Jamie Frazer Noakes

A seller in Japan has seen an opportunity.... What do you think of the price? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Super-8mm-Style-Digital-Camera-with-Interchangeable-Lenses-is-Coming-ao-/310910194278?pt=Digital_Cameras&hash=item4863b11266

Hi all. Has anyone else experienced problems with Adox Pan-X Reverso? It is a 100 daylight stock, but appears to be notched as 64D/100T. This is very strange, as it renders the film useless in some super 8 cameras. I was shooting some in my Nizo 156 macro - a great travel camera. I realised after I'd shot the roll that the cart was pushing down the one and only notch sensing pin on the camera, meaning that the film was treated as 40ASA. Just over one f-stop overexposed. Now, the Nizo does 100D brilliantly, if the cart is notched as 100D that is! I had to cut a new notch with some pliers - oh and here's a tip be careful doing this as the GK film cart (which the Adox is loaded in) comes apart real easy! I nearly pulled one apart just taking off a piece from the notch. This never happened with Kodak carts! I would like to shoot Adox in my Canon AF 514 XL-S too, but I think I will have the same problem there. Another camera that does 100D brilliantly, but not if it is notched as 64D/100T.... Anyone else?

The seller is a very good man called Micheal Bigaj. I have been buying cameras from him for years. He NEVER sells any camera through any of his webshops that have not been fully tested. If you have a problem there is a 30 day money back guaranty and 90 warranty. You just send the camera back for repair, exchange or refund. No issues whatsoever. All his Nizo cameras are serviced, other models when possible. Go ahead and buy!

Scot DiLalla shot his feature "I am ZoZo" using Canon 1014xl-s cameras with (home made - I think) blimps. So 814xl-s cameras would also be a good choice.

Hi Patrick, was my answer of no use?

Well Heikki, you have a point, but it only makes sense if you shoot 16, and l don't. This is super 8, and as far as this format is concerned colour reversal preloaded cartridges are no longer affordable. I will shoot b/w for as long as l can for work l want to project, and shoot colour neg when required for projects that will be edited digitally.

This is a bummer - it seems like Colour Reversal Super 8 is already out of reach to many. The prices on the Wittner website have rocketed in the past few weeks to silly prices. Most resellers are only selling process paid - which is understandable as they want to keep their business alive - but compared to prices this time last year a roll of colour reversal super 8 now costs nearly 3 times as much for your initial outlay before shooting. This is quite prohibitive.

I have shot loads of Tri-X in super 8 cameras rated at 160asa and the 1/3rd of a stop overexposure is negligible. You will only encounter issues in bright sunlight, but then Tri-X is the wrong stock for that situation anyway - unless you want that effect. I have only had Tri-X "pushed" (more exposure) by half a stop - but this was only on old stock - it does indeed flatten the contrast - but if you are transferring to digital this can be a good thing as a slightly flatter contrast can yield better results when scanned to video - since many telecine lenses add contrast to your already contrasty reversal film images. I just got a roll of 7 year old Tri-X back yesterday - I exposed it as 160asa - wide open at f1,4 and shot at 9fps (for effect) - I had this film pushed by half a stop and it looks great (for what I want anyway). It is always best to shoot a test roll before you shoot any important work.

There are quite a few, too many for me to make a list here now- you just need to keep looking - there are many on vimeo. The probelm is that you are expecting people to give away things for free - by publishing hard work on youtube or vimeo for free - most people keep this work for festivals - test rolls etc are freebies.

I am only guessing here Alessandro, but I think he is referring to the current high costs of shooting colour reversal. On average you will need to pay twice as much for 100D now in comparision with the prices this time last year. Most places are selling colour reversal stock as process paid only. That said both Tri-X and Kodak's Vision 3 stocks have increased in price too. With repackaged reversal stock, Wittner currently have the corner of the market and are charging high prices for the privillage of shooting colour reversal super 8.

I have to add that technically Velvia 50D from Wittner is notched as 50D - HOWEVER - you do need the follow the advice written on the pacakging (yes, it's in Greman) which is to manually remove the colour conversion filter so that the filter switch is at the "bulb" setting, and then you will get the 40 ASA rating.

I have to disagre, to refer to the super 8 format as the crappiest means that the other formats are crap too. It really depends on how you shoot it and for what application. If you want the super 8 feel for a project, then that is what you need to use. Therefore it is not crap. It reslly comes down to this - do you want slightly cheaper 16, or do you want super 8?

That kind of "advice" will fall on deaf ears (Thankfully). Bill already shoots all formats, but like me he will shoot super 8 until there is no more of it. Super 8 is what it is, but is most definately not the crappiest of all formats!

Remember the daylight value of 25 was for Kodachrome 40 which was a tungsten balanced film that was rated at 25 in daylight with the 85a filter in place - for a daylight balanced stock it will need the 40 Tungsten setting as the 85a filter is not needed.

With Kodak negative film, overexposing it by at least one stop gives a better look. Exposing it as 160 is fine too, even though this is only a third of a stop overexposure. I would be careful not to overexpose reversal film, it is best exposed at box speed.

I think 50D will be exposed as 40 as you should remove the colour conversion filter (if it does not have the filter sensing pin with automatic removeal of the filter) and thus have the "tungsten" setting rated at 40, and as this is daylight balanced stock you will be fine.

Have you engaged the masterswitch? It is a long thin black button on the rear of the handgrip it needs to be locked in he down position to operate he camera

That is Dutch! You can download the English manual here www.super8arena.com look for the section "manuals" scroll down and you'll find the Nizo 6080

We have many myths and legends here, the most famous is that of the great lake monster!

Hi Joerg! I am interested in this project! I have sent younan email! (hope you got it?) Thanks for the tip Bill!

Well it works better on different cameras. The results l get with my Canon 1014 xls are very good and there is improved resolution when you get an HD scan. The extra space l get makes a a difference.

No. I have a Canon 1014xl-s with a widened gate and the lens has not been repositioned - it is unecessary - the center of the frame is now just slightly to the right and the right hand edge of the fame in the viewfinder is good for lining up the edge of the actual frame - you just have to imagine an extra couple of mm to the right. Of course if you are not happy shooting this way and want to know where the caneter is then yes, have the lens realligned - BUT you will still not see the WHOLE image area that you will get.