Ray Lavers

When I was in the Concordia program Martin Duckworth suggested a puck rock way of doing it. Duct taping many of those glove warming pads to the camera . They work quite well. (this sort of thing. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Little-Hotties-Hand-Warmers-biodegradable/dp/B001GFT6EE ) - You really have to listen to the camera to ensure it's running at the proper speed. If it's not you'll get a over-cranked and over exposed image. - You should keep your film stock warm because there can be a slight color shift if it's too cold . You can just check the website for the information. - The lenses will fog up if you go between extreme temperatures. Have fun and don't die.

Hey I was wondering since the weird Flange distance on the 18mm Prime from the Red lens kit ( Not compatible with the Alexa or c300) Has anyone tried this lens on the Sony F3.

thanks Phil that video confirmed my suspicions of using cinestyle with a lut. I've been using Red Giant's denoiser to compensate for the added noise. In the end there is a bit of sharpness loss.

I'm pretty good with AE just not 3d studio max. Thanks though.

The Faux 3d has an interesting look to it .. How cold I achieve this? meaning what program or plug-in should I use ?. I'm terrible when it comes to 3d studio max. AE , FCP motion is more my jam. Also if it was done in 2d. It looks as if they did a blank slate because the actors seem to pop out.

Hey people, Thanks a ton for getting back to me so quickly. By cone I didn't explain properly I made that term up myself haha. I mean when a practical makes a nice line up the wall. It happends naturally however I feel like their must be a way of exaggerating the effect. This is a photo from Gregory Crewdson (not a painting). Maybe if i ND the lamp shade with a stronger bulb perhaps I I could achieve a similar effect. I was just curios if there were any specific method that works best. I was thinking of trying some straw maybe to get a good yellowish backlight. As for moon light, the steel blue isn't bad. I want to stay away from CTB because, it just looks like a ctb gel. Ray

I'm shooting some interior night stuff in a living space. Using lamps as practicals is there a particular bulb I should use to get that cone effect to come out, without blowing out the lamp shade? Also when faking the practical light, what gel is best to use to get that nice yellow tinge? I'm using tungsten balanced fresnal source to fake it. When doing moonlight are there any good gels or gel combinations to use? I'm using an HMI source. I have hear of mixing CTB with green. I'm pretty stressed any help would be much appreciated. Ray

when you say "tent out". Do you mean setting a light outside making a tent around it to the window blocking the daylight?

a DP i worked with used lenses from reading glasses and played with them close to the lens .. It had that look

Yep I'm going through a DI , However I'm referring to the end of the process when I conform my DPX and do my final grade with a colorist at Technicolor.

Hey guys I appreciate all the answers, thankfully I was told that in the bolex I was using, it has 2 setting for the filter. I assumed that the 85 was in but actually it wasn't, It was in the standby position . So really I just screwed up on the bolex viewfinder compensation . Nothing a little DI won't fix.

yeah your right.. It's almost like I'll have to add color to my shadows. or change the look completely. It's a Low key boxing scene. All backlit and top lit with many Diva 400's hanging from a grid... I guess we will see what happens. Thanks David for the heads up. PS are you looking for an Intern?

So I was shooting all my none sync stuff on a Motorize Bolex with a lens adapter for Nikon Lenses I had forgotten about the the compensation needed for the viewfinder 1/3 of a stop. The next Day my AC pulls out an 85 filter in the filter holder. Which is 2/3's of a stop. Now I'm underexposed for all my Bolex stuff for 1 stop My stock is 500t Vision 3 7219 I have some free time with a colorist from Technicolor, I was wondering should I get them to fix it or push it all one stop in development. Thanks, Ray