Niclas Tornblom

Hi, We are shooting on 35mm,122m at 3 perf at 25fps. And i need a converting table: meters to seconds/ minuets in 3 perf. I've searched the web, but i cant find any list or table. thanks

unfortunately i cant upload a picture. something is wrong with my browser. Hope it make any sence without any image untill ive fixed it...

Hi everyone. Im shooting a film on 16mm in a few days and have some questions about exposure for a particular scene. The scene is set in a forest during early evening, and some sun shines is coming through the trees and illuminate a man sitting on a rock. My idea is to measure the ambient light and measure the sun shine fallling to the ground and exposure for something between the highlights and the low lights. So i would get the man in a kind of silhouette, and get the highlights bright, but not to bright, and the darkest areas in forest not to dark. so far, i think it's good. see picture The tricky part is, when im doing a reverse shoot during the same scene. I still have the character who sits on the stone and gets illuminated by the sun, in a medium close up. In the background it's another character who looks at him, also in the same sunlight. How do i exposure for the characters faces and how do i exposure the background of the forest so it matches the first scene. see the picture. my Idea was to exposure something between the highlights and the lowlights, but if i do so in the reverse shot (medium close up of the character sitting on the stone) im a bit afraid he will be to bright, unless if i exposure for his light, but then the background of the forest is gona be all dark and would not match the first shot ( see picture.) I hope all this make any sence.

So we are shooting on the SR 3 advanced, but i cant decide what optik to use. I was thinking of using zeiss zoom 11-110 to get a softer feelin instead of using the primes. But it seems that the zoom lens is on service during our time of shooting. so i have to choose what primes to go with... if i wanna go for a softer feelin', and less saturation in colors...witch on to choose? any suggestions zeiss ultra zeiss high speed cooke sk4 (would be to expensive i guess)

I think i have the same problem....it's in the center of the frame....but im nor 100 percent sure...i have shoot two films with my k-3 and the first film turned out to be fine, with out a single scratch...but the second hade a long scratch in the middle... I guess it couldbe the lab aslo...I will opload my video shorley so u can se what i mean. nick

Thank you! Looking forward to do some test! best Niclas

Thank you David. Does the fogfilter/ dubbel fog filter, requires any particular lightning? My goal is to use only natural light as much as possible. What's the difference between Promist and Fog? Thanks, Nick.

Hi, Im shooting a fantasy/ comedy in a few weeks on super 16. And it's supose to look like a dream. I'm talkin about, foggy mornings, soft images without not to many bright colors. slow talking images etc. I think ill go for some kind of fog filters or black pro mist, to create the illusion of fog. we are shooting very early in the morning, near a lake, so im asking how to create this dream like images and what filter etc. to use. any suggestions? should i stick with my fog filters or any other ideas? Nick.

Sven Nykvist

interesting. the thing is,,,that im doing my own shortends....so im always rounding in meters...but hrm, i guess im just guestimated the film badly,,,i wounder if i should round to the nearest five meters? let's say i have about 57 meters in the magazine...i would rounded to, 50 meters...57-5 is 52...round to the neares 5 or 10 so it should be 50meters...does this make any sense? thanks!

hi, everyone! im working on my first tv series as a 2:ac and it's going ok. but i have one serious problem, when im usining my shortends,,,they seam to be shorter then they should be. ...i have 60 meters left in the mag. I put it back in a can....label the can as "60 meters" then i put it back in the mag...and withdrawl about 5 meters for unload and loading...so it should about 55 meters in the mag...but it turns out to be only 50meters....why? do i have to withdrawl 10 meters instead? does any one have any suggestions? the camera we are using is the arriflex 416, 16mm sorry for my broken english, and thanks for all your help. best. Niclas

I like the night shoots....nice lightning! Good work!

Ok, I've bought an old light meter called, "Norwood B" But i have no clue how to use it properly....I find it hard to read out f-stops when shooting in cinespeeds...can someone help me out? They only thing i do know for sure, is how to set the asa...but how to read out the corect f stop at 24 fps it's a problem for me... cheers!

Thank you alex for your email!

Thanks Olex! Very helpfull! I've tryied with a 8 volt with 3.2 amp hr. So Ampere is not enough here?! This battery is called Power ps sonic Model ps - 832, and was shipped with the camera with a charger...I've tryied to use it for the camera but it seems that the battery isn't strong enough... when i connenct the battery with the motor, the motor is spining about, 1 frame per second on 24 fps. and it doesnt spin at all in the camera, the camera is just making a buzzing noise... So, should i get a 6 volt battery with 12 AH, and the camera should work ok on 16 fps? Any ideas how to suply enough of power to run 24fps, with out upgrading the motor? thanks

I've bought a konvas on beay, and it looks great...but the battery wont spin the shutter...but when i remove the motor from the camera the motor spins slowly...is the motor bad? ( 15 ncc is writen in russia on the motor) or bad battery?I've charged but i dont think its enough power in the battery....i use a 8 volts battery, but it's the same battery from the previous owner and i guess it's to old... Please help me! darn....!

Thanks Olex! I've send a PM to you. btw...how much power do i need from the battery to provide the motor with enough power?

Here is a picture of how the frame looks inside the viewfinder. I took out the viewfinder and the prism looks to be ok inside the camera (i can see the crosshair and it looks to be in the centre of the prism...so i believe it's the viewfinder that's in the pain in the a-- I dont really care if the viewfinder makes a Dutch angle when tilting the viewfinder, but i want to see the whole frame when the viewfinder is in normal position. But i can't... I guess that it's the mirror inside the viewfinder that is uneven or off position ...or is it the mask inside that covers the top of the frame? Thanks!

Greetings! Ok, just got my konvas 1m and it looks freaking sweet! But,,,i can't get my head around this problem with the frame.... cant se the whole frame in the viewfinder....the topp of the frame is covered in black (mask inside the viewfinder???) and the frame looks uneven....and when i turn the viewfinder up and down,,,the frame starts to make a wierd "dutch" movement...crazy indeed but how to fix this problem? somehting to do with the viewfinder it self or is it the prism/ shutter? Have no idea,,,cheers!