with a permanently wired battery (like the newer versions). i believe at the time they charged something like $500 minimum to open up any cinema EOS product. but they sold me the PCB assembly board for $40 with a screw driver and a few beers i took out the old assembly and installed the new one. the camera functions to this day :) i attached the picture of what they had originally sent me. part #13 is the old battery the new board assembly in 2017 had part number "DG3-4157-010 PCB ASS'Y, SD, W/LI-BATT." on the invoice

hi ben, i sent you an email

you can also get a second wireless hand unit and use the wheel to control the zoom - it would be more intuitive for fine adjustments, and you can place marks on the wheel to time the zoom properly. additionally, it would help with what satsuki mentions about apparent zoom speed, because you can slow down the zoom at the tighter end with more precision you would need another person doing this (not operator or 1st ac)

he is just describing the projection process in the theater - projected film light bounces off the screen (sheet) and into audience eyes

phil, are you asking about the lens or the artistic tools? i had to look up what the crystal dome is

setting up the tools for the artist to work with ?

i have not used wcu4 for that purpose. in theory, yes that is how it should work, but i don't know for sure. do a test before you shoot.

you can use a preston microforce, or radio microforce for wireless option (but you need an MDR for that, so basically renting an entire preston kit)

for stubborn lenses/motor/rod combinations, i have used an elastic band - wrap one end around the motor bracket, wrap the other end somewhere to the camera (evf rods), so the elastic bands are constantly pulling the motor into the lens

tighten the motor lock to the rod, and tighten the rod lock at the camera body either one of those, or both, are loose enough to allow disengaging otherwise, gently hold the motor to the lens while calibrating, to physically not allow it to move away from the lens

i was prepping a camera package this week and optimo 24-290 was on the list. so this is how i usually put this lens on the camera. the video only shows the lens part - i've prepared the camera beforehand with the long plate, rods, and lens support bracket https://youtu.be/5LVhoFzOf7c

for an even greater understanding of how video chips transform light into pixels, i went down the google rabbit hole with these terms: - cmos, photon, electron, hole (it might return this for starters http://spiff.rit.edu/classes/ast613/lectures/ccds_kids/ccds_kids.html) and your youtube rabbit hole may start at somewhere like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ag0iSs5vhs happy googletubing!

this lens was designed for 16x22mm frame, and i think alexa in prores 3.2k is 14.85x26.4mm but test it out, and let us know! it may just cover it

is this a trick question? isn't just simple math? 1280/720=1.77 desqueezed image height is still 720, but the aspect ratio is 3.56, so desqueezed image size is 720x3.56=2563.2 2563x720

joel, if you can tell me the make of each lens, i can tell you what frame they were designed to cover. on the lens body it should say something like ОКС1-50-4 lomo lenses do not have 0,8 pitch focus/iris gears, so you'd have to modify that matte box for earlier lomos needs to be a rod-based one. lens fronts usually rotate, so cannot use clip-on mb.

i have not used this before, but i can read the manual the scan of the manual is available here https://eugigufo.net/files/photovideo/video/ladaorig.pdf (it's not OCR, so you can't copy/paste) that iris attachment seems to be, from what i can tell, a special effects attachment, so you can shoot vignetted frames. it is attached by means of an adapter ring (pdf page 26, item 17) manual says: the iris attachment can only be used when the camera iris is set to T1.7, 2, 2.8, 11, and 16. it is not recommended for use when the camera iris is set to T4, 5.6, 8 because the iris attachment is asymetrical and the image will look skewed if you are looking to adjust the T stop, using the lever under the lens (pdf page 5, item 5). look through the viewfinder to see the T stop

this camera has the option of manual or automatic exposure the KA P switch is what allows you to change between manual/automatic K - battery control (not quite sure what that means) A - automatic exposure (needs RC-53 battery) P - manual

i can't say that i have ever seen anyone tilt the camera upwards to mount a heavy lens. i think you would be asking for something to drop straight into the sensor. this is often not practical either - if a camera is on a hostess tray of a car rig, or on a stabilized head, rainy/snowy day, windy/dusty location, etc. different ACs have their own preferred methods, but generally for a big lens like 24-290 optimo people will attach the lens support to the lens, and then put the lens support on the rods to take off the weight, then guide the lens into the mount. sometimes this does not work as the support pushes the lens up too much, and you need to loosen it so the lens can be inserted straight into the mount. with a smaller but heavy lens like 180mm ana prime (14 lbs?), or cooke 65mm ana macro (12 lbs), i would put the lens support on the rods first, then use both hands to guide the lens into the mount. close the mount, slide over the lens support and attach to lens. before doing any of that, and especially unmounting, lock the tilt on the head!

a doubler will work with anamorphic, but test each lens to see if it physically clears the space dom mentions this also, abelcine tested their doubler with a lot of different lenses, some which are anamorphic https://www.abelcine.com/articles/blog-and-knowledge/tools-charts-and-downloads/plx-extender-compatibility

i was reverse-stuck at the cottage for 2 months. we went there for reading week break, and then everything got shut down so i did cottage things like digging... and building, and more digging

what do you have set as input on the smallhd? it might be on hdmi at the moment

lunch everywhere will be more like this now additional rain in britain and vancouver as required