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Ansis Imaks

Basic Member
  • Posts

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About Ansis Imaks

  • Birthday 09/09/1983

Profile Information

  • Occupation
    Producer
  • Location
    Ogre, Latvia, EU
  • My Gear
    Canon EOS 7D, 40D, Krasnogorsk 3
  • Specialties
    Picture, Video, Music and electronics.

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.ansius.lv
  1. I did some more research (I have to dig trough my book library as well that takes time...) an all I could find is the 36cm for narrow (some other literature it is called folded track), as well, some of the manufacturer products we have here like panther, can go to the 36cm (14.2") so I assume that this is not that popular standard but anyway - i really would like to know.
  2. With my partner we have been working on our own dolly system, and so far have been rather successful. The track we built in general conforms with the standard 2ft 1/2" spec, so in case needed we can rent other dolly or other tracks. It is built form thick wall 6061-T6 aluminum tubes, so does job rather well. Pieces are about 6ft (195cm) long, and we have so far 3 of them so total is just about 19ft of track. but, we had an idea, what if we need the narrow gouge, like in tight space, or we need just one peace slider. as all our design is rather modular, so the wheel system would be reusable, track them self as well. Hence the question - what is the gouge for narrow tracks, all my research has turned up 1ft 2" but there is a question is it exactly 14" ? or it is 1ft 2&1/8"? (14.2"). I really would like build equipment that conforms with industry standards. Machining is no problem, I have access to CNC mills and lathes, and I'm also familiar with SolidWorks, so drawing and making is no problem, problem is to what spec? Happy new year and thank you in advance!
  3. Ansis Imaks

    NX5

    I've played around with it in one multi-camera shoot, and cam to the same conclusion as always - the first camera in any series of cameras sony makes are heavily flawed. unfortunately. It offers great features, but i would choose different camera for this. ergonomics are odd, you can get lost in menus, etc. z5, z7 especially is grate camera, ex1/ex3 is even better. depends from your taste. For long time I used PD170 and still use because for an ancient camera it is you can can get superb results if you learn some tricks in post. nx5 codec is heavy for post, even my system is quite good I have to work with proxies to get in the speed I like to work. if you really need the tapeless workflow, nx5 is your answer, I would prefer z5 or z7, if i can't get ex3 for wedding / documentary film, for ergonomics I would go to JVC ProHD series witch I love to use, but the low light nonperformance of JVC renders it useless for the wedding documentary. sorry for my chaotic comments - my resume, rent the cameras you would like to by and try them, witch ever works the best for you, compare the footage by yourself, etc.
  4. I foud this one wery high value: The Visual Story - creating the visual structure of film, tv and digital media - Second Edition - 2008 - by Bruce Block
  5. You probably know, sellers of used and old equipment sometimes may surprise you. often in bad way, but i had an exception. For the price (witch is about 40$ US) I got two Krasnogorsk K3 cameras and bunch of accessories, Cameras are not in mint condition, but both run. Seller told that they were used if some sort of technical school, but not really been useful (even in soviet times) and were about to be thrown out. Teacher just took them as maybe someday will be useful but then decided to sell. One of the nice accessories is FED macro adapter, bad thing is that Zoom lens has had a traumatic experience as seen on one side and i can see that in some small spots the glued glass have separated, defects ar not big, and not that well noticeable trough viewfinder. but still I would not use the lance anyway. one of the cameras had missing lens but this is not a problem as I anyway want to use still camera primes which some I have and I can easily obtain. but I even got original manual and warranty card (sad, not that useful tough ;). I'll clean, and service them, before I run some new film trough. I hope this is a nice start of journey in the film cinematography. than you for your answers and for sure when I'll have questions I will ask them.
  6. Thank you for your posts! и спосибо! wrapping up Krasnogosk k3 seams o be ok for my needs, and especially for the price I get can get it, so I will! Hopefully I'll learn film as one more creative tool in my disposal and when I have chance - move to more sophisticated camera with crystal sync, decent high speed, etc.
  7. First excuse me for my English, not my first language. I have experience with video cameras (I own DSR-PD170, have worked with various JVC ProHDs and some more), but not film. I'm more of a directors that dop / operator. Reason is to study / learn film as I have some ideas I would like to make more serious than video camera would do. I have a chance to get working Krasnogorsk K3 very cheap. M42 mount and standard lens. I was google'ing but haven't found any decent demo form what I could judge picture, or really compressed or poorly processed film. Knowing that this is not a pro camera, and can't compare with arri or others, is it really worth? or practise with video / digital cinema / stil film cameras and then get arri or some other more serious camera. + *) cheap, but good optics, as I'm living in post Soviet Union country I can get very good lenses. *) simple camera *) price - *) for sure not as good as pro 16mm cameras *) 16mm and not that good for making S16 out of it (yet possible) *) spring wind. (this is one place where I could rebuild it as I'm in electronics and mechanics) any tips or suggestions? thank you!
  8. I have Vinten Pro6 toght this is about $900 but you for sure can find used one, or one model lower Pro5 for your budget. they are realy nice, very fluid head. and easy to use and set up.
  9. As this camera is SD and by spec this is a 50i camera, captured material is interlaced. most of software deinterlace by removing one of the feald's and genereating the middle one. So you lose actually half of the resolution. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deinterlacing if you see artifacts if interlacing (on fast motion) then there is no deinterlacing happening, gut if you see none then footage is deinterlaced solution is proper deinteleacing, but i don't know how to do that on mac. on pc I use virtualdub + smart deinterlace if this is not your case, see if this artifact changes when you close iris (should go less, if this is an optics issue / feature).
  10. This is not a good way, because: *) camera has bad and noisy ADC (I have two DSR-PD170 and still nothing has changed), and the is much of camera generated electric noise as well *) DV contained 48KHz is ok, but not the 16bit part, it is so had to fix if something is wrong with levels (when you have no specialy dedicated person who knows how to fallow levels an does that well), no place for headroom, because if you record too quiet then you get much noise. quality is ok for ENG applications but not for film. You even don't have to. For example I use M-AUDIO NRV-10 witch is a decent 8 track mixing desk with FireWire ADC on every input. 96KHz and 24bit. It costs about 900$ US, but I got mine used about 500$ + you need a computer + software. And you have got a decent sound recording system. As your microphone is the first link in the chain, choose them carefully. Whatever system you have, you will have to work with what the mic picked up, bad mic or it's placement and no super cool recording gear can fix this. As I'm as well very limited in finances, I chose Rode NTG-2 shotguns for my Sony DSR-PD170 (I have two of them, and their stock mic is horrible) and ElectroVoice RE90-L lavalier, what was the best price / quality I could get for the money I had and that I didn't want to shop out of EU (no additional taxes). I bought them in www.thomann.de. there is a good recoding forum http://homerecording.com/bbs/index.php so this is my humble view and road I went. Other issue you will have syncing the Bolex with sound, because if you Bolex has no crystal motor, you are in trouble if you shot something longer that one minute in one take.
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