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Trevor Jahner

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  1. So after researching this on the web for a few hours I'm still lost as to what lenses can be used on an H8 REX. Bolex Collector seems to say that only the H8 RX Kern lenses will work, along with the Vario Switar zooms 36 and 36EE. I've also seen some on eBay with Som Berthiot zooms and Pan Cinor 40 zooms, but I'm not sure whether these are suitable. Bolex collector also says that other c mount lenses won't seem to work because of the 15.305 flange focal distance (shorter than 16mm c mount ffds) and issues with the beam splitter prism in the reflex viewing system, with the exception of longer focal length lenses. Taking all that into account I'm wondering if there are any other options than the H8 RX primes and the two zooms mentioned on Bolex Collector. The obvious choices seem to be Wollensak c mounts or Som Berthiot c mounts (are these of comparable quality to the Kerns?). Are there any simple conversions that would work, for instance a d mount to c mount conversion ring? I'm guessing most conversion rings wouldn't be ideal due to beam splitter issue. In any case if anyone has experience using non-Kern H8 RX lenses and can offer advice or generally provide a more comprehensive vision than the one I've pieced together on the web it would be much appreciated. It would be nice to know what options there are besides the H8 RX as these seem to be slightly rare and pricey compared to some of the other c mounts. Thanks! Trevor
  2. Just bought a CP16R with a battery I'm recelling but Digikey doesn't carry the parts anymore. Any other distributors that carry the pack of 8 AAs spot welded together?
  3. yeah I was actually going to process it myself, so I would avoid the whole lab problem thing. In case I wasn't clear, I'm open to suggestions as to how to do this, I was just giving the only way I could think of to do this. Thanks again!
  4. Hi Just wanted to know if anyone has any experience hand processing 7219 as black and white (or extremely desaturated color, maybe skip bleach?). I'm more or less lost but my first instinct is to cross process in black and white chemicals that are heated up to deal with the more robust color emulsion or develop longer in the b&w chemicals. I'm not sure how the developer will work though, especially considering color has three layers in the emulsion. I'm also wondering if this is even worth it because I want to shoot black and white but want a low light stock. If I had to overexpose in shooting or push the stock in processing it wouldn't really give me more options than just using TRI-X. My goal is to have the fastest stock I can but still have the image in black and white or close. Thanks!
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